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Messages - handjammer

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1
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: No first gear
« on: 10 June 2013, 08:59:54 PM »
How odd - today I have lost the use of 2nd gear - after a conversation with Neo's this afternoon I have ordered a new clutch kit. Having read this thread I will also ask my mechanic to replace the gearbox oil too.

I'll also try pumping the clutch tomorrow as all other gears work fine. I am seriously hoping the problem isn't more sinister - if I'm facing a £1.5 - 2k rebuild then I will have to get rid of the car!

2
Hi guys,

An update on the situation with my Aero.

After breaking down just before Christmas and being towed to the garage, I have only just got my car back. I appreciate that the time of year didn't help much, what with holidays and that - still, it's here.

The garage called me to say that they had found a hole in the intercooler, and that the turbo boost control valve was also faulty, together with labour over 500 euros.

I found a secondhand I/C from the 'bay which reduced my bill hugely. Anyway, the upshot of all this is that my car works, and drives better than it ever has (well, for me, at least.)  It boosts just into the red, and now I can drive it properly without the peakiness and over-carefulness I was having to use with the boost / jolting horrors.

They showed me the two parts - the boost valve just looked tatty really, but the I/C was buckled and warped on one side.

I am hopeful now that the car is sorted, and can at last enjoy the car I wanted. That doesn't mean to say though that I don't anticipate more "challenges!"

Cheers chaps, thank you all once again for all of your help. This site is absolutely brilliant!

3
Aaaarrgghh, this sodding car!!  Driving home this afternoon, accelerating (not hard) down a straight, the engine started to shudder and the CEL was blinking. I backed off, and all returned to normal until I stopped at a junction and all power was lost, and the engine died. I managed to get it started again and limp it off the road.

I called ADAC, who I have to say were absolutely fantastic (3 phone calls to keep me updated of the situation), but unfortunately they were unable to do a roadside fix, so then I had to wait to be towed to a garage. More expense to follow no doubt.

The ADAC chap plugged the car into his laptop, and I watched as he perused the engine monitoring - really interesting stuff. I mentioned the new DIC which was fitted the other day, so he checked the cylinder readings ( I don't know what the figures mean) and he assured me that all was ok.  However, as he was revving the engine hard the turbo reading was barely moving, and he said it should be moving around far more than it was, indicating, in his view, a problem with the turbo itself (it'd better not be), or a sensor (better).

I've just about had enough now, there's always something, and it never seems to end, especially taking in to account all the money I've spent on it so far. I don't want to come across as though I'm grumbling but at the moment I'm pretty pee'd off with the expensive silver thing in the garage (either mine or someone else's).

I'm sure the garage will tell me tomorrow exactly what the problem is together with the requisite expense.

BTW Audax, I've checked all the hoses and can't find anything amiss. Hopefully it might be this turbo issue which is the root cause of all the problems.

I think I'll have a beer and calm down now...

4
To be honest, I have no idea where fuse 17 is, but I disconnected the battery while I did the work, so it was probably disconnected for about 20 minutes - I work slowly, didn't want to make any mistakes!

Will this have had the same effect as pulling the fuse?

5
Hi again,

I received a new DI cassette from Neo Bros the other day, and fitted it to the car. I left the old spark plugs in (they looked ok and have only covered around 3-4000 miles maximum since the other DIC was fitted, but will change them later).  I took the car out for a test drive and it was much smoother, both idling, at low speeds and under acceleration - no shuddering at all.  I'm really amazed at such an instantaneous improvement to be honest.

However, when I put my foot down hard, and the turbo reaches the same level as before, I still get the jolting happening. Any ideas?

I was really hoping the new DI would solve the whole issue!

6
I don't know if you've sorted your alarm out, but I used to be a professional alarm and CCTV installer so feel free to PM me if you have any queries, I'll happily help if I can.


7
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Maptun exhaust systems
« on: 01 December 2012, 08:12:51 PM »
Hello all,

I will shortly be needing a new back box to pass my MOT equivalent, Saab kindly quoted in excess of £520 (hmmm), so unsurprisingly I have been looking further afield.

I was thinking of replacing it with a cat back system (my thinking being that if the back box is currently shot it won't be long until the other bits need doing), and I've seen the Maptun exhausts on that auction site.

Before I take £300 or so worth of plunge I thought I would check in with the immense pool of knowledge and experience from the goodly people on this site. So what are your thoughts- good, bad, value for money etc?

Thanks guys.

8
Hi,

Interesting info about the boost controller, if I knew where it was I would check it out! Seems strange that immediately after the mechanic made the top turbo pipe fit snugly the gauge went into the red and the jolting started, it's almost as if the problem had existed undetected for ages.

As I'm in Germany the last few tankfuls have been 102 octane, partly because I can, and also I read somewhere that the higher octane burns more cleanly and more efficiently and so is better for the engine. I also read that the Trionic system will work out what fuel is in the tank and adjust things accordingly. All far too technical for me though!

Yesterday I ordered a new (Saab) DI and NGK plugs so let's see...

I'd just like to say a huge thank you to all of you who have taken the time not only to read, but also to comment and advise on my non-techically minded ramblings! I really do appreciate your help - thank you all.

9
Hi Audax,

It's not a genuine Saab DI, not sure of the make. I'm going to order a new, genuine one tomorrow- is the correct part number 55559955 do you know?

In the last couple of days the shuddering which my wife mentioned to me has become worse, so I hope the new coil pack will sort it out. Also, as my plugs are only 6 months old would it be necessary to change them for new ones?

10
Hello again.

My code reader has arrived and I ran it through the car, and it came up with code P1302, which after a bit of Internet search-ery tells me that it is a cylinder 2 misfire. After reading all the various diagnoses I think my DIC must be at fault, even though it and the plugs are only 6 months old.

My wife drove it the other day and she said it was shuddering slightly at low speeds, but fine under gentle acceleration. I don't notice it, I suppose being the main driver of the car I'm used to it.

My non-expert opinion is the DIC, any other thoughts please?

Thanks all.

11
Gents, thank you both. I've seen the Skandix site before, it looks good, and thanks for the German links, that's really helpful.

With what sgould said earlier about the boost being too high, that is making me wonder about it being remapped too. How could I check? Unfortunately I don't know the history of the car; when I bought it there was only a little bit of service history with it, however I saw from the service book it's been done every 8000 miles or so, and so was happy to proceed with the purchase. I've had a 900 before, loved it, and was always looking out for an Aero. If only I'd known the ensuing pain...

I'm more than sure that this won't be cheap to fix, but I have the bit between my teeth now!

12
I'm in the north, near Bremen. I've seen the Saab parts dealers you've mentioned, as parts from the main dealer are astronomical. I picked up a secondhand exhaust manifold from ebay for £30, and paid £60 or so to have it changed over here. Saab in York quoted me over a grand - yeah right!

I'm waiting for the reader to arrive in the post,  I'll connect it and see what it says, and then report back.

Until then, please accept my sincere thanks for your help and advice.

Cheers.

13
Forgot to say, when I was replacing the hoses, I noticed that the white valve hose under the crankcase cover has broken. I've bodged it for now, but would that not be helping either? What effect would this have?

I will obviously replace it in due course, along with the exhaust, wing mirror, etc etc...

If I didn't laugh about it, I might well cry!!

14
Thanks for replying. The gauge previously did reach that orange/red boundary but now goes way beyond. Interesting, also too that when I get the jerking motion there is no engine check light staying on, it just blinks sometimes.

I have just bought an OBD2 reader in the hope this will give me more info, and I hope (but I've no idea) that it will include some Saab specific codes to point me in the right direction.

My garage isn't a Saab specialist, just a generic, albeit good, garage. The other issue is that I live in Germany, and my German isn't fantastic! Saab here are absolutely extortionate - they wanted 1400 euros, plus tax at 20 per cent, just for one xenon headlight!

So, is there any point in checking the turbo actuator? All the mechanic did was to put some silicon-type stuff around the top pipe, as he was able to pull it in and out easily, and he said it should be a snug fit.  As I say, after that I am able to get far more umph, but I'm starting to think this will damage the engine. Lovely car, but both a blessing and a curse!

15
Hi guys,

I am new to this forum but  I'm experiencing exactly the same problem with the 2004 Aero I purchased 6 months ago. It has 108k on the clock, and has already cost me a bit with a new DIC, ABS ring, cracked exhaust manifold replaced, plus lots of garage time (expense!).

When I got the car and drove it for the first time it was great, although not as fast as I'd hoped. Interestingly, the last in my already long list of engine check lights revealed that I had an air leak, which emanated from the top pipe from the turbo (well done my garage for finding this!), which resulted in the engine being MUCH more responsive and now the turbo easily reaches the end of the red, whereas it never even went into the red before.  The problem I have now is a new one - when nearing the end of the red I have this same jolting effect as described above, in any gear, at any speed. When I let off the throttle the problem goes away, and if I drive the car gently I have no trouble whatsoever.

A search of these, and other Saab forums at the weekend pointed me in several deirections. I'm by no means mechanically orientated, but I'll have a go at certain things, so I replaced all the vacuum hoses with silicon ones. This has made a slight improvement, but I'm no closer to having the acceleration the car is capable of. Next I'll look at the turbo actuator, beyond that it's getting too technical for me.

Technical question - what would I notice as a driver if the engine is misfiring, and is this something I must rectify immediately? I bet it's not cheap either!

I love the car, but I don't think my wife feels the same as I seem to be constantly shelling out on it.

Thanks guys, I appreciate any help you can give me.

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