CPS change

[sgould]

The 9-5 failed to start after a short drive to town and a tour of the supermarket.  Looks like a new CPS is on the cards.  I've had a spare one ready for a few years now.  Not sure about the access with the 3 inch Hirsch exhaust. We will see tomorrow.

[phoenix]

Don't even think twice about it. Drop the front section of the exhaust away from the turbo. The few minutes that takes will be more than repaid with ease of access to the sensor. Been there, done that...

[sgould]

Thanks for that.  Decided to work my way in and check some other bits.  Finally got the CPS connector separated.  PS reads 884Ω which is pretty much spot on, but now I'm this far, and with the symptoms, I'll change it anyway.

Nearly got the exhaust off.  Nuts were finger tight!!

[carrera]

I did mine on the floor. After messing around working from the top it was much easier getting my hand in from the bottom.

By all means jack the left front wheel up, that'll make it easier.

The long torx bits I have proved quite helpful

[fka]

I managed mine with a 3" downpipe without removing anything. Worked from the top too but it was a bit fiddly. Less so than the OG9-3 though!

[sgould]

Didn't finish today.  I got a Torx bit on it, but it was with my small ratchet and I couldn't get enough leverage. Need a rethink.

Additionally, I have decided to strip other bits and chase the fuel smell, as well, while the weather looks reasonable.  And then I got a call to say that some click and collect stuff for the house was ready, so I packed up and went to fetch that.

Tomorrow is another day!

[fka]

Tomorrow is another day!

And a fair looking day it is too!

[sgould]

Well, I've given up on the CPS  

I got the Torx on the screwbut it was too tight.   I managed to slacken the exhaust.  But the Hirsch exhaust wont come off completely without a bit more work.  The flange is unbolted but I can't move the exhaust clear of the studs on the turbo. The sports cat hits the gearbox.  Ideally I would remove the studs, but the bottom one is pretty inaccessible The studs have a small Torx end but I don't have any tools that small.  To add to this, not only were the top screws on the exhaust flange finger tight, the bottom one was cross threaded...

There was enough slack for me to get the spanner on the CPS better, but the screw won't move.  I had about a 12 inch lever on it, but no go.  If it breaks, the car will be stuck on the drive


I carried on chasing the fuel smell which started last year after I had changed the non-return valve in the EVAP pipe.  It went to Joe to have a look and he found that the valve I fitted wasn't sealing properly, he fitted a proper Saab valve, but the smell still lingered.   Today I thought that I would check the EVAP pipe for leaks, the first thing was to blow through the pipe.  At which point I found that the Saab valve works in the reverse direction to the flow arrow.  Very confusing - and wrong.

I'll have a chat with Joe on Monday and arrange to sort it all out.

[carrera]

I have done two CPS recently.

I didn't need more than a 3/8 ratchet, my bits fit in a 10mm socket. Did you soak in plusgas / hit head with hammer?

On the EVAP I have done 3 or 4, early type. The valves should allow evap pressure to the inlet manifold or the cobra direction. I have seen partial failure where the nipple is not quite severed so sometimes the valve seems to stop flow in the wrong direction.

[sgould]

I've banged things and soaked them in plus gas.  I can get the wrench back on with the exhaust back in place now.  Maybe one more go tomorrow after another night of soaking.  My Torx bits are 1/4 inch hex.  I have a small ratchet and an extension piece from various electric drills and tool boxes. These fit.  The Torx bit in my 3/8" drive set just won't fit properly, either too short, or with the small extension, a bit too long.

The small ratchet and the improvised "breaker bar" in photos.

[carrera]

I find that I have decent success with the chunkier bits, something like this

Not sure about the quality here though. The set I bought from Biltema 23 years ago are just about as good as Snap-On, which I discovered with a particularly difficult pair of cylinder heads. Ended up drilling the heads on the bolts in that case after twisting the Snap-On bits as well



https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/streetwize-15pcs-torx-bit-set-553770860

[sgould]

I’ll mull on those! I’ll see what Joe has to say when I speak to him.  If he can do it as a “drop-in”job, I’ll take it down.  Otherwise I may invest in tools (again!).

It’s the one good thing about high labour costs at garages, it’s usually cheaper to buy all the special tools you need for DIY, even if it’s a one off job.

[fka]

It’s the one good thing about high labour costs at garages, it’s usually cheaper to buy all the special tools you need for DIY, even if it’s a one off job.

This is the conclusion I came to over the top mounts.

I have  set of these male torx sockets although mine are 8 piece. I've got standard and tamper proof types..
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-6-piece-torx-bit-socket-rail-3%2F8in-168419.html

[sgould]

I've got lots of tool options, but I can't find a 3/8" or 1/2" drive combination that's the right length.  It needs to be long enough to get beyond the engine, but short enough to avoid hitting the 3 inch exhaust.  It might be that a short 1/2" will fit, rather than the smaller stuff with various extensions.  I must try that later.  Screwfix have a set of 10mm Torx bits.  They are 5 mins down the road, next to Toolstation.  Euro Car Parts are 15 mins away.  Machine Mart are 30 mins

Things may go on hold this week.  It's my birthday on Tuesday and OH & I are having a "nice lunch" up the road. Then the family are coming down to repeat that experience at the weekend.   But I might buy the tools as a present to myself!!

[fka]

It’s the one good thing about high labour costs at garages, it’s usually cheaper to buy all the special tools you need for DIY, even if it’s a one off job.

I misread this - In the case of my top mounts, it was actually about the same, once I'd factored a decent set of spring compressors and the cut-out socket for the top nut on the strut. Then if I add in my time, it becomes far cheaper to pay for someone to do it..