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Messages - JB

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1
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: One-sided low rider.
« on: 05 July 2013, 09:25:46 AM »
This morning I checked how the car sits when I got in to work (perfectly flat surface) and it does seem to be fairly level which it wasn't before.  ???

I will try to check the rose joint bushes this weekend. I have got new ones to put on, but not really the time to do it (or the inclination as they are a pain to do, even with the correct tool).

I shall report back.

2
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: One-sided low rider.
« on: 04 July 2013, 01:52:17 PM »
Well... I took the rear suspension completely off and found nothing wrong whatsoever.

Springs are in almost perfect condition and identical side by side. Shocks also seem to be identical. Same length, they feel the same in compression and take the same amount of time to expand out. All in all, nothing found as of yet. Everything else checks out OK too as far as I can see.

I didn't have time to do the same at the front, but took the wheels off and checked the springs and shocks visually. All looks absolutely fine and the springs are properly seated top and bottom.

Any suggestions other than do the same at the front?

Audax, the failed shocks you've seen. Have they tended to be at the front or rear? The shocks that are on there now will only be around two years old and won't have done more than around 15k, if that.

3
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: One-sided low rider.
« on: 02 July 2013, 11:23:29 PM »
Nothing for it but take the units apart then.

Any suggestions of what to replace a pair of Bilstein B4's with (assuming they need replacing). Best stick with the same?

4
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: One-sided low rider.
« on: 02 July 2013, 12:39:44 PM »
I do know the springs are the original springs so they should definitely be the correct ones for the car. Bearing in mind the age and mileage, should I change them?

I guess I'll just have to remove the suspension and check it all out. And change the rose joint bushes at the same time.

5
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: One-sided low rider.
« on: 02 July 2013, 12:18:27 PM »
I'm pretty sure the springs are fine. I'll try to get the rear of the car completely off the ground and see if anything stands out. It might be an idea to remove the shocks and compare them side by side.

6
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / One-sided low rider.
« on: 02 July 2013, 11:13:58 AM »
My 2000 9-5SE estate is lower on the right rear. The car has done close to 92k.

When parked it is noticeable that it's a few centimetres lower on the right hand side (somewhere around 2-3cm). There is a small amount of instability when going over bumps, but no knocks or noises.

I changed the shocks all round at the end of 2011 (for Bilstein B4's), but left the springs. Visually they look fine and the suspension itself feels solid when going over bumps. I have got new rose joint bushes to put on, but don't think they could cause it to sit lower (am I wrong on that?). I changed the trailing arm bushes for the Powerflex variety several years ago. Having had an issue with the wishbone bushes at the front of the car (also Powerflex and the front ones were badly disintegrated after only a few years on the car) I thought that the rear trailing arm bushes might be going the same way so changed them for new ones, but the old ones looked absolutely fine.

Any suggestions of what to look for or check?

7
Thanks for that info. I've got hold of the number of a local auto locksmith who is supposed to be able to sort out keys.

Thanks for the eBay link. Having searched eBay further I've now found a complete blank key with transponder and the remote buttons for £39.99.

I'll chase my indie who should have sorted it for me ages ago, but can't supposedly get hold of ready keys or blanks. I'll try the locksmith and see what they can do (and for how much), but may well go for the blank I found on eBay and get it cut and then programmed to the car.

8
Been a little while, but finally got it done so I thought I'd report back.

My indie said that it wouldn't work and the spare 9-5 key would no longer work on the 9-5 if it was programmed to the 9-3, but they did it anyway (saying they'd program it back to the 9-5 when (!) it didn't work as I expected).

The long and short of it is that IT DOES WORK.  :) I took the 9-3 down to my indie who programmed the 9-5 key to the 9-3. They had to lift up the transponder aerial on the car so that the 9-5 key could be read as it won't physically turn the ignition lock on the 9-3, but that was the only thing that had to be done. When I got home I tested the remote fob and it does indeed lock and unlock both cars. :) And the key transponder is recognised by the 9-5 as OK and starts the engine too.

So all I need now is a physical copy of the 9-3 key and we're sorted for an emergency spare key whilst still waiting for a proper spare key to arrive. My indie is having real problems in getting hold of keys for the older 9-3 models. The new ones (without a blade) are fine, but not the older type. Does anybody know where to get hold of one?

9
Hopefully a bit more WD40 over the next few days/weeks will see it working as it should.

After leaving it for a while (to allow most of the WD40 to disappear) then perhaps spray on some silicone lubricant which should be better at repelling any water that gets back on to it so it doesn't happen again.

10
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Cold Start Question
« on: 19 April 2013, 10:47:00 AM »
Does it make a difference if you allow the fuel pump to 'prime' the system (and turn off when full pressure is reached) before turning the key fully to start it cranking over? When I'm very low on fuel it makes a big difference to starting. It'll start straight away rather than take a second or so.

Having said that, it sounds like it could be a CPS problem. Not the typical 'failure mode' as they are usually OK when cold and get worse when hot, but when my DI cassette failed it didn't fail in the usual way either (which I'm thankful for as it started playing up around midnight with two sleeping kids in the back and 100 miles further to go on the way to the in-laws for Christmas). Perhaps it's a poor connection where the CPS lead connects near the back of the engine. Might be worth undoing it and giving it a squirt of WD40. If possible, check the resistance between two of the pins. IIRC is should be about 860-900 ohms when cold.

11
Sounds like the oil isn't getting inside the hinge where I guess it's needed. You may need to use WD40 which should be able to penetrate more easily. Once it's freed up then use some oil or silicone grease spray.

12
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Ball Joints? Front End stuff?
« on: 08 April 2013, 08:14:12 PM »
You won't need to align anything at all after changing the drop links. Simply swap them old for new.

13
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Which Battery?
« on: 20 March 2013, 01:54:19 PM »
Last week I bought a Varta E44 battery for my 2000 9-5 from www.tayna.co.uk (http://www.tayna.co.uk/E44-Varta-Silver-Car-Battery-577400078-P7726.html) (I think the later 9-5's take a different size). The CCA is a high 780A.

My existing Yuasa battery (approx 6 years old) was cranking very slowly in the cold weather and I didn't want to risk it. The Varta battery turned up the very next day, but I haven't fitted it yet as the existing battery hasn't died.

14
So the idea is fundamentally correct then.  :)

The spare 9-5 key could be programmed to also become the spare 9-3 key (electronically only of course). And when the new 9-3 key has arrived, it will be programmed to be recognised by TWICE and the 9-5 key will be 'forgotten' on the 9-3, but will still work on the 9-5.

15
We were only given one key when we purchased our 9-3 Aero convertible (MY 2002) recently. A second key has been on order for a while, but it hasn't turned up yet. I've checked on the car and it does have two keys and transponders registered to it. I can only guess that one of the previous owners has lost one key.

I know that we'd have a big problem if we lost that one key (which is of the all-in-one type) as one key is needed to program (or de-program) others to the car, so I've had an idea. We've also got a 9-5 (MY 2000) and we've got both keys for that (with separate fob). Would it be possible to program the spare 9-5 key (fob and transponder) to the 9-3 as an emergency electronic 'backup'. I know that it wouldn't work physically as the blade is different, but would it work electronically? When the second key eventually turns up then we'd simply program that and remove the 9-5 key and have two proper working keys.

My understanding is that you program the car to recognise the key. Not the other way around. So the 9-5 simply wouldn't know that one of its keys will also operate the 9-3. And the 9-5 key wouldn't know that it's been programmed to two cars.

Your thoughts, as always, are welcome? Is the idea complete rubbish or would it work?

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