Show Posts

You can view here all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas to which you currently have access.


Messages - Oldcolner

Pages: [1] 2
1
Have seen some using this for 900s and 9-3s up to 2003
Very destructive

http://www.saab9000.com/gearknob/images/instructions.jpg

2
Here’s some I found

one destructive effort on the knob but also covers the gaitor.
https://youtu.be/L8peTUq1SO0

A simpler way of knob removal, that may preserve the gear knob
https://youtu.be/mBIME9XksP4

This is fastest for knob removal but its done in the front room.
https://youtu.be/wnP7FNHgawE

3
AJ
Never had a car that gave so many tone notifications ... even on things of minor import. Would have expected some EMFaults need urgent attention.
I feel deprived.
Lol

4
Talking of making simple things difficult....

Bought an after market new knob assuming the old one would screw off , but no and you tube shows some total carnage destroying the old one to get it off. Saab require you to cut the top off the old one and drill a hole for a screw to be tightened and force the knob up. There’s talk of putting glue in the new one.
Another video shows some using a screw driver to release 3 catches after taking the gear stick out of the car and the top springing off.

Have read that in California the heat can make the knob come off in your hand.

Has anyone done this job, ideally heating the knob with a hairdryer and definitely not destroying the old one.

I’m anxious that having got the old one off my aftermarket one won’t fit.
(My aftermarket sharks fin purchase looked the job but connections and fitments were wrong)

Any advice appreciated.

5
Thanks everyone. Your comments are greatly appreciated and add to my Saab CPD.

It’s also a relief to see no light. Whether that was just down to my hill climb or a natural reset over time who knows. I suspect the filler cap to be the cause, would that have a code? Surprised that such a thing could stop the car from accelerating away.

I live learn and wonder who on earth wanted to create a car that wants to tell you it has so many things wrong, so many fuses and makes simple tasks so difficult. Over engineering at its most complex.

Sorry to have some more questions

Is there a list of codes or does the reader tell you where the fault is?

I read the EMS light is amber for a fuel problem and red for an engine fault. Is that correct?
Why does the light not trigger an i bing bong alert when it comes on.
The amber light is really feeble and almost invisible with the top down.


6
Thanks very much for the help. I will get a code reader.
You are right the light was a feint amber with the roof up. The good news is after considering taking out fuses (but which?)and disconnecting the battery I came across this for Trionic boost adaptation reset.

“The adaptation range is from 2000 rpm up to 3500 rpm. The minimum time needed in this range is 3 seconds. Select the highest gear possible. It is easiest to perform this on a long hill. Repeat this until maximum boost pressure is attained.”

Well I tried this and as I drove on the light got dimmer and after locking it for an hour it had gone out the next time I got in it. The power boost was better than it had been since I got it. I guess I mustn’t have closed the fuel cap well enough and it either reset with driving or the above. Phew!!

7
Thanks for the replies.

Where do you connect the code reader and what codes are there? Are the instructions understandable

Defo pale white not orange and no warning light on dashboard - will try to post a photo tomorrow.

Best wishes

8
Filled up yesterday.
Driving away this morning the car seemed sluggish and noticed the EM light was on, it was dim white not amber and there was no i warning on dash. Drove home ok and been searching on the web.
I assume the light should not be showing.
I see the filler cap says not fitting it properly may cause this fault. The light may have been on yesterday. I took the cap off and refitted it but dim white light still there.
I have seen lots of other possible causes and also sometimes there’s no fault and a reset is needed.
I saw someone says fuse 17 needs to be taken out for 20 seconds and refitted to do that.
What do experts here suggest?


9
Thanks one was loose from the rail. I put it back on but light still showed, only to find a tiny fuse like piece of practice with two metal prongs coming from it. I just found this video which  calls it a locking pin. Hope fitting that solves the problem. New ones seem to cost £100!
https://youtu.be/btKlBpGZZYQ

10
Had this again on passenger seat after moving it roughly to get seat back to flex forwarded. Fiddled again and all was well till today when after leaving it overnight the light came on again and isn’t cured by fiddling on either seat.
Read there has been a recall on this but no idea if it was done also there are sensor clips on the interior seat rail that my be dislodged by hoovering so that’s my next bet, but I’ve no idea what I’m looking for, also read it may be a steering wheel problem.
Anyone else had issues on here?
Found the Clear button at least takes the warning down from the dash.

11
My experience may be helpful
I insured my new to me Saab with LV by adding it to my main car policy. I added my daughter who has a clean licence and found this reduced the premium, so did it to the main car too. Overall adding her to both policies saved me around £60 on both cars, whilst adding a dash cam saved another £8 on each. My Saab policy eventually cost around £220 for 3000 miles with no NCB. ???
This was done by speaking to a person who was very helpful. On line comparison sites were quoting £400 or more for the Saab.

12
Thanks AJ
Is that fixable, I’m no expert as you’ll gather.

13
After cleaning the carpets I got a warning that the airbags were faulty. Found there’s some connection under the seat that may have failed. Checked and sure enough my brushing had touched it whatever it is. Fiddled with the connections and all now seems well.
This car certainly has its foibles.

14
Just tried to get headlights to switch from dip to full beam. They flashed full but returned to dip. On one occasion they did go on full and wouldn’t switch back to dip. They returned after switching the lights off.
Have read elsewhere of an orange relay 41 09 070 that can cause some faults, but not seen my problem and suggestions it needs replacing or soldering, but no one says it is for a 9-3 over 2003 old. Does this seem to be the problem? Haven’t found the relay yet.

Found some for £18 on the net and am not a soldering buff. Any thoughts?

15
Yes very stiff, but not now  :D

Found a Dutch supplier for this Wind Deflector repair kit material on eBay £25 + £9.99 postage

I also have a wind deflector which has a net material in a metal frame that fits behind the front seats. The net has some holes in it, can you buy the material to patch the holes or refit a new screen into the metal frame.

Bought a hood roof cover on eBay for £10 which seems to work, bit flimsy but it stood up to strong winds and torrents of rain last week.

Pages: [1] 2