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Messages - sgould

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I would avoid.  You will always need two keys and they are not reprogrammable, so new needed.  That's £100, plus ignition module and probably the CIM.  If you go new you are looking at around £500 on top with no guarantee of a result. Second hand CIM is probably OK, but you need the one that matches the car.  Not 100% sure if the (cheaper) new ones fit the older cars, but you do need to match the ESP/no ESP and possibly petrol/diesel too.

I know little about the modern diesels.  But does the pump need marrying to the car with a Tech2.  I'm miles from home in the middle of Germany and don't have access to the Saab manuals.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« on: 12 September 2019, 11:40:07 AM »
If you tie the chain to the sprockets, it will keep the timing at that end, but once you remove the camshaft supports the chain could drop an you could lose the timing of the chain comes off the crankshaft. Some sort of wedge on the guides may hold it.

Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Re: Possible gearbox problem - no drive
« on: 11 September 2019, 07:50:36 AM »
Andrew (wrighar) rebuilt one some time ago and posted pictures.  It might have been back in the Saabscene days...

It's the sort of thing that Martin at Jamsaab in Bristol may have.  He has a website for info at but you have to phone him and speak.  He's normally working and you will probably need to leave a message and wait for a call-back.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« on: 09 September 2019, 12:13:44 AM »
If you poke a wire up the spigot on the oil filler you should find it's blanked off at the end.  The branch was only used on the 1998-2003 cars for the final upgrade to the PCV system.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« on: 07 September 2019, 10:05:03 AM »
The sludge issue was solved on the Dame Ednas by design and maintenance.  Sludge can still occur if the wrong oil is used.

Sludge on the early cars was caused by a combination of rubber particles from decaying rubber pipes in the breather system and semi-synthetic engine oil breaking down in the sump from the extreme heat from the adjacent exhaust catalytic converters.  From 2004 the breather pipes were mostly changed to hard plastic and all cars had fully synthetic oil specified. So the later cars still had a sludge risk if an owner used cheaper semi synthetic oil.

 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


But the 4mm minimum is a requirement in places that do require winter tyres during the winter period.  I was assuming that it's based on experience and advice from the manufacturer.

I was just commenting that the Cross Climates may not work this winter in the way that they did last winter, and I was wondering if the manufacturer had added the tread depth indicators for the 4mm  on those tyres as well as the 1.6mm normal depth indicators.   The winter tyres I have carry both indicators.  If my winter tyres were near the 4mm limit in the spring I would run them as summer tyres  until they had worn out.

The German system does not require the fitting of winter tyres in the winter period.  They legislate each year to set a winter period.  The only offences committed are if you continue to drive during that period if snow is falling, or lying on the road, and you do not have winter tyres fitted.  It is also an offence to get stranded due to lack of traction during that period if you do not have the correct tyres fitted, or winter equipment available.

That's the one.  It's usually the solder to the pins that go through the board and make the connection to the fuse board.  The cracks are difficult to see, but you may see some signs.  Best to try and do a quick melt of all the pins.  Don't overdo it, you just need to melt it, you don't want ot to run.

Depends on whether you want them as winter tyres.  Under the rules for winter/cold weather tyres they stop being winter tyre rated when the tread depth gets below 4mm.  They are then considered summer tyres until they get to the summer tyre legal limit of 1.6mm.  I assume the same applies to the Cross Climates?  Do they have the two different tread depth indicators that winter tyres have?

You need to prise the orange cover off. The cracks in the solder are around the pins in the circuit board that the cover clips on to. They may not be visible. But cracks are common.

What year is it?

Cars came with a bulb failure device. Look for the orange “relay” in the fuse box by the battery. The solder cracks and gives all sorts of odd headlamp faults. Re-melt the joints to the circuit board and see if that helps.

Around 2003/4 there was a fault in the headlamp connector. One of the pins could be pushed back and not make contact.

Announcements & Events / Sat 12th October - Saabs at the Ace Cafe.
« on: 02 September 2019, 10:07:58 PM »
Now a regular event. :)

Beds Bucks and Herts Group have organised a meet for Saabs at the Ace Cafe.

Meet from 11.00 am for lunch, coffee, etc.

Ace Cafe, North Circular Road, London NW10 7UD

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Have I been Hirsched ?
« on: 28 August 2019, 03:06:49 PM »
My picture was 18 months after fitting! :)

I was working then, so c. 30,000 miles?

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