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Messages - Petemate

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1
I've done a couple of external temp sensors..  It's pretty straightforward.

Yes Will, in my case due to a missing air dam (recent motorway debris damage) I didn't even need to jack it up!

2
Well, it lasted well, just over 147k miles. Noticed the other day it said 60 degrees and I thought - er - i don't think so. Of course, played havoc with the acc system but new one should be here by Wednesday, and reasonably easy to fit.

Otherwise, car going well for the miles, serviced it a few weeks ago and it sailed through the MOT, engine still good for the miles. (cue kiss of death lolol)

Pete

3
Thanks Phoenix - I ultimately checked the owners manual and found the info I needed. Derr.

4
Can't find anything explaining how to change the bulb. I'll remove the bumper if necessary. However, got a replacement bulb from Eurocarparts and it is a basic H3 55w bulb with a short piece of wire and male lucar attached. A few illustrations I have found show a different bulb with a plastic fitting. ?
TIA
Pete

5
Can you drill out the rivets? A rivet gun is pretty inexpensive and easy to use.

My next move! I have a rivet gun but the ones on the fitting are special, I reckon I will probably replace them with screws. The ones going through the pivots for the release catches are long ones with possibly spacers; I'll work it out lol.

6
Nasty piece of engineering these. One of them has suffered an interior breakage but I cannot see how to dismantle the assembly. It seems that it is riveted together and I am loath to spend out on the very expensive replacement offerings. I might have to but just wondered if anyone has had experience of repairing these wretched things?
TIA
Pete

7
Many thanks Audax, what you say sounds OK, obviously whatever caused the message disappeared when I restarted the car. While I realise there is an issue, I reckon I'll have to allow it to develop.

I'll report in due course.

8
Had the car 8 years, got it with about 50k miles, now done a little over 139k. while parking outside a friend's house yesterday - BONG! up came the message on the SID "Electronic Stability Failure Contact Service" First time I've ever seen this. Tried all manner of combinations in the menu, couldn't turn it on. So after the visit, came out and started the car, message still there. Drove carefully home, sat and pondered the likely outcome ($$$$$ lol)

10 minutes later, after some research, (ie browsing the forum) then for a larf, started the car and nothing showing, everything as it should be, able to turn the ESP on and off at will. All systems OK for the rest of the day. I am supposing that there may be some expense on the horizon (eg CIM etc) but in the meantime I think I'll get my mechanic mate to check for codes. As the message came up while I was operating the steering, parking, it may well be the steering angle wotsit. Who knows.....

9
Thanks Will. I'll have a look at the Nokians in the daylight tomorrow and see what is on the sidewalls. When used on dry warmer roads I do know that they perform well and are reasonably quiet.

Pete

10
That old chestnut. MOT a couple of weeks ago, only one advisory, same as last year front n/p cracked. The tyres getting a bit low on tread, not advised on the certificate though. Yesterday I saw that they are nearly on the markers so popped the winter wheels on. At around 4-5 mm they will probably just last this winter, having done one season on my lad's Evo including a Sweden trip, and three (AFAIR) on the Saab.

I'm then seriously thinking about a set of Goodyear 4 seasons to go on next spring as we haven't had a winter around here worth worrying about for a good while now, also we tend to only go local or an occasional trip to Chesham and Bordon.

Hope you're all staying well and safe.

Pete

11
I am reliably assured / educated that crimping cables gives a better electrical connection than soldering, the pressure creates micro welds between the cores and the increased wire surface area increases the current carrying capacity.

Other chemicals will no doubt interfere with the micro weld process, though of course the conditions when new do not remain constant through the service life. I haven't heard too many occurances of this type of failure, so suspect you were just unlucky.......... but at least you didn;t waste money on a new alternator  :)

Thanks carrera. As you say, I was probably unlucky but I reckon there will be a few other cars out there with potential problems.

I am intending to eventually replace the ring terminal on the end ofHalfords finest piece of cable with something like the atached pic. IMO better to be OTT than stranded (no pun intended)

Thanks for all the inputs everyone.

Pete

12
IMHO a crimp like this on the main cable from the positive terminal of the car battery is a very poor design. As well as for the current to the starter, it is also the path for the alternator to charge the battery. I think a very similar layout on a lot of cars.

As shown in a previous pic, that crimp was on the underneath of the terminal 3-way fitting. I suppose that the application of some anti-corrosion treatment by the harness manufacturer prior to crimping would have been too much to expect. 😡

13
All sorted now. Short heavy duty pos cable from Halfords, one end cut orf, spliced into the main cable (not enough to pull through to cut and refit)

Job's a good un.


14
Nice cheap fix then, thanks for posting back with the solution.

Last time I did something like this I think I just used a butane torch to get heat into the cable core, the solder flowed well enough

Cheers - I'll probably do something similar. We'll see what state the wiring is where it goes into the post 3-way connector - not sure I can pull the cable far enough to fit a large ring terminal. Hopefully I can repair it at the post (my lad also has a nice Max torch. Ideal for this sort of thing)

15
Have you checked that your voltmeter is accurate?  These things can go off with time.  If it has an internal battery, it that OK?

Thanks Will - meter is OK. Found the problem - overheated positive post, resulting in voltage drop where the large lead enters beneath. I'll need to apply some heavy duty repair, fortunately my lad has a BIG electric iron. I found 14.2v at the alternator B+. Also 14.2v on the starter connection. So I prodded the cable and found 14.2v, but only 13.1 on the 3 way post fitting.

Thanks for all the input!

Pete

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