Messages

1

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Changing out the turn signal/cruise control switch

« on: 03 September 2012, 11:52:58 AM »

Connieman,

I'll go with alang on this one.  Fairly straightforward though you need to be careful not to crack the cowling.  It can be a bit of a fiddle to get off and on.  The wiring connectors are quite tight, and, if I remember correctly need a little screwdriver to unclip the ends to allow them to be removed.  Just a couple of Torx screws hold the lever in place.

Paul @ Kippen.

2

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: 9000 Aero clutch problem

« on: 15 August 2012, 09:31:45 AM »

carrera,

Failure of the flexible section between the master and slave cylinders is fairly well known.  If you get an assistant to get their head down in the correct area they should hear a faint 'hiss' when the clutch pedal is held depressed.  However, in action, the symptoms are that you press the clutch, select gear and without lifting your foot off the pedal the clutch gradually self engages.  Pumping the pedal will disengage again.  Real fun in traffic !

Paul @ Kippen.

3

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: 9000 Aero clutch problem

« on: 13 August 2012, 09:34:50 AM »

carrera,

It seems to me that you have a mechanical problem with the clutch, rather than a hydraulic one.  I think the clue lies with the fact that two clutch plates have lost the friction material from one side.  A little assymetric wear is normal, one side wearing slightly faster than the other but not to that degree.  I get the feeling that the flywheel may have a rough patch.  You did replace the pressure plate, didn't you ?

I think what is happening is that when the engine is stationary, the clutch disengages properly.  Once running, as soon as you engage the clutch, the roughness catches on the friction material and sort of 'locks' the plate to whichever side is the problem.

You might need to get the flywheel ground flat, or if it is the other side which gets ripped apart, fit a new pressure plate.

As I reread this I also would consider looking for a wear lip on the input shaft on the gearbox.  This could jam the plate against one side or the other.  If so you might get away with some gently filing of the edge of the 'lip but really you could be looking at a box rebuild and shaft replacement.

Paul @ Kippen.

4

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: More fun: Right-side carrier bracket

« on: 26 June 2012, 09:40:02 AM »

millster,

It's a while since I looked in this area but my memories are that the engine mount retaining nut is REALLY tight and space is a bit limited to get decent purchase on it.  Also the intermediate shaft end bearing carrier gets in the way so will probably have to come out as well.  The shaft is splined at both ends so no need to move the 'box. 

To release the inner 'spider' joint, you need to unbolt the track control arm ball joint at the bottom of the strut to allow you to swing it out thus allowing the joint to come apart.  Have a couple of poly bags and some cable ties handy to wrap the end of the shaft and the 'socket' to prevent contamination.

PAul @ Kippen.

5

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Outer CV boot renewal

« on: 13 June 2012, 09:40:55 AM »

Phoenix,

Never tried a stretchy boot but I've heard that they are pretty good.  You just need a degree of faith that they will stretch far enough.   Split boots - only in an emergency - it does exactly what it says on the tin - splits.

Any time I've done a CV joint it's been a real pig getting the circlip out.  I've tried all sorts of maneouvers but generally resort to destroying the old circlip getting it out.

Biggest problem I've found is the fact that the stub axle through the wheel bearing is REALLY tight.  It has been flooded with adhesive on assembly.  You need to disconnect the bottom ball joint so that you can release the inner spider joint, then re-attach the ball joint again so that you have something to purchase against.  Now get a really BIG hammer and a good solid drift to knock it out.  Even once it starts to move you might find that it needs hammering all the way out.

Now clean out all the remaining adhesive from the splines, on the stub axle and in the hub.  I used a small needle file and just picked away at it.  You might need to dress the end of the threads where you hit it to get past the first damaged thread.

Cut off the remains of the old boot, clean out as much of the old grease as you can but don't wash out with parafin, petrol of the like.  Not unless you feel up to stripping the balls out and dismantling the whole joint.  Boy is it fun puting it back together again !

Pack with new grease from the CV joint boot kit and slip the new boot over the inner shaft.   Fit a new circlip and reinsert the shaft into the joint.  You should feel a positive 'click' as the circlip snaps into the land on the shaft.  Boot back in place with new cable ties.  ( I've never had much luck with the fancy metal clips they supply.)

Now, with some luck, the splines slide back into the hub without too much persuasion.  You'll not get the centre nut tightened until everything else is reassembled and the wheel is back on the ground.  I seem to remember that it requires about 300 Nm torque but best to check.  I managed to borrow a suitable torque wrench to do the job.  But I guess 14 stones on the end of a 2 foot bar won't be too far off.

Paul @ Kippen.

6

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Immobiliser immobilised

« on: 16 May 2012, 09:39:03 AM »

Guys,

My Aero has only ever had one key fob which I have nursed solicitously these 5 years or so.  Resoldering connections as necessary and finding the little ways to tweak it when it acts up.  However, last Thursday, after filling up at the local T***o it just wouldn't play ball.  All that the usual fiddling managed was for the green light to come on permanently.  Took the batteries out to prevent burn out and ended up with a dead thing.  Even bought new batteries.  Had to call out the Very very nice Man in his yellow van to tow me home.  - Oh,  the shame !

Saturday's fiddling with a meter didn't seem to show much, power to the board OK and to just about every point on the circuit board.  More by luck,  in fact completely by luck, it started flashing as desired.  Took it outside and Hey Presto it works again. So the car is again usable, but I have a certain nervousness every time I go to use it.  Will it,  won't it ?

I do possess a 'spare' ECU, VSS chip and matched remote but am planning to fit it to my most recent aquisition, a 2.3 LPT.  I'm pretty sure that I can fit the 'new' VSS chip to the Aero and use the matching remote but will need to disable the 'bit' in the 'new' ECU so that it will run in the LPT.  This one didn't come fitted with VSS so no loss of functionallity.

Does anyone know how to access the code ( I presume Tech II is required ) and which 'bit' needs disabled ?

Paul @ Kippen.

7

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Help required - aux belt job

« on: 16 May 2012, 09:37:41 AM »

Dave,

Give me a call.  07801 059753

Paul @ Kippen.

8

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: erratic temp and fuel gauges

« on: 25 April 2012, 09:22:49 AM »

chris,

I think I just answered this on another forum.

Paul @ Kippen.

9

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: 9000 bottom windscreen rust

« on: 14 April 2012, 11:34:42 AM »

saab9000aero2.3

I'm scrapping a '95 LPT and was thinking of taking out the windscreen to keep as a spare so the bottom scuttle section will be available for examination if you want it,

Paul @ Kippen.

10

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Changing handbrake cable

« on: 08 April 2012, 03:27:53 PM »

paddysaab,

You can fiddle things through without taking the seats out.  Though I've done this job a few times I can't remember all the details.  To me that means it was fairly obvious and straightforward.  One thing I do remember is to attach a piece of stout wire to the end of the old cable at the handbrake end.  Use the old cable to pull it through then use the wire to pull the new one in.  This gets around all the monkeying about trying to get the cable above the tank.  I've known people drop the tank to get it back in.

Paul @ Kippen.

11

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Cruise control not working ?ECU problem

« on: 04 April 2012, 09:25:20 AM »

Mick,

See reply on 'other' forum.

Paul @ Kippen

12

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: refugee from saabscene - starter motor "grinding" noise

« on: 03 April 2012, 09:26:46 AM »

Chris B,

Fairly straightforward to change the starter.  It lives down the back of the engine at the gearbox end.  I seem to remember that it has 3 retaining bolts -  not counting the electrical connections.  Best to start by disconnecting the battery.  Then whip off the ignition controlled wire to the solenoid then the heavy connector that runs directly to the battery.

The 3 bolts are a bit fiddly to get at and at least 1 is an 18mm.  After you get them out you need to juggle things about a bit to get it out.

Paul @ Kippen

13

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: 1995 CSE Clutch Nightmare!

« on: 31 March 2012, 04:47:52 PM »

millster,

If  you ever have to bleed the clutch again then invest in a 50 ml syringe to 'back bleed' from the slave cylinder end.  Either that or find a way to get the nose of the car high in the air.  ( I drive to my local garage - clutchless changes ! ) and stick the front wheels on the hydraulic ramp.  Lift until the rear valance is almost on the ground then bleed with a standard pressure bleeder.

The problem is the geometry of the master cylinder which is positioned with a significant downward aspect.  Since the fill point from the reservoir is in the top corner air just shuttles back and forward as you pump the pedal.  The pressure bleeder doesn't generate sufficient flow to carry air from the master to the slave.  Getting the nose in the air puts the outlet from the master at the highest point.  Easy to get the air out through the slave and bleed nipple.

Paul @ Kippen.

14

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: 1995 CSE Clutch Nightmare!

« on: 27 March 2012, 09:21:24 AM »

millster,

You shouldn't need to turn the flywheel to get the splines on the input to align with the plate ones.  With the 'box not in gear, the shaft will move easily enough to allow engagement.  Even if it didn't, you could stick it in gear and twist the drive shaft on the side you can get at.  You sometimes need to do that anyway to get the intermediate shaft to engage anyway.

Paul @ Kippen.

15

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: 1995 CSE Clutch Nightmare!

« on: 26 March 2012, 09:21:46 AM »

Millster,

I have swapped a few gearboxes in 9000s over the years and never found that jacking it up was a good way of getting it back in place.  It really is much easier to lift from above.  What I generally do is to get a decent strop around the box, get up on top of the engine, one foot on the bonnet slam panel, the other on the strut top.

Wearing a pair of leather rigger gloves, just lift it up.  Have your worthy assistance ( in my case Mrs P @ K ) locate the box on a pair of long studs fitted to the top two bolts holes in the block.  At least now you can rest before wriggling the box along the studs ( just long bolts of the correct diameter and thread with the heads cut off ).  There are two parts to get to engage, the clutch spline and the differential to intermediate drive shaft.

Once in place do up a couple of bolts and remove the temporary studs.  The rest is just reassembly.

Paul @ Kippen.