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Messages - steve.pocock

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1
I had this problem for over 2 years and replaced \EGR valve, inlet manifold, clutch & DMF, alternator, cambelt, 3 lots of diagnostics (including Saab dealership in-depth examination), used only BP Premium fuel - the full Monty. All with only minor improvement>

BUT since reading on forums about the MAP sensor next to the EGR valve, I took this out, cleaned with carb cleaner and........

HEY PRESTO! Problem cured! Have since done around 300 miles of mixed driving and no sign of hesitation. Also find it runs better in all gears, pulls as I had hoped from the start, quieter and fuel economy where it should be.

My advice to others is to clean (or better replace for £29.10 + VAT from Bosch dealer) the MAP sensor, clean the EGR valve as detailed on forums and save the £1500 odd that I wasted in trying track this simple fix down.

2
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / 9-3 1.9 Tid 150BHP EGR valve
« on: 16 March 2016, 10:19:19 PM »
Still got the hesitation at 2000 - 3000rpm and had a thought....

When the EGR valve was replaced, I don't know if the garage looked into the pipework running into the valve. If they just replaced the pipe, is it likely that the pipework is blocked with gunge and that means that even the new EGR valve is working as it should???

Also seen on another site "With the engine cover still off - front right - small reverse 'c' shaped rubber pipe - vacuum hose. Bottom was
 perished, letting air leak in (or out?) - replaced the rubber pipe." Is this another real possibility?

Still searching for the answer........

3
I have much the same hesitating problem but at 2750 rpm usually - again not all the time, but on nearly every trip at some point. I've sorted swirl flaps, new EGR valve and no. 3 injector so wonder if it may be just dirty injectors. I've heard good reports of Fuel Injector cleaner additives in the past - has anyone tried that? And did it work?

4
I bought my 56 1.9 Tid 150bhp saloon in Oct 2013 with just 50k miles and in excellent condition. It all looked very good and a good deal. My daughter had one and we were impressed with that. However, with just an extra 13k miles on it since then, these have gone wrong:

Alternator replaced (on Day 2 of ownership after total breakdown)
Injector No. 3 wiring fault - replaced with used part from later (better design?)
Cambelt replaced as no evidence of having been done - to be safe, water pump, aux belt and EGR valve done at the time
Rear parking sensors don't work in the rain
Swirl flap mechanism repaired as 2 links were broken/fallen off
Front drop links replaced to cure knocking noise - garage repair needed as old ones had seized bolts
Awful radio reception
Engine interference through radio - whining, buzzing with engine speed
2 rear tyres - Ok that's to be expected, but fronts are nearly gone now
Drivers window motor packed up - another used part repaired it
Hesitation intermitently despite using only BP standard fuel
Electrical boxes under the seats won't fix to brackets
Seat height adjustment is wierd - tips up when you expect it to go down so getting a comfortable setting is near impossible.

In short, really disappointing - I bought this to get a reliable, low mileage car , good mpg that went well enough that would last me a few years. Instead its unreliable, unfixable without spending the value of the car again. My impression is that the sophisticated diesel engine is too highly stressed to get the performance and mpg that attracted me - that makes it too fragile. 63k miles is nothing these days, but I have lost confidence in the thing. Real shame as it could be a cracking car, but do I want to spend every spare minute and £££££s getting it just to work properly? One has to admit defeat at a certain point and cut your losses.

I'm looking for a 120d BMW.........

5
Welcome! :)


The inside of the mirror would be the place to start as the heating element itself is the most vulnerable.  You have to remove the mirror glass first and then look at the two connectors on the back to see if power is reaching the heating element.  If not, work your way back.

There are a lot of random pictures of the mirror and how to get it aparthere   It's from my 9-5, but the mirror heads are identical and the fixing to the door is only three screws.   The black and brown wires are the heater.  The others are for the auto dimming function.  Also the mirror in the picture are folding ones.  But the basic bits are the same.

Attached is a wiring diagram.  Item 702 is the "Door Module" which is the electronic box in each door immediately under the the window switches.


sgould

That's really useful - thanks. I'll take it apart and fiddle with the multi meter...........


6
Has had a new fuel filter 6 months ago.

The swirl flap mechanism was repaired by local garage and remains fine.

I'm thinking that there may be another faulty injector wiring connector which is faulty, but that's nothing more than an idea.

7
Sorry -posted this query in the wrong bit........

Any ideas on this one?
 
My 2006 1.9 Tid 150 bhp saloon hesitates every so often, most usually at around 2750rpm. I only use BP normal diesel, and have had the following done recenlty:-
EGR valve
cambelt
water pump
no. 3 injector wiring connector replaced and others  cable tied in place
swirl flaps linkage repaired and working
Oil and air and fuel filters

Only done 63k miles

Is used on good long runs regualrly (did 230 miles today) and revved well every week to keep emission systems clear

rarely happens when cruising in 6th gear on motorways

Is it worth buying a £15 diagnostic thingy from Ebay?

8
On signal quality.  The AM aerial in the rear window is amplified. It's some of the brown "wires" at the top of the rear screen that look like heating elements but don't heat up.  Are they intact? Any scratch that has broken them?  They can be repaired with metallic repair paint.

The FM signal is filtered to separate it from the electrics, but the aerial is also the heated rear screen.  There's the amp on the right and a filter to earth on the left behind the rear pillar trims.

Check it all works.

I suspect the ariel and/or filter is not working on mine - loads of engine electrics interferenece and rubbish radio FM reception. sgould suggests 'checking it all works' - aside from checking connectors/earths, what can I do to check?

9
Mines packed up - any clues on what to check first?  Fuse is OK - at least one bit of the saab isn't busted..........

10
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / 150 bhp diesel hesitation
« on: 20 January 2015, 10:43:08 PM »
Any ideas on this one?
 
My 2006 1.9 Tid 150 bhp saloon hesitates every so often, most usually at around 2750rpm. I only use BP normal diesel, and have had the following done recenlty:-
EGR valve
cambelt
water pump
no. 3 injector wiring connector replaced and others  cable tied in place
swirl flaps linkage repaired and working
Oil and air and fuel filters

Only done 63k miles

Is used on good long runs regualrly (did 230 miles today) and revved well every week to keep emission systems clear

rarely happens when cruising in 6th gear on motorways

Is it worth buying a £15 diagnostic thingy from Ebay?




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