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Messages - AdvancedRoadcraft

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1
Classic Saab 9-3 & GM900 (MY 1994-2002/03CV) / Ave atque vale
« on: 12 June 2013, 11:28:10 PM »
Thanks for the input, chaps.  I've (rather reluctantly) decided that as an auto replacement for 'my' 9-3 (in whatever configuration) would be too emotional a direct comparison, I'm going to go down a totally different route.  I've bought a Range Rover.

Thanks for the help over the years; it's been much appreciated.

Best, B

2
Thanks to all who have responded so far; more thoughts would be welcomed.

Don't worry - suspension/handling/braking would all receive attention (both refresh and improve) before going forward with power increases; that's the way my current 9-3 Manual was approached and I'd go down a similar route with the proposed Auto.  I'm fairly well versed in how to improve the handling and how to get the increased power; was just unsure how much the auto box could take.

Seems, though, that the auto box (at least if not abused) could take the sort of power and torque that would keep me happy.  I'm not a "Traffic Light Grand Prix" kinda guy - but I do like my mid-range brisk overtakes!  (Saabnoob's point about using the gear shift rather than the kick-down was a good thought in particular.)

Thanks again, chaps.

3
Have just sold my beloved 9-3 (back to the chap I bought it from 5 1/2 years ago, would you believe!) because neuropathy in the left foot means that I should no longer really be trying to control a manual.

It was running at about 275 bhp so that's what I'm used to the feel of, have got used to and enjoy using.

So...my question is if I buy an auto 9-3 (I just love them) as a replacement, how far dare I go without compromising reliability/longevity too much?

Real life experiences particularly welcome - but 'hypotheticals' from experts also useful!

thanks in advance, B

4
And (although the 'coincidence' of both failing together makes this unlikely) I found that mine were simply physically gummed-up.

Solution: knock off the plastic shroud, remove all the dead leaves, spiders' webs and general crud from inside then spray the 'ball joint' and surround with loads of WD40 and work that joint by hand vigorously up/down/left/right and around & around through 360* to its fullest extent several times.

Worked for me!  (And saved me the cost of the motors and switches I had been quoted for.)

5
Bought a 2nd hand one (no new ones available) from Neo's.  Arrived this morning and 'looks like' brand new: no corrosion; original black paint unmarked.  Will be fitted next week when it goes i for its MOT.

Thanks again to all who replied, B

6
Thanks, chaps!  Approptiate fluid ordered; now all I have to do is worry why the level is falling (albeit very slowly).

Best, B

7
What is the PAS fluid, please?

9
Now that Saab's own fully synthetic gearbox oil is no longer available (unless you know different?) what is the best equivalent?

If anybody knows what the Saab one really was (as I'm pretty sure that they didn't refine their own ;-)) I'd be really pleased to know that, as I hate topping up with different oils from what's in there already.

Alternatively, I'll drain, flush and refill with new stuff if I have to - and then stay consistent with that in the future.

Any and all advice appreciated, B

10

However, the alloys are even cheaper here: http://www.saabpartsonline.co.uk/index.asp?function=search

Sod's Law: that deal (& I do think that it is an exceptionally good one) came up  after I'd sourced two separate matching pairs of second hand wheels, driven to collect them, taken them into the wheel refurbisher, bought four winter tyres and paid the charges to have them mounted, balanced and fitted.  Best part of a month of faff and a total cost of?...
>
>
>
>
>
>
...the thick end of a grand!

Grab the Saab City deal!

Best, B

11
In the past I've always assumed that the tyres with most tread go onto the driven wheels, but I'm sure I've heard somewhere that the reverse is better.

Should the tyres with the most tread go onto the front or the rear wheels? (This is for my 9-5TiD so front wheel drive).

Depends whether you want to slide off the road front end first, sideways or backwards. ;)

Not as sarcastic as it sounds.  Rear wheel slides are more common - but are frequently minor and many drivers can (perhaps with a little training or practice) correct them; when the front wheels "let go" it tends to be more sudden, serious and harder to deal with.

Best (& hoping we all keep the "dirty side down" this winter, B

12
On many cars the culprit can be the connections under the front seats (the airbag has to know whether the seat's occupied, I think the connection's for a sensor, IIRC).  With the seat being moved back and forth the connection can come loose, and trip the warning.  That's the first place I'd look. 


Malcolm

That's exactly what it was...thanks!

(I should have guessed it myself as I had winced when the two animals I had to transport last weekend pulled/pushed/wrenced the front seats about while trying to get their overweight carcasses into the back!)

Many thanks, B

13
Classic Saab 9-3 & GM900 (MY 1994-2002/03CV) / Re: wheel resprays
« on: 17 October 2011, 12:24:29 AM »
Just had the "Viking" wheels on my black 9-3 Coupe refinished by Pristine in anthracite.

I think that they look great (& it was a first class job)...but then it did cost the thick end of £100 per wheel (inc. dismounting, removing tyres, replacing, new valves & balancing).

Best, B

14
Classic Saab 9-3 & GM900 (MY 1994-2002/03CV) / Airbag warning light on
« on: 17 October 2011, 12:16:45 AM »
Handbook says that the light on means that the airbag "might" not offer protection and car should go to main dealer for attention.

What can go wrong with an airbag that has never deployed?

Thoughts, please,.

Best, B

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