Author Topic: Check engine light & rough running  (Read 6055 times)

JFP_turbo

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Check engine light & rough running
« on: 16 July 2011, 11:54:18 PM »
Hello everyone,
I have a 2002 AERO which now has the legendary CEL illuminated & the engine seems to want to die/loose power with increasing frequency.

I know you will suggest taking the car to get the codes read (I need to get myself a code reader), but it would make me happy if I could identify the problem.

Symptoms
It started a few months ago, maybe once a week the car would loose power & hickup for a few seconds then run fine.
I checked the spark plugs a few weeks ago and they looked fine
I swapped the DI about 3yrs & 30,000 miles ago
Over the last few days the car has got much worse until tonight the CEL has come on and the power loss is every few minuites.

So tommorrow I will:
disconnect the battery for a few hours (top tip from years of 9000 ownership)
check the plugs
swap the DI with one off my other 9-5
check hoses for air leaks

Is there anythng else to look at?, at some point soon I will get the white flag out and get the codes read.
Thanks for your help

Saabman

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Re: Check engine light & rough running
« Reply #1 on: 17 July 2011, 06:51:13 AM »
Air mass meter, Lambda sensor???? I would just read the codes though  ::) :)

I'd also sort as soon as otherwise your be buying a catalytic coverter too  ;)

Steve440

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Re: Check engine light & rough running
« Reply #2 on: 17 July 2011, 11:37:00 AM »
Yes get the codes read but when mine did this is was a throttle body. :'(

I must say since I have replaced it the car has been a lot better in every respect. I think when these start playing up you drive around them.

Steve

Audax

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Re: Check engine light & rough running
« Reply #3 on: 17 July 2011, 12:27:32 PM »
I know you will suggest taking the car to get the codes read (I need to get myself a code reader), but it would make me happy if I could identify the problem.

The way to identify the problem is to get the codes read   ;D Really don't bother mucking about otherwise, you can get code readers dirt cheap now, I got a cheap bluetooth one off ebay the other day for less than £20 delivered. I'd rather spend £20 and read the code so I know what it is than spend any time at all mucking about. All I would suggest is have a look for obvious loose/broken connectors and dodgy vacuum hoses, anything else will result in mucking about.

harryO

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Re: Check engine light & rough running
« Reply #4 on: 18 July 2011, 01:55:35 PM »
If it has gone into 'Limp Home Mode', the rough running/stalling is probably due to the stop on the butterfly valve being set too low. Adjust it - like a carburetor - and it makes a huge difference. Have a look on Saabscene.com for posts on cleaning the TB and 'LHM' resetting.

JFP_turbo

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Re: Check engine light & rough running
« Reply #5 on: 19 July 2011, 08:07:24 PM »
Dear All,
Thanks for your help.

I took your advice & got a code reader off ebay.

Out of interest, it says one error code, P0336 "Crankshaft position sensor A circuit range/performance", this makes perfect sense, so I am off to purchase a new CPS sensor tommorrow. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again

Audax

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Re: Check engine light & rough running
« Reply #6 on: 19 July 2011, 08:37:25 PM »
Certainly a case where the code reader has been easier than guesswork  ;)

When you replace the CPS make sure you remove get the old o-ring out if it doesn't come out with the sensor, if not you'll be in for more of the same problems. Also you can measure the resistance of the crank sensor to see if it's out of spec just to make sure it was the fault. I can't remember the readings off the top of my head but if you post them up here I'll look them up for you.

GeoffW

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Re: Check engine light & rough running
« Reply #7 on: 19 July 2011, 09:15:55 PM »
Certainly a case where the code reader has been easier than guesswork  ;)

When you replace the CPS make sure you remove get the old o-ring out if it doesn't come out with the sensor, if not you'll be in for more of the same problems. Also you can measure the resistance of the crank sensor to see if it's out of spec just to make sure it was the fault. I can't remember the readings off the top of my head but if you post them up here I'll look them up for you.
According to WIS, Crancase position sensor resistance is 860 +/- 90 ohms