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31
Thinking a little more, it might be worth taking readings from the ECU before you fill up.

You'll have two data points that way

When it stops raining  ;)
32
Carves with GoodYear Vector 4 seasons off and cleaned and stored.

Turbines with GoodYear Eagle F1, all clean, back on.
33
8-9k at most.  2.0 didn't come with Drivesense as standard.  And like mine, the lack of the top end audio is a bit of a let down....
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I think I'll try the ECU once it's refuelled.  I got the new battery fitted.  Now it's raining again...
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Off-topic chat, Help, Advice, General motoring issues / Re: Peeling lacquer
« Last post by sgould on 21 April 2024, 12:03:16 PM »
Take the bumper off.  Rub it down and start again with a primer.  If you just try and replace the lacquer, it will still look odd.  You really need a key for the lacquer, and if you rub down the black, it will look like it.  A fresh coat of black with the lacquer a few minutes later without rubbing down.
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Off-topic chat, Help, Advice, General motoring issues / Peeling lacquer
« Last post by Steve McF on 21 April 2024, 10:55:41 AM »
Hi all, so after restoring the headlights on my son's Ford Focus estate that is patiently sitting in the garage waiting to be fully recommissioned before going for MOT, I want to have a go at fixing the horrendous lacquer peel on a large area of the front bumper.

The lacquer has come off a large area on the left side, but there are other areas where it has bubbled but not come off. I need to get all this off and rub down what is left before re-lacquering.

However, what is the best way to get all the loose stuff off back to the good lacquer without damaging the base coat? Someone suggested jet wash but I'm a bit wary.
37
I have looked again at WIS and the wiring diagrams.

Connector H10-3 "should" be visible and possibly testable, depending on location.

While searching for a photo or something to assist, I came across this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5eOlhrC-gM which may be of interest. At least it doesn't have images of the rear seat floor being cut to get access to the pump. Final comment may be of interest.

Perhaps the best route forward is to fill the car up again (to replicate the problem) and then measure the readings at the ECU connector. At least that will be accessible which will allow you to get a reading for both sensors.

Interesting that the EU and US markets appear to have the rheostat wiring reversed (if you believe WIS). Intuitively it seems NG9-3 is incomplete, the NG9-5 is considerably worse, I can't even find preload settings for the TTiD turbo, which is something I may do a thread on later

38
There is supposed to be an accessible connector in front of the tank.  That’s my only hope for a DIY diagnosis.  Once (if) I have pinned down which sensor is damaged, I’ll probably get the garage to fix it.  It’s due a service/MOT by the end of June and they will be around the back of the car as the rear Haldex is due a service and clean out.

New battery this morning.  Halfords were closed by the time I got there, due to a road closure, diversion and subsequent traffic jam.
39
, and it showed that a lot of the plastics are now very brittle. 

That reminds me of testing for current on the auto gearbox on the 9-5. I have found that with some WD40 and the right size screwdriver in the groove at the top of the red securing clip these connections do usually give in to gentle persuasion.

I suppose the alternative is to measure the values at the ECU.... but of course if there is a problem, you then need to disagnose where, and while you really don't want it to be in the loom, the alternative seems to be a tank out job
40
are yes the good old H24 or H42 connector,designation dependant on MY..
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