Thie sump is off, here's some comments on the process:
First of all, WIS is pretty useless on the NG 9-5, sure there is some helpful information, but it only seems to have 40% of the information that is necessary, and some that is unneccessary
First of all, it is possible to remove the sump without having to remove the intermediate shaft, which of course would be a somewhat larger job on the XWD. You do need to remove the intermediate shaft bracket on the offside, and to get access to the bolts you need to pop the driveshaft off the retaining clip. I nice big pry-bar is emminently suitable
The first picture shows it after all the bolts are removed, the right hand one in the picture is the difficult one, you hve to start off with a ring spanner to release the bolt and get a couple of turns on it, as it withdraws, use the open end to turn it one hex at a time
Next we have what looked like it was going to be a real problem. WIS tells you to remove the starter. You don't need to do that at all (and it tells you to just remove the securing bolts, apparently the electrical connections disappear by magic). It's a simple 10mm bolt, which is securing the drain pipe from the oil separator for the PCV system. Access is with a 1/4" ratchet, arm round the top of the gearbox, eyes underneath to watch it onto the bolt
Then we have sump off. To actually remove the sump I needed to undo the subframe mounting to get that bit of extra clearance I needed. The sump bolts themselves came out easily, the difficult ones were the ones at the flywhel end, but they were only difficult until you realised that there is a cutout in the flywheel to allow access to these bolts. If the flywheel is not in the right position, you cannot get tools on.
What this shows is the seal, next to the orifice from the oil pickup pipe. This is simply a compression fit onto the flange, so if it shrinks / goes hard, oil from the pump above can drain away back into the sump
Finally, after reading around looking for advice on the PCV connection I saw one post that said don't use the Polish engineered solution because that reduces the diameter of the pickup tube
https://insignia-drivers.uk/forum/insignia-ownership-technical-workshop/how2s-faq-s-guides-and-helpful-things/11895-how-to-replace-oil-pickup-seal-in-sump-a20dth/page3The diameter of the orifice on the sump is 21.1mm. The engineered part is 18.1mm, so it's a 1.5mm wall on the insert. I'll freely admit, fluid dynamics is not an area of my expertise, other than a basic comprehension of pressure, flow & wall friction. I think I'll need to see if I can get an engineering calculator to do some calcs for me, but of course, I'll need to have some values for viscosity of the oil and what the required minimum potential delivery rate to the pump has to be... unless someone can give me a quick
or
to the idea
In the meantime, I'll get on with stripping the sump & inspecting the condition of the strainer. I'm not expecting it to be blocked like the OG 9-5's used to be because the diesel has an insulation jacket around the sump to keep the heat IN the oil
I need to make my mind up on sump sealer. Do I use the anaerobic sealer that we used on the OG 9-5's (Loctite 518 type) or some of the more common RTV type sealer like this
https://www.zoro.com/pro-seal-high-temp-sensor-safe-rtv-silicone-sealant-3-oz-red-temp-range-70-to-650-degrees-f-80726/i/G2726263/. What was fitted was some black stuff, with excess around the edge of the sump as you can see in the picture, but having looked at the history file which goes back to 32,000 miles / 2013, I'm of the opinion this is from factory
