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Messages - Max Headroom

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Thule 532 Freeride carriers x2

Clearing out a few things in the shed today and I realise I still have two unopened and boxed, Thule Freeride 532 bicycle carriers.

70 for the pair.

Alas, I can't fit these on my Suzuki Jimny, so they're up for grabs.
I think they go for around 50 each, new.

Can be collected from GL541AP (North Cotswolds)

Advertised elsewhere so be quick if you want them.
No takers? These will go on fleabay tonight. (30th Jun)

Suzuki Jimny  ;D


Take a look in Halfrauds - there are light lens polishing kits by Meguiars and Autoglym that consist of acrylic polish and suitable Micromesh type polishing papers.
Meguiars kit
Autoglym kit

In the past I have very successfully used These kits for aircraft canopies but although fantastic they are expensive.

You could try just T-cut or even Brasso instead of proper Acrylic polish such as Greygates, but if the lens surface  feels rough you will need the micromesh abrasives, starting with the most coarse, rubbing down with the acrylic polish supplied until you are using the smoothest, then follow up using just the acrylic polish and a microfibre cloth


Hello Pete - interesting read that!

Thanks for your PM regarding this fault - hopefully you found my reply. Sadly I've not got the SAAB anymore, I'm now not doing the miles to justify the cost - I miss it though.
Now driving around in the slowest most rickety car on the planet but hell. its so much fun and can literally go anywhere; its very capable!


I now refer to my wife in the old American Indian tradition; she's known as "Five Horses"


"Nag, Nag Nag, Nag, Nag"

Cleaning and Detailing / Re: That old mini cab aura!!!!
« on: 06 November 2018, 11:17:31 AM »

....But did it work?

Cleaning and Detailing / Re: That old mini cab aura!!!!
« on: 24 October 2018, 12:40:35 AM »
I've found the biggest culprit for nasty niffs in any car I've had is, more often than not, the mats and/or the seats - particularly if they are fabric seats.

Car mats will clean superbly and be 'fresh' if you wash them with a wet/dry vacuum cleaner such as a VAX.
You will be stunned at the amount of grit/sh*t/dirt that comes out of them. I have a narrow cleaning-head for the job rather than a full-width one for domestic carpets in the house.
This small cleaning-head is about 4" wide, and is brilliant for leaving stripes in your mats  (like a mown lawn!).

People sweat. So washing cloth seats is a must, and can be done using the same small cleaning-head and the VAX this will eliminate a lot of smells.

The other bit that gets neglected is the headlining. More care needs to be taken here as it can be more fragile, so I do this by hand with a sponge and hot(ish) soapy water

A big plus for cleaning the Air Con with those cans but I found that it needed to be done several times.


I just used a screwdriver - place the tip of the screwdriver at various points on the engine and place ear on the end of the screwdriver handle; not comfortable but works reasonably well.
I found this accurate enough to locate which tappets needed adjusting on a 4cyl engine.

Out of interest, a friend of mine whom is profoundly deaf through a serious illness in his teenage years, tunes his MG Y-type by feel!


That sounds like what I had  - not quite limp mode but slooow.

I took my egr valve apart and freed it up  -there is an article on how to do this on one of the Vauxhall forums - its very easy. The egr valve lasted a good couple more years but failed me again so I replaced it with a s/h item a friend gave me.

Alternatively blank the damned thing off

I sold another spare egr valve that I had but still have some blanks kicking around in my workshop somewhere, if you fancy going down that route

Useful info - not heard of Bigg red before but thier site looks very interesting for future reference! 

Cleaning and Detailing / Re: Leather seat repairs
« on: 17 July 2018, 10:14:10 PM »

Strange that he gives no address in his contact details; there must be a workshop somewhere!

I'd say definitely worth a punt, the work looks very good

Cant beat a good bit of BeBop - or Hard Bop, even better! I like most stuff from Haydn to Hendrix, Rachmananov to Rush, Bach to Black Sabbath - just so long as it hasn't fallen from the bowels of X-Factor..

Windscreen - it's smeary because of the Rain-X not the glass cleaner; go to the Range store and get a bottle of 'Bar Keeper's Friend' its a bottle of powder that you mix a small amount with a drop of water and using a pad or cloth, get that dreadful RainX off the glass - nothing much can touch Rain-X once its on unfortunately; even MEK (Methylethylketone) won't get it off.
Also you can try try silicone remover from Screwfix; I've heard that can remove it.
You may need to clean the screen several times with the Barkeeper's Friend.
Rain-X is only for the sidewindows and rear windscreen in my opinion; once it starts wearing it does become dangerously smeary. Clean the wiper blades groove with a nail brush and shampoo. Next time you change the blades get the Bosch flat blade equivelant.

Wheels - polish and waxes won't tolerate the temperatures from the brakes; you'll  need to use a sealant.
Try Planet Polish wheel sealant or Poorboys wheel sealant. I use Planet Polish but my neighbour swears by Poorboy's - I've not used it.

Price at The Range

Price in Lakeland!

I'm off to dig out my Horace Silver and John Coltrane albums now  8) 8) 8)

Hello again!

I've not tried the Blu-tak method - I can't see why it wouldnt work other than blue tak would be more 'squishy' than a proper detailing clay.

Claying the paintwork is an effective way of removing tar and tree sap. Tree sap is not that visible.
But to stop the clay sticking, a clay kit will supply you with a clay 'lube'.
If you run out of clay lube you can make your own with some Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner mixed with water in a spray bottle or you could use a mix of a couple of small capfuls of car shampoo. Water on its own doesn't work too well.

I dont carry out claying every time I wash the car - probably once a month or once every couple of months - I guess its all about how much youre into having a really clean car - some people dont do any of this stuff!

My Routine is as follows

1) Pressure wash the car. Knock as much dirt and crap off as you can. In the wheelarches, underneath  - everywhere!

2) Using the pressure washer, apply a thick blanket of Snow-Foam; leave it for a few mins to 'fall off' the car pulling dirt with it as it drips off (While I fill my buckets is time for me)

3) Pressure wash again, removing the last of the snow-foam

4) Using the "two buckets method with Grit-guards" wash the car with shampoo (I like Mequiars Gold Class) a lambswool wash-mitt (dont buy Halfords lambswool mitts - they fall to pieces - I have Meguiars ones). Start at the top and work down as more grit will be on the lower paintwork. Dont forget the door, boot and bonnet shuts; fuel filler cap door; bottoms of doors etc. I always leave the wheels to the very last.

5) GENTLY pressure-wash the last of the shampoo off the car with a fine mist rather than a blast, and until all trace of soap has gone

6) Dry the car with large blue fluffy microfibre drying towels

7) Polish - Apply with foam applicator (I use Autoglym Super Resin Polish - it fills fine scratches quite well and gives a small amount of protection) Leave it to dwell for about 30 mins or so before buffing off with midrofibre cloths. Work it well into scratched areas; it will build up and may remove a light scratch.

8 ) Wax - Apply with foam applicator (white or silver cars benefit from Colinite 845 Insulator Wax - it gives a great "wet" shine). Let it dwell for 40 mins or so. Buff with fresh Microfibre cloths.

9) I sometimes apply a second coat of wax.

10) Using Kimberly Clark Wypall blue roll paper, clean all the glass. I like the Halfords glass cleaner in the green bottle - its dramatically good. Or Meguirs glass cleaner.

11) Use a tyre dressing to black up the tyres - it really finishes and sets off the whole jlook of a cleaned car!

Mechanical polishers need polish and waxes suited to that method due to the heat that can be generated.

A lot of this is trial and error - you may prefer different polishes for darker colours. You may hate washing your car and never do any of this!

Create an account on Detailing World and use the search function to speed up the trial and error routine! But be warned - detailing can become quite addiictive.

There is also a new school-of-thought on not using the two-bucket method, or even using shampoo...

Two Bucket method

Alternative Method


the best place to start looking for those answers is  Detailing World. There is a lot to know and learn.

BTW 400 was relatively cheap - I know that  a professional full internal and external detailing can cost well over 1k  ???

Sgould is right - paint depth is important if you are using mechanical polishers because you can go through the paint with those! He's also right about polishes being fillers.

I'm just about to set off for work, but can add a few tips here later, because in actual fact, its not all bad news!
Dark colours however, are more prone to showing up fine scratching, but on the plus side a dark colour will always look more shiny than a light colour; white and silver are notoriously difficult to make look shiny


Thats a big +1 from me for Scotty in WinPatrol  ;) :)   Woof!

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