Messages

1

Off-topic chat, Help, Advice, General motoring issues / Re: What I Did To My Saab Today.

« on: 08 July 2023, 01:04:06 PM »

Finally managed to repair tilt/turn actuator in the passenger side mirror. The wee nylon linear gears had worn down so mirror would tilt down for reverse parking but not come back up without a shove. Have a car with memory function so didn't fancy dropping ?120+ on a replacement unit, bought the standard actuator and dismantled it to get the bits & bobs I needed and swapped them with the ones fitted to the mirror on the car.

W

2

Off-topic chat, Help, Advice, General motoring issues / Re: Old Toshiba laptop won't boot up!!

« on: 23 February 2023, 11:15:59 AM »

Get a version Linux that will run on a thumb drive and boot that, you will need to get into the BIOS (hold F2 as you power on) and change the boot drive priority, if it boots from the thumb drive that way you can see if the old HDD is still alive. Puppy Linux is one that I use for coaxing old systems back to life.

NB Creating the bootable USB thumb drive will wipe anything that is on that thumb drive

W

3

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: high beam not staying on

« on: 19 February 2023, 06:20:22 PM »

Just circling back on this in case it helps someone else. Problem was connection between DICE pin 11 & pin 2 on relay 8a, refer to circuit schematic in previous post. Tested with jumper cable between the two points and then wired in, routed through the bulkhead/firewall via the grommet behind the glove box. Weird thing is no trouble codes were showing

Cheers all

W

4

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: high beam not staying on

« on: 12 March 2022, 08:54:58 AM »

this is getting infuriating

relay is fine: checked by energising coil direct from battery, swapped with dipped beam relay and dipped works fine, high beam still not staying on

with relay removed, pull stalk for high beam, voltage to switch relay can be measured with voltmeter, and is there until the stalk is pulled again, removed stalk and operated using a jumper wire, tapping to connect pin 5 to pin 6, with relay removed same response as when stalk is in place - tap to switch shows the voltage, tap again voltage drops

all fuses are fine and there is continuity from the relay, via the correct fuses to pin 2 on each headlamp

opcom reader not currently showing any codes, there is a local guy with Tech2 so will get him to take a look

5

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: high beam not staying on

« on: 11 February 2022, 08:52:49 PM »

wow, thanks for all of that

will take a poke around tomorrow, in between the showers that are forecast

is there a easy way of accessing the underside of the relay box to check connections, cabling etc.?

W

6

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: high beam not staying on

« on: 10 February 2022, 02:30:41 PM »

no orange relay and no connections at FR1 to take a relay

7

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: high beam not staying on

« on: 09 February 2022, 08:14:18 PM »

dipped and high beam relays are the same part #, swapped them over, dipped beam is still functioning fine and main beam still giving the same problem,

with the relay in place, when the high beam function of the stalk is operated can hear the clunk as it closes and immediately opens again

with the relays removed, and operating the switches, dipped beam relay is reading 11.5V and high beam relay is @ 10.5V when energised and staying at that till the stalk is pulled again to switch off, guess I need to dig a little deeper

8

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / high beam not staying on

« on: 08 February 2022, 08:02:04 PM »

Hi all

2008 9-5 aero estate

high beam will not stay on, I can flash and keep high beam on if I hold the indicator stalk pulled up toward the steering wheel but goes off as soon as it is released, related fuses all look fine, I guess relays are the next place to look/swap out

any suggestions appreciated

W

9

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: rough running, CEL & P1312

« on: 19 June 2021, 10:25:37 AM »

further to this

NGK says not to use anti-seize

WIS says use it

10

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: rough running, CEL & P1312

« on: 19 June 2021, 09:43:37 AM »

As ever, encyclopaedic knowledge

Thanks for the further advice on switching out the plugs. I did order a new set with the DIC, but for the life of me can't find my gauge to check the gap before they go in

11

Saab 9-3 Sport Saloon / Convertible / Combi (Wagon/Estate) / Turbo X / AWD (2003 on) / Re: Rear lamp lens come loose again!!

« on: 19 June 2021, 09:27:21 AM »

Is it this?

 Quite a lot of solvent in that, plastics in light clusters and organic solvents don't mix. The transparent part of the cluster is most likely polycarbonate, the interior/structural part either polypropylene or nylon with chopped glass filler. The date stamps/coding from the moulding process often indicates the material type.

The solvent in the glue won't dissolve the plastic but can cause swelling. A solvent free 2-part epoxy/ araldite would be a better bet

12

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: rough running, CEL & P1312

« on: 14 June 2021, 07:08:04 PM »

Crack exactly like the one in the photo in the section of the DIC above cylinders 3 & 4. A new one is on the way

13

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / rough running, CEL & P1312

« on: 14 June 2021, 01:36:18 PM »

Hi all

this happened to me yesterday afternoon (2008 Aero Estate), third journey that I was having to make after being out in the morning. Very sluggish and unresponsive, needing to go hard on the accelerator to get moving. Pulled over, engine didn't sound right clearly missing, stopped and only on restarting did CEL come on. Cheapo code reader came up with P1312 which WIS is telling me is "Combustion detection cylinder 1+2, open circuit / short to B+" - clearing the code worked briefly but came back so abandoned my journey and crawled home.

I guess I need to pull the plugs on cylinders 1 and 2 to see what state they are in, not done many miles since they were last changed - only the weekly grocery run and occasional trips to the dump, all less than 5 miles. Reading here and elsewhere that code could indicated that the DIC is on it's way out so will have a close look at that - anything in particular I should look out for, cracks etc.

the other thing that is troubling me is when I was out earlier yesterday morning, on leaving the house was sure that the gauge showed I had ~1/4 of a tank. After a journey of some 5/6 miles it was well into the red and the fuel light was on. Not wanting to risk it and knowing I was going to be using the car again later in the day I filled up from a place I wouldn't usually use, with 95 rather than the usual 99, because that is all they had. Coincidence ? I expect if it were missing due to that if that there would be another/different DTC showing.

cheers

W

14

Off-topic chat, Help, Advice, General motoring issues / Re: Component repair of house alarm box

« on: 13 February 2021, 04:36:19 PM »

It's in with a bunch of diodes, 4 diodes suggests a rectifier, capacitors & inductors are used to smooth rectifier output

Coil symbol ~ inductor

If you do remove it the marking on the PCB will help with ID process

15

Off-topic chat, Help, Advice, General motoring issues / Re: Getting recorded programmes off an old Sky HD box

« on: 18 November 2020, 09:17:32 PM »

Have a look for expvr via your preferred search engine

It can extract *some* recordings to .TS/MPEG but only stuff that's not encrypted

You still need your sky sub to keep the encrypted stuff, have used expvr to port between sky+ boxes/drives but not Q