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Messages - andy.h

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1
Classic Saab 9-3 & GM900 (MY 1994-2002/03CV) / Re: 9-3 clutch issue
« on: 02 June 2012, 01:00:41 PM »
 As i wrote my post i knew nothing about the slave cylinder so apologies for the stupid question ..
  As you press the clutch now you can hear a squeaking from within the gear box so the slave cylinder must be failing , im looking at changing it but , i have no 'locking pin' so wondering if anyone could suggest an alternative , if an alternative could be used that is

2
Classic Saab 9-3 & GM900 (MY 1994-2002/03CV) / 9-3 clutch issue
« on: 31 May 2012, 12:20:38 PM »
i have a '02 9-3 and i've noticed that there seems to be less clutch .
 you have to press the clutch pedal down further and the bitting point on release is a lot lower , also trying to get 3rd gear when accelerating is not as smooth now so could it be the clutch or the master cylinder ?

 is the clutch hydraulic  ?

3
Now before i start im no mechanic and this to some is probably a daft question so , i apologise in advance but just humour me ..
 My 02 9-3 looks like it's needing another diesel pump and after the hassle i had last time taking it to a garage im going to fit it myself but i just need to know 1 thing ..
  how do you time it up ?   do you get the engine to DDC , then put the groove highlighted in the picture to top and slide the pump in and connect ?   or does that groove specifically slide onto something so it doesnt matter getting the engine ddc as you can just turn the pumps spindle till it slides in ?
 really could do with and appreciate any help on the matter 

4
im struggling to get my 9-3 hatchback to start when i turn the key .
 it's an intermittent problem that when i turn the key i get all the dash lights but then nothing , no click of the starter or anything , usually i just turn the key again and she'll fire up but this last week ive been struggling for upto 5 minutes and im worried that 1 day it's will leave me stranded
 am i right in thinking it's to do with the ignition barrel

5
Does any1 have a step by step removal guide for the pump . I'm just concerned about the opposite end to the 4 fuel pipes ...
 could someone share a few tips , please
 

6
it's the pump , more specifically it's the pump timing ... no wonder it's been hard to start but im quite lucky really that it's been a gradual failure instead of it just packing up as these BOSCH VP44 pumps are renowned for .
 

7
now i've rpm increase when ive pressed the clutch to change up/down gears ..
====================

  i think ive found a problem , whether it's 'the' problem im not too sure ...
ive noticed soot around the turbo casing by the arm which moves the waste gate valve , and when i rev it i can see a small puff of smoke around that area being blown backwards towards the bulkhead, you have to look hard but it's noticeable but for the life of me a cant see where it's coming from .
 could be the cause of my problems ? 

8
it had new ones 6 months ago but just to make sure i changed them again last week..
 it's still hard to start and on wednesday it's started to 'chug' like a narrowboat when it manages to fire up . this chug will last around 1/2 minutes the it'll run as normal .
   once it's started it will tear down the motorway no problem and it's good as gold but, it's just a sod to start ...
         ....  i really have no idea

 this is it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIAT5zITkfM
 at the start it chuggs then near the end of the video after i rev it it goes to normal

9
bought a inlet manifold from a scrappy and 2 new gaskets from vauxhall and it's still hard to start .
 i give up
 

10
you just answered me on the other forum ...
 it's got really worse since wednesday , but it's been deteriorating for weeks and now it wont start at all,  it's just run the new battery flat 
 i cant understand that, when i fitted the new battery and took it out, it's goes into limp mode and loses all power and all the smoke and then clears ?
 like i said , it's had new injection seals when i had a new head 6 moths ago + rail pipes ..
  looks like im not in work tomorrow as i'll be trying to find another car , ive had me fill of this 1 n think im going to scrap it , twice now it's let me down for work and cant afford to carry on with it ..
  cheers anyway you're a star
 
wait  ! 5.50 and it's going .. put another freshly charged battery and jump leads to the other car and it fired ...
 just hope she's so gallant tomorrow morning at 3.30am
                                                                               *crosses fingers*

11
((( sigh )))
 had the codes cleared and it's been ok but it's getting increasingly harder to start
  i replaced with a new battery thinking the old 1 had a dead cell , travelled into town and eml came on , complete loss of power and plumes of black smoke , then it went back to normal after about 5 seconds ..
  replaced the crank sensor then this morning again hard to start and engine shudder but cleared after 10 seconds ..
 theres fuel at the pump and it's not cold enough for the plugs to kick in so why whys it taking so long to start ?

12
when i have the codes read i had them cleared and , h'obviously i dont want to speak too soon but, today it's just done 240 mile without a glitch , i was even getting 45 to the gallon according to the sid
  it's still a sod to start in the morning but im not sure whether theres an air leak in the fuel system , so i'll swap the fuel pipe for clear so i can see .
 but im still losing water which is a concern so i'll have to get a head gasket tester
 appreciate all the help , many thanks

13
id read this on another saab forum and this was leading me towards a failing cps :

*saab 9-3 limp mode intermittent engine light coming on, restricting power, then light going off after a second or two and power back to normal*.

The car needs to know 3 positions to work out where within the "map" the engine is at any given load & speed.
To do this it needs to know where the Crankshaft (sensor 1) Camshaft (sensor 2) & speed/ engine rpm (3rd sensor ) is. It then knows where BTDC (Before Top Dead Centre) is, and adjusts the fuel mix accordingly
If one of the sensor fails, or sends an abnormal value, the 'MAP' contains enough data for the car to run normally usually with no problems.
Once the data moves out of the safe area of the MAP it will throw a CEL as it effectively doesn't know where the crank cam & pistons are.... hence limp mode it knows that below 3K rpm it can use set default values that will enable the car to limp home.

however now sgould has mentioned temperature sensitive im rather worried ...
ive not put the 2 problems together but,  ive had to top up with water every 10 - 14 days prolly since easter ,  not much but still a top up, on wednesday i was sitting in 3 lanes of traffic on a hot day so i had the window open , i turned the car off to save fuel then noticed a 'overheating smell* i looked around & thought someones has got trouble with their car ( not thinking it could be me )
  got home popped the bonnet and checked the water which seemed low , unscrewed the cap and noticed black bits all round the water line which i cant remember seeming before, the bits arent oil consistency but biscuit like so i cleaned the particles out the best i could and they havent returned but ive lost more water so im guessing head gasket .
  im clutching at straws because as you can tell im no mechanic but, could it be a knackered thermostat or something which now has over cooked the engine and somehow caused the previous problem with the cps then ?
  i spose i need a head gasket test but im embarrassed to say that i just cant afford it, im trying to source a 2nd hand cps as im desperate to get rid ( which sgould has help with on another forum which i salute him for )
  i'll swap map & cps then see how it goes but dont go away on holiday you lot or im proper stuffed  ;)
   
 

14
no it isnt , in january i had a 2nd hand cylinder head from a scrap yard as 2 of my followers broke cracking the original, i  had it put on at a garage and i thought all was well .
   drove around for a few months thinking something wasnt right as it didnt seem to have the poke as it used to have and started checking for air leaks as id had before in numerous places around the engine , rubber seal between air filter & maf , the air filter cover itself warped on the joint being just 2 which caused the same symptoms as i was experiencing , then i noticed black soot escaping from the left hand bottom corner of the inlet manifold which once remove showed the problem to be the 3 bolts held/bodged in by thread lock ..
 now i cant prove the mechanic did it or the manifold was like that as it came with the head so i bought a recoil set and new gaskets did it myself and all was well , the turbo poke was back at 2.500 rpm and i was chuffed .
 then , a few months later this happened with the limp mode , so took everything off and cleaned it , i 'stupidly' took the inlet manifold off again to see if it had held , which it had and replaced but , as id previously tightened all the remaining bolts to their limit last time now they wouldnt tighten at all so i had to drill every1 and recoil ( i know , im a c**k ) and i dont think or im just paranoid that it's right so id rather have a completely different manifold *with threads*  & fit new gaskets for peace of mind ...
 ive learnt *dont over tighten aluminium threads*
 Anyway today ive taken it for another diagnostic as before it came up showing nothing and after some messing about with , it's produced 2 codes , P0105 & P0335..
 now the 1st is map sensor and the 2nd being crankshaft sensor ?
 but why would both only cause problems on a long journey/ or over an hours drive ?
if it was the crankshaft sensor wouldnt it just stall ?   
but saying that , it has on a couple of occasions been harder to start ...
and the mpg is low and surely a crankshaft sensor wouldnt cause that would it ?


15
i wonder if any1 could help with the problem above ?
 since written it's only been on 1 long journey and again it went into limp mode for a few seconds and cleared itself ..
 

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