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Messages - carrera

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Treat it, then seal it with a clear laqueer. It might bubble, it may not, only one way to find out

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« on: 28 February 2021, 12:25:09 AM »
Well, today the engine is out

Checked the compressions before removal. Looking good, 16 bar on 1-3, 14 bar on number 4

Here's a picture before the stripping started. Front & rear suspension legs are off. The boot carpet was easily visible  :'(

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« on: 26 February 2021, 11:31:29 PM »
Well, time for an update on this.

I decided that doing an engine rebuild (properly) would be quite expensive so have been hanging around waiting for another option.

Eventually, one turned up, in the form of a 2006 DE saloon that had failed the MOT on rear suspension mounting points. Mechanically good though, even if partially stripped.

I picked it up and after fixing a fuel tank leak  :o I put a DI cartridge on, swapped the fuel rail as the FPR was missing along with the plastic insert and then programmed an unpaired ECU, carefully removing the immobilisor  ;)

She fired up, seemed to run OK, so this weekend I'm aiming to do an engine transplant   

Thanks, I'll get the big bugger ordered then

I'll be careful with the board, but I've had to make track repairs in the past, so it's wouldn't be the first time. Working at this scale isn't too bad

That's great guys - I hadn't noticed the bands on the good board.

Now, given that this is a "known" problem any preference on which of these to go for


The battery has already been posted

No, none of the usual electrical burning smell at all

This was installed in '88 I think

Recordings were only viewable with a current subscription / viewing card anyway.

It's a spare hard disk

Put the little battery charger on it, it moved up to 15v after a couple of hours. Checked the battery and it was immediately down to 8.2v, so 2 cells down

I have ordered a new Yuasa battery - cheaper delivered than I paid from Maplins last time

It's an Optima panel, in the process of looking around for an engineers manual, I found some links for a YouTube video for Optima Plus, and then some links, including this one

and have you replaced the battery in the control panel in the last 5 years ? look at large resistor under keypad if its black/burnt time for a new control panel....

Other threads confirm that this resistor is part of the battery charging circuit.- and it's a common fault

Does that change/ influence my component buying decisions ?

A bit more lateral searching and I find this. Scoobydo123 seems to share my views on repairing things  :)

Any views on 67 ohms - stick with 2W, or go for a 5W version ???

Traditional lead acid...... replaced it once in 33 years

Left it connected to a jump starter overnight, up to 8v, so we'll see if it is interested in a proper charger today

I haven't checked voltage at the cables. The box is hardwired to the mains, so it's a fuse removal to be able to work safely on the system again

Easy stuff first, check the battery


I lso had a search & couldn't find anything

IIRC, the Sky boxes were simply a modulator / passthrough, no receiving ability


The voltage regs look poor because the metal keypad support goes between the heatsink & the board, so they are floating.

Those can be easily sorted, but I'm still not sure what I need to order to replace the greeny component. I put a meter across while I was doing the photo, it showed 56 ohms

The 12v battery is only showing 3.75v.I'll try & charge that up & see if it will hold a charge. Maybe that failed, maybe it pulled down because the charging circuit has failed ?

Here you go - there are no components on the reverse, the keypad is removed, to provide access to the damaged component

That's great I will need to get the soldering iron out then.

Would that also explain the mains hum it was exhibiting, not always, but sometimes. I thought it may be related to the charging of the back up battery ???

OK, I have not removed the component yet, is it likely that a rating will be on the underside

I thought the "wire wound" marking might be indicative of the type of component, perhaps not as obvious as I thought

Any ideas what the "47" indicates

I'm used to R1, C1, D1 etc, grasped out of that air that it might be indicating a 47 ohm resistor, but that just seems too simple and unexpected

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