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Topics - Petemate

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1
Well, it lasted well, just over 147k miles. Noticed the other day it said 60 degrees and I thought - er - i don't think so. Of course, played havoc with the acc system but new one should be here by Wednesday, and reasonably easy to fit.

Otherwise, car going well for the miles, serviced it a few weeks ago and it sailed through the MOT, engine still good for the miles. (cue kiss of death lolol)

Pete

2
Can't find anything explaining how to change the bulb. I'll remove the bumper if necessary. However, got a replacement bulb from Eurocarparts and it is a basic H3 55w bulb with a short piece of wire and male lucar attached. A few illustrations I have found show a different bulb with a plastic fitting. ?
TIA
Pete

3
Nasty piece of engineering these. One of them has suffered an interior breakage but I cannot see how to dismantle the assembly. It seems that it is riveted together and I am loath to spend out on the very expensive replacement offerings. I might have to but just wondered if anyone has had experience of repairing these wretched things?
TIA
Pete

4
Had the car 8 years, got it with about 50k miles, now done a little over 139k. while parking outside a friend's house yesterday - BONG! up came the message on the SID "Electronic Stability Failure Contact Service" First time I've ever seen this. Tried all manner of combinations in the menu, couldn't turn it on. So after the visit, came out and started the car, message still there. Drove carefully home, sat and pondered the likely outcome ($$$$$ lol)

10 minutes later, after some research, (ie browsing the forum) then for a larf, started the car and nothing showing, everything as it should be, able to turn the ESP on and off at will. All systems OK for the rest of the day. I am supposing that there may be some expense on the horizon (eg CIM etc) but in the meantime I think I'll get my mechanic mate to check for codes. As the message came up while I was operating the steering, parking, it may well be the steering angle wotsit. Who knows.....

5
That old chestnut. MOT a couple of weeks ago, only one advisory, same as last year front n/p cracked. The tyres getting a bit low on tread, not advised on the certificate though. Yesterday I saw that they are nearly on the markers so popped the winter wheels on. At around 4-5 mm they will probably just last this winter, having done one season on my lad's Evo including a Sweden trip, and three (AFAIR) on the Saab.

I'm then seriously thinking about a set of Goodyear 4 seasons to go on next spring as we haven't had a winter around here worth worrying about for a good while now, also we tend to only go local or an occasional trip to Chesham and Bordon.

Hope you're all staying well and safe.

Pete

6
Charge rate only 13.1-13.2 volts at the battery, both at idle and higher revs, with or without lights HRW aircon etc on.

Tomorrow I'm going to check for earth cable and other cable/connection problems, but if it turns out that the reg is defective, has anyone ever managed to replace the regulator with the alternator still in situ? Looks like it would just be possible with my slim hands. The alternator is around 3 years old and IMHO should be ok regarding windings, commutator etc.

TIA
Pete

7
A little phenomenon today. Son borrowed the car for a trip to Cowley, and when he came home at around evening meal time, he came in and said he couldn't lock the car. I popped out and sure enough the remote wasn't working. So I grabbed the spare keys, and the fob on them also wouldn't work. So after a bit of head scratching, I decided to disconnect the battery after our dinner to 'reset' the electrics, and left it off while we watched the Chase. Upon reconnecting the neg terminal, voila! System working as it should. Any ideas? Don't fancy my OH getting caught while out on her own, and my confidence in the car has now taken a noticeable dive.

8
Apologies for long post. Yesterday I started a service, changed the oil and filter, checked over the car etc etc. This morning the new air filter arrived, so during the morning fitted that and fitted the new diesel fuel filter which I had in stock. (to fit that, I jacked the car up at the rear nearside)

Finished that just before lunch, and after lunch OH took the car on an approximate 8 miles round trip to local supermarkets with no problems. Late this afternoon, the car would not start and the SID message came up "!Stability Control Failure contact service".

Upon turning the key to Ign On, the message shows and when trying to crank, the engine is not turning over. I think that jacking the rear up on one side may have set something off kilter, but I did the same thing when replacing the filter last year with no ill effects, and even if that were the case, I cannot understand why the car would have started and gone up to the shops, with a total of three starts of the engine during the trip.

I have a mate with an OBD reader coming over tomnorrow about 11 but if that doesn't show something than it may be dealer and hand-in-pocket time.  :( :( :(







9
This has no doubt been aired before, but I thought I would like to relate my own experience in the hope that it wil help others.

Lately, the driver's belt on my 9-3 Sportwagon has been reluctant to completely retract all the way back up. I had tried the silicone spray treatmenmt with no success. So by yesterday, it would not retract far enough to be safe to use. Today I set upon it and removed to necessary trim, ie B post lifting the sill trim to the rear of it and removing the short sill trim to the front of it to facilitate the removal. After disconnecting the lower attachment of the belt to the seat, and removing the upper guide and middle retainer, I found that the belt spool wound back in without any restriction. Close examination revealed a small amount of roughness on the surface of the upper guide - just enough to pinch the webbing  and stop it from sliding smoothly through. There is so little clearance that only a very thin nail file (thanks OH...) and then a piece of 600 grade rubbing down paper would fit in together with the webbing to effect the smoothing off of the plastic surface. Goodness only knows how anything which would make the plastic surface rough like that had got in there, but it is now nice and smooth and once everything was refitted the belt performs perfectly.

I am wondering how many, if any, belts have been replaced unnecessarily; I did look on ebay but found only one offside front belt which was pre-owned at 50 GBP and would not necessarily have been OK. Neo Brothers currently have a brand new one at 114 GBP, but of course there would have been the delicate problem of replacing it without blowing myself up or at best an impromptu castration. Naturally, once I had researched the possible cost I was very relieved to have sorted it out with no cost at all.                                   

10
As title. I suspect that there is a tiny leak from this on our car. When I serviced it last November, I did notice that there was a sign of a possible problem ie a slight trace of soot around the rear of the woven SS covering.

As previously reported, I have blanked off the EGR after cleaning out the manifold (last year, prior to our last trip out with the caravan) The performance has been really good since this, and currently there is no coolant or oil loss. However, I have been aware of the need to carry out what I term as a "DPF clean" run down the good old A34 (my lad obliges frequently when he borrows the car to go to work lol) a bit more frequently than I used to. He reported about a week ago that there was occasionally some smoke from the front end and this would clear. I experienced it today; on the Oxford ring road during a shopping trip, when pulling up at some lights out from under the front came a white cloud of smoke accompanied by a very strong diesel smell. We got round to the shop and parked up. Checking under the bonnet, I noticed some wetness on the top of the breather canister, which I mistook for diesel (by now the smoking had stopped - it turned out to be a bit of oil mist) and being wary of possible fire I called the AA and out came a nice guy with a powerful torch. Absolutely no signs of leakage at any of the many pipes and connectors and so he kindly followed us home and checked it again. I am of the opinion that a regen had started and the extra diesel generously provided by the ECU had caused the smoking from the flexi part of the downpipe. The remainder of running today produced no further problems.

So tomorrow off will come the undertray, and over the following few days I will be armed with my bright torch and a blanket to quickly lay on at the side of the car if/when we get more smoke to confirm (or not) that the smoke is coming from the suspected flexi.

Anyone else had a similar problem?

Notwithstanding the relative low cost of a downpipe (if this is indeed the culprit) OH has now lost confidence in the car and we are looking for likely replacements.  :-[

11
As title. According to my manual, if I go into the steering wheel controls menu, I can scroll through and when the TCP appears, it can be turned off. However, there is no TCP logo appearing in the display, only ESP. So I have to assume that my manual covers all models, including those with switchable TC.

Any ideas peeps?

12
This month's irritating mystery.

Before retiring nightly, as a habit, I always check the car for having been locked by the last user. Picking the keys off of the kitchen hook, I point the remote in the direction of the hall and press the lock icon, and the comforting flash of the indicators confirms that it was indeed locked. If there is the 2 second delay before the indicator flash, I either moan at myself if I was the last user or roast the remainder of the family. So, last night about a couple of hours after my lad returned home from work, I went through the ritual and no flash. Hmm. Picked up the spare keys, same result. Went out to the car, and while I stood next to it, the remote worked OK. Back indoors for the other set of keys, same resujlt - only worked when I was next to the car. I know all is normally well as when we are out shopping, the remote is effective from at least 30 yards away.

So suspecting that the remote batteries may be low (though no warning on the display) I checked them - both are showing 3.1 volts.

This morning I picked the key off of the kitchen hook and voila! It worked from right back at the back door. Also OK with the other key.

I am mystified.

13
Last couple of weeks a harsh noise has been heard on idle. Stuck my home-made stethoscope (ie a long Snap-on screwdriver with a lump of rag on the handle) against various engine parts, traced to the alternator. So yesterday, off came the aux belt, and I found about 1-2mm up and down and about 5mm in and out at the pulley. Ordered a replacement unit from Eurocarparts, Bosch to replace the bosch unit currently fitted. Initial discount, plus 'end of month' promo, cost down to £195. Plus new aux belt (well, I planned to replace it in about a month when I service the car) similarly discounted to a tenner.

Just got the old unit off in about an hour and a half. Worst bit was releasing the dratted large loom clips for which I had to remove the air box to get at the tage from beneath with pong-nosed-liars.

Spun it with my drill with a rubber wheel and the unit is rattling like a good 'un. Would have had the job finished today but OH needed the car for lunch with friends, so couldn't start it until the engine had cooled down. I reckon the new one should go in a darned sight faster than the old one came out.

Slightly O/T, good result from my recent blanking off of the EGR; at the same time I rermoved, stripped and cleaned the intake manifold with the assistance of my lad's vapour blaster. What a difference that has made; 3-4 better mpg running around, 4-5 better mpg on runs, and 3-4 mpg towing. Plus the benefit of the car now going like a scalded cat.

14
Oh dear. Everything re the Sportwagon has been good of late; yesterday while out, I remarked to OH "there we go, just turned over 97000 miles, all good!"
Kiss of death. This morning she gets in the car and puts the key in and

15
Apologies for length of post. Twill be funny dear reader - indulge me.
Moral of the story - always read your owner's manual (from cover to cover).
This morning I climbed into the car on our campsite, preparing to pack all the camping stuff in it prior to setting off for home. Knowing that I would be starting the engine to pop the rear tyre pressures up for the towing home of the caravan, I placed the key into its receptacle and of course with the door open, that annoying bleeping to tell me that I had the door open with the key in started. So I just turned it to the 'off' position to shut the bleeping off. Fine. Then, in the happy foreknowledge that opening, and leaving open, the tailgate, the rear interior lights would go off after a short time to avoid draining the battery, I commenced the laborious task of fitting all the chairs and bits and pieces associated with the delightful practice of "going caravanning" into the car. This, punctuated with choice remarks of 'er indoors of "have your got this?" and "have you got that?", took a considerable amount of time, namely about an hour and a half. After a mid morning cuppa, during which I noted happily that those rear interior lights had indeed gone orf, we then attended to the final stages of preparing the caravan for its journey home. The last task, namely the adjustment of the rear tyre pressures, was then tackled, my idea had been of course to avoid unnecessary starting and restarting of the car. Turned the ignition on, then to crank position - rr....rr....r. Oh. We had already disconnected the site hook up lead, so I unrolled and reconnected it. I have a long lead in the caravan which I plug into the caravan's cigar lighter when checking the motorbike tyres. This was put to good use by plugging it in, and connecting it to the car battery terminals, after first disconnecting the caravan leisure battery to ensure max passage of the precious electrickery into the Saab battery. Initially it was showing 12.4 volts even though the leads indicated 13.7 volts before connecting up. I assumed that the length of the flimsy leads gave a voltage drop when the caravan charging system made its feeble effort to revitalise the Saab. Four soduko puzzles later (OH tapping her feet....) the voltage in the Saab battery had risen to a massive 12.85 volts. I gave it a go and it started. Whew.
Upon perusing my owners manual, I came across a paragraph, the exact wording of which I cannot recall but it more or less advised that in the position of 'OFF' the remote (AKA ignition key lol) should be removed if the engine is not running, as 'there is connection to some electrics'. My reaction was 'No s**t - if I had read my manual I would have known not to leave the key (remote) in that position. Doh and Doh again.
'Night all.

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