Show Posts

You can view here all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas to which you currently have access.


Messages - danilo

Pages: [1]
1
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Throttle and Stability Issues
« on: 27 July 2012, 02:59:52 AM »
Easy quick answer is to Swap in a  'proven good' DI cassette
 Also it's possible that the Brass tube fitting that the upper AIC rubber hose attaches to has fallen out of the Throttle body.. They do that :-)

2
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: APC Problem
« on: 06 November 2011, 04:52:36 PM »
Remove! the Solenoid completely. You are overboosting with out benefit of the ECU controls.
 Your existing LPT ECU can be reprogrammed (T5suite from ECUproject.com) to full LPT or stage +++ .

But don't run the solenoid until the ECU is operating it.

3
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Fuel smell from rear offside
« on: 06 November 2011, 04:49:48 PM »
Actually there is no need to remove the wheel .. lots of room to reach in and work on it :-)

4
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: SRS ECU
« on: 06 November 2011, 04:48:23 PM »
SRS ECU's are pretty well model year specific.  Be careful in which one you buy.
 I got one from M5_saabcentre for very little cost.
 

5
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: VSS Problems
« on: 18 October 2011, 03:48:09 AM »
Go to ECUproject.com. Read , read and read somemore then Download theT5 suite AND it's instruction pdf.   
The VSS can be activated,disabled etc.   very easily from T5 suite.
 The difference between an Auto ECU and a 5spd one is a couple of 'boxes' ticked in the onscreen menu.. again from T5 suite.

6
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Review your Saab 9000 (M85-97)
« on: 21 September 2011, 06:05:09 PM »
My 97 is my 4th one First was an 87. Earlier cars were quicker more agile. Lots of ongoing trans issues though, plus the infamous Electrical oddities, that Never fully go away.
 Current 2.3 gets atrocious Mileages .  After 20 years of Owning Saabs , I have NEVER seen 30 mpg .. period.
And treat all such claims with total amazement.
 Current CSE gets 20 (ish) Urban  (80% of my driving ) and possibly? 26/7 on the hiway.
 Nice Comfy car.. But in fairness not even close to what a current Similar $40/50 K! car delivers.
 But then there is reason why we got ours for, at most , 10 cents on the original purchase price $.
 Unlikely that we will be able to buy another such car in the future, for peanuts pricings.
End of an era me thinks. Enjoy it while we can :-)

7
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Engine Number.
« on: 21 September 2011, 05:57:11 PM »
Means that someone prior to your tenancy has fitted an earlier one.. likely from a wrecker.
Check the DI cassette's date code for Mfg date. There's another Learning curve for you :-)
 Despite what you believe ALL reds are the same.. Albeit for the Very earliest 'different connector' variants  Which I doubt one can find, let alone buy.   If you can plug it in, it will work as intended.

8
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Thermostat
« on: 01 September 2011, 05:26:07 PM »
So much theory and myth.
 First and foremost these are aged semi (mostly?) clapped $1500 cars  *nothing* is gong to be their fountain of youth,
so this is all just Pub Talk :-).
I have  been running SCCA 'weekend racers' sporadically since '69 and currently  (still:-) an ancient Yama TZ350,
on MY equipment, thermostat temp does in fact, have large and immediate real world effect on running temps, nothing subtle about it.
Temp control is how one sets up for Max Power, just another tool.  My Yama is currently running 50c :-), with some thoughts on trying 45c. Down a bit from it's oem 80c as a factory racer, albeit decades ago. Years go by and theories change.
 Couple of weekends racing, discards a lot of hearsay, quickly, helluva lot of fun too.  Try it :-)

9
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Driver Window Fault, Not Center Switches
« on: 01 September 2011, 04:48:23 PM »
Don't be so sure it is Not the switches. Test the Winder motor by applying 12v to it's motor.  I've often surprised my self with this test.... After having  cleaned adjusted the switch pack.

10
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Thermostat
« on: 17 August 2011, 01:27:20 AM »
T-stat opens @ 89 but the normal coolant temp is maintained at about 100-110 C.

Ermm.. sort of accurate  ::)  the Fan is a failsafe  to control MAX temperature so the thing does not overtemp ..Only.
 
IF you were not getting enough heat with a 82 c Thermostat  and you don't reside above the arctic circle..then there are genuine issues with your car  :)

11
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Thermostat
« on: 06 July 2011, 05:18:01 PM »
What's the reasoning behind the theory of a higher temp thermostat cause more wear?

It's not actually a theory it was 'proven' decades ago . Google is our friend . 
Somehow, like silly and perennial  "oil' arguements.... everyone has their own pet beliefs :-)
Oddly I've recently been informed that the IDEAL operating temp for My Yamaha is actually 50 C (race track/dyno proven) rather than the oem 80C Doesn't that seem even more counterintuitive  ? :-)
ECU has a reasonable range of operational temps in it's maps,  a non issue.

12
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Thermostat
« on: 05 July 2011, 03:29:53 AM »
NO!! Buy and use the 80C thermostat.
Higher temp ones will only wear out your engine quicker.

13
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: 9K Alarm
« on: 05 July 2011, 03:23:23 AM »
Small point ; VSS is the imobiliser portion of the Ecu alarm interface.. 'engine imobiliser'  function in English.
 It can only be activated/deactivated with access to the ECU program. T5 suite is your friend :-)
 Often 'alarm' issues can be a simple as bad batteries in the Key Fob remote.
Replace those FIRST then post back.
 Not certain itwill fix your issues , regardless those batteries need changing out semi regularly, so no loss either way.
Europarts wants several $ each for the batteries. Local Mountaineering shop charges $2 for the pair..  same brand :-) shop carefully.
 

14
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: 9000 Buying Guide
« on: 30 June 2011, 03:54:59 PM »
Number of previous owners is Critical.  Fewer owners is Key.  All else follows.
 Original owners,, who paid full ticket usually take V good care, Second owners likewise to a similar degree, But by the time one is into the 4th owner , maintenance is sporadic at best. These cars require maintenance semi regularly.
  Also when one buys a $40K (when New) car for $2000 or less there is rarely much love/respect involved.
A 'beater' gets beaten on :-)

15
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Knackered engine mounts on an auto?
« on: 30 June 2011, 03:49:12 PM »
 Upper TQ arm (dogbone :-) Rubbers fail with time and as mentioned above, if not soon replaced, cause the front lower Hyd engine mount to fail... first. Rearward motor rocking under power (allowed by iffy dogbone rubbers) creates upward forces which tears the forward mount.
 Trans mounts seem to only 'drop' a bit as they age. I've yet to see a torn one in 27 (yikes!) years of fooling with Saabs.
 First step is to repair or rplace the upper mount rubbers. (inserting strips of heater hose into the rubber voids works surprisingly well. Yes! it's Hillbilly but nonetheless, quite effective :-)
 Avoid the urethane mounts as in my experiences they cause more issues than they solve.

Pages: [1]