refugee from saabscene - starter motor "grinding" noise

[chris b]

Hi,
whatever happened to saabscene?  Awful spam and ads.   Thanks for whoever put up the sticky about moving...  I hope we can make this site as good as saabscene was.....

Anyway - back to topic.  Just got (another) '97 9000 CSE.   It has a few niggles which I'm sorting through slowly.  The biggest is to do with the starter motor.  When you start, there is an awful demented coffee grinder sound after the engine catches.  It lasts for around 3 secs.  I guess the starter gear is disengaging too slowly.  Is the starter motor easy to change?  I read the Haynes manual and am non the wiser.  Can't even find the thing yet.  Any advice gratefully received.

 

[Paul @ Kippen]

Chris B,

Fairly straightforward to change the starter.  It lives down the back of the engine at the gearbox end.  I seem to remember that it has 3 retaining bolts -  not counting the electrical connections.  Best to start by disconnecting the battery.  Then whip off the ignition controlled wire to the solenoid then the heavy connector that runs directly to the battery.

The 3 bolts are a bit fiddly to get at and at least 1 is an 18mm.  After you get them out you need to juggle things about a bit to get it out.

Paul @ Kippen

[chris b]

Thanks Paul,

will give it go this weekend if it stops raining!

Chris

[Max Headroom]

Hello Chris - welcome aboard! 

[millster]

I'll say I'm glad to have found this forum.  I came in at the tail-end of the SS conversion and wasn't pleased. So, glad you're over here now too.

Anyway, having just done the clutch in my car I can say that the starter isn't going to be TOO bad but it won't be fun.  Easiest access is, by far, from the top of the engine.  One 18mm bolt that goes through the gearbox, one nut on the back side of the starter (the size escapes me) and then the wires.  My car had a wire that ran to the battery and one that ran to the alternator thus locking the starter into its original position via cables.  The battery end comes off at the terminal block on the back of the battery box, as I recall.  Also, the bracket for the speedometer output is bolted to the starter.  It shouldn't give you much trouble, but be mindful of it.  I nearly yanked it apart.  Thankfully, mine had a rather large piece of disintegrated clutch disk and a healthy dose of powder from said disk so a good cleaning brought it back into line.

[chris b]

Many thanks.  It looks reasonably buried away and I see what you mean about the wires.  Did you try getting to it from below?  I thought of jacking the car and putting it on stands, and trying to get it out that way. 

[millster]

Yes.  It's definitely down in there. 
I had the car up on stands and to be honest, it didn't seem any easier to get at from the bottom.  You have the catalytic converter that likes to be right in the way of everything and the intermediate shaft to the right wheel that is determined to fend off any sort of leverage you need on something above it.  I reckon once you have the bolts loose (the one on the trans side is right easy) you could drop it from the bottom but getting that engine block bolt loose is truly most easily done with a box spanner from above.  Either that or if you have access to air tools.  Unfortunately, at the time I did not (remedied that situation now) and the only way to get a reasonable amount of leverage without interference was a medium-length box spanner.

[bc109]

Ermmmmmm........don't want to teach you to suck eggs......but could it be the ignition switch is slow to release from the fully clockwise position ?
Might be wise to give the return spring a slight helping hand before taking the car apart !
Just a thought !

[chris b]

Good thought!  It springs back straight away - that would have been an easier fix..

I'll try and dive in through the top.  I don't have a pit or ramps so it'd have to be up on axle stands to get from below.  Just need to find an 18mm box spanner now!  Thanks for all your advice

[millster]

Sounds like a plan.  I did use axle stands on mine, but if it can be avoided...
I just double-checked the guide I used for pulling everything apart on mine.  The front bolt (threaded through the trans) is an 18mm.  The rear nut is 17mm.  If that makes it any easier for you.  The only time I needed an 18mm spanner was removing the trans bolt obscured by the catalytic converter (and subsequently cracking the sump when I tried to put it back).  Otherwise, deep-well sockets work perfectly well on the 18mm stuff.  I just couldn't get a ratchet with sufficient leverage down into the space between the aquarium and the intake to get that rear nut loose from the starter. But I thought I'd undone that one before going out to buy the 18mm so I thought I'd double-check and save you some money.

[chris b]

Many thanks for that info.  I haven't got an 18mm spanner or socket so will have to get one this weekend.  I'm glad you let me know before I got started!  Would I be better with a deep socket or ring spanner if I buying something anyway?  Thx

[millster]

Personally, I'd say go for the deep socket.  The trans bolts are very tight and with exception to the bottom one on the sump, are all accessible with a socket and ratchet (though some do work best with an extension or two).  I had to put quite a bit of impact persuasion into the sump bolt with the ring spanner to get it loose and you wouldn't want to have to do that up closer to more delicate systems.

[Max Headroom]

The chances of ever having to undo such items in the distant future once you have reassembled them are slim - but I still always reassemble such items with anti-sieze grease.

One never knows.... 

[millster]

The chances of ever having to undo such items in the distant future once you have reassembled them are slim - but I still always reassemble such items with anti-sieze grease.

One never knows.... 

Oh, but here is where I'd disagree.  When one cracks their sump by foolishly trying to use that bolt to draw a stubborn trans back into place, it becomes rather an imperative to undo said item in the rather near future. 
Likewise though, anti-seize is my constant companion.  A small dab goes a long way and it's cheap insurance against having to break out the rattle gun.

[Max Headroom]

Ah! 

'Nuff said