Alarm Interchangeability?

[CitTone]

Could someone with the EPC please advise if the alarm module changed between 2003 and the end of "old" 9-5 production?

[collywobble]

Part numbers from my copy of the EPC which only goes to 2006.

2001 to 2003 (to Chassis no. 13029215) part no. 5039086 - NLS use 12765560

2003 to 2005 (Chassis no. 13029216 on) part no. 5264809 - NLS use 12765560

2006 part no. 12765200

I have always understood that part numbers changed when the item was purchased from a different supplier or possibly in the case of the alarm siren when the screwed together version was changed to the cheaper to manufacture welded together version.

I would talk to someone like Damone at Sidmaster who is an expert on alarm sirens.

The cost accountants of the world have now turned their attention to the processed food and ready meal industry - horse burger anybody?

[sgould]

I think that they are all interchangeable.  My parts list is slightly different and goes to 2010. But it shows them all as being superseded by the latest unit 12767820


Article : Siren
PartNo : 5039086
Usage : 2001, NLS-USE 12767820
Ch. --13029215
Order Quantity : 1



Article : Siren
PartNo : 12765560
Usage : 2001-2005, (5264809), NLS-USE 12767820
Ch. 13029216--
Order Quantity : 1


Article : Siren
PartNo : 12765200
Usage : 2006-2010, NLS-USE 12767820
Order Quantity : 1

[CitTone]

Ta, both.

Apparently, despite differing part numbers, Horse and Cow are interchangeable in lasagne.

Incidentally, having just removed my alarm, I would like to offer the following advice to others about to undertake the same task :

1. Anyone who says you can do it without taking the wheel off must have much smaller hands than mine. Not recommended - bite the bullet, take the damned wheel off and put the car on an axle stand. You'll save time in the end.
2. WIS for my year of car (2003) indicates that the arch front liner is held in at three points - rear of the front skirt (10mm hex head screw), 2/3rds of the way up the outer edge (Torx20 screw), and directly above the wheel (10mm hex nut). BUT - There are also two 8mm hex screws on the inner face of the liner, ahead of and obscured by the wheel. These are inevitably tricky to see or remove with the wheel in place!
3. Once you have the liner adequately released, it is worth noting that the top mounting of the alarm box is a 10mm nut on a long stud. Use a deep socket if you have one, as access for a spanner is a bu99er, and a standard socket bottoms-out on the end of the stud.
4. Release the alarm from the wing before attempting to detach the electrical connector - it is a latching type that needs the red slider cap to be levered up with a small flat-bladed screwdriver. This is much easier when you can actually see what you are doing, and have the alarm at a convenient angle.
5. Don't forget to put the lower 10mm alarm mounting screw back in before re-attaching the liner.
6. Use the torch, Luke...it's dark under there

This public-information announcement has been brought to you by the Department of Skinned Knuckles.

[sgould]

Never done mine.  Garage did it.  That was way back before Simon and Damone were available.

But I've seen two done, and on both the stud on the liner sheared off.  So well done!!

[Audax]

But I've seen two done, and on both the stud on the liner sheared off.  So well done!!

I don't think I've ever known the stud on the liner to not shear off! it always got replaced with a stainless self tapping screw. I'd also not bother with trying to not remove the wheel, it must be way quicker to remove the wheel if you're doing this both on the ground or on a lift.

[collywobble]

But I've seen two done, and on both the stud on the liner sheared off.  So well done!!

I sheared the plastic nut off on mine and also broke the red locking clip on the connector which is probably why I still get an intermittent 'Service Theft Alarm' message come up! 

[collywobble]

As a slightly off-topic comment I note from the photo attached to CiTone's second post in this topic that he uses one of those telescopic wheel braces (I bought mine from Lidl's) that have the socket at about 45 degrees to the handle. If you see my recent post about locking wheel nuts it is one of these wheel braces that was responsible for me destroying the locking wheel nut key for my car! When you apply a lot of force using one of these wheel braces and combined with the limited contact area of the locking wheel nut key it tends to only touch the locking wheel nut on one side and result = useless locking wheel nut key!

I have now invested in a 600mm breaker bar plus a 17mm impact socket and 4 new plain wheel nuts!

[CitTone]

Well, previous owner had disposed of the locking nuts, and I've not yet had a problem with the sliding brace, though I would be happier if the angle was a bit closer to 90 degrees than it is - it would certainly feed the effort in more efficiently.

I think the liner fixings came off easily because my indie replaced a leaky pipe on the washer reservoir for the MoT-before-last.

[collywobble]

I am dispensing with the locking nuts too - the other problem I have with that wheel brace is that the little pin that stops the extension handle from sliding off has now been lost for ever!

[CitTone]

After a bit of a hunt around, there are no suitably-priced alarms from breakers at the mo, so off to Damone it goes!

I had hoped to pick up an older (screw-top) alarm and do the capacitors and batteries myself, as the one I've just taken out is the glued version and I don't fancy my chances of getting it apart without damage, but the breakers all seem to want about £40 for them, with no guarantee that they are any use. Add £30 for the refurbishing components, lots of burnt fingers and epoxying the box to the kitchen table, and Damone's rebuild wins hands-down.

[CitTone]

....and back it came - with silicone sealant under the lid and screws holding it together. If I still have the car in 10 years' time, when the batteries go again, I'll appreciate that touch!

Now all I need is a dry weekend.