Hello again!
I've not tried the Blu-tak method - I can't see why it wouldnt work other than blue tak would be more 'squishy' than a proper detailing clay.
Claying the paintwork is an effective way of removing tar and tree sap. Tree sap is not that visible.
But to stop the clay sticking, a clay kit will supply you with a clay 'lube'.
If you run out of clay lube you can make your own with some Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner mixed with water in a spray bottle or you could use a mix of a couple of small capfuls of car shampoo. Water on its own doesn't work too well.
I dont carry out claying every time I wash the car - probably once a month or once every couple of months - I guess its all about how much youre into having a really clean car - some people dont do any of this stuff!
My Routine is as follows1) Pressure wash the car. Knock as much dirt and crap off as you can. In the wheelarches, underneath - everywhere!
2) Using the pressure washer, apply a thick blanket of Snow-Foam; leave it for a few mins to 'fall off' the car pulling dirt with it as it drips off (While I fill my buckets is time for me)
3) Pressure wash again, removing the last of the snow-foam
4) Using the "two buckets method with Grit-guards" wash the car with shampoo (I like Mequiars Gold Class) a lambswool wash-mitt (dont buy Halfords lambswool mitts - they fall to pieces - I have Meguiars ones). Start at the top and work down as more grit will be on the lower paintwork. Dont forget the door, boot and bonnet shuts; fuel filler cap door; bottoms of doors etc. I always leave the wheels to the very last.
5) GENTLY pressure-wash the last of the shampoo off the car with a fine mist rather than a blast, and until all trace of soap has gone
6) Dry the car with large blue fluffy microfibre drying towels
7) Polish - Apply with foam applicator (I use Autoglym Super Resin Polish - it fills fine scratches quite well and gives a small amount of protection) Leave it to dwell for about 30 mins or so before buffing off with midrofibre cloths. Work it well into scratched areas; it will build up and may remove a light scratch.
8 ) Wax - Apply with foam applicator (white or silver cars benefit from Colinite 845 Insulator Wax - it gives a great "wet" shine). Let it dwell for 40 mins or so. Buff with fresh Microfibre cloths.
9) I sometimes apply a second coat of wax.
10) Using Kimberly Clark Wypall blue roll paper, clean all the glass. I like the Halfords glass cleaner in the green bottle - its dramatically good. Or Meguirs glass cleaner.
11) Use a tyre dressing to black up the tyres - it really finishes and sets off the whole jlook of a cleaned car!
Mechanical polishers need polish and waxes suited to that method due to the heat that can be generated.
A lot of this is trial and error - you may prefer different polishes for darker colours. You may hate washing your car and never do any of this!
Create an account on Detailing World and use the search function to speed up the trial and error routine! But be warned - detailing can become quite addiictive.
There is also a new school-of-thought on
not using the two-bucket method, or even using shampoo...
Two Bucket methodAlternative Method