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Topics - phoenix

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The main beam switch is intermittent. If it latches on, it won't then turn off (unless you turn the headlights off).

I see that the stalk is available as a separate part but it doesn't look like it has the switch in it. So, is it possible to just replace the switch part of the CIM, albeit with some disassembly?

Servicing the car yesterday, I noticed two pipes that appeared to have broken off down by the side of the air filter. I didn't see them when I did it last September, which was only a few months after I got the car.

They come up into the engine bay and seem to route into the PCV vent hoses so my thought was they might be related to the Evap system. From the WIS diagram it looks like they could be connect to the "service port". But why would they be down behind the air filter housing? I can't find any reference to the port in EPC, although WIS lists a procedure for changing it (but not as far as I can see, what its purpose is). I'm guessing that a fix may be to just join the pipes together?

Any thoughts?

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Edna Aero tyre sizes
« on: 28 August 2018, 10:31:52 AM »
WIS says that Aero model Ednas came with 235/45/17 only, but the 2.3T  could have those or 225/45/17.

Is there any reason that anyone can think of that I shouldn't fit 225s to an Aero- I ask because I have two new 225s in stock so to speak and also 225s are somewhat cheaper.

I must be missing something really obvious... other than disconnecting the battery, how do you zero the trip counter in the bottom right hand corner of the dash display opposite the mileometer

Looking at a colleague's car...

The remote locking behaves very oddly. Sometimes it will lock all the doors, sometimes it doesn't, but it always unlocks them (including if the driver's has been manually locked). More often than not, it is the drivers door that won't lock. I put Tech 2 on, no faults, and the lock/unlock switch on the inside of the door operates properly and works the lock motor.

I'm wondering if maybe the problem lies in the drivers door CL motor which AFAIK has integrated switches to determine the position of the lock.

The headlight main beam latch doesn't operate most of the time, but flash it fine. Sometimes by wriggling it around it will latch. The reading tallies with what I see on Tech 2, and I can also individually activate L&R main beam with Tech 2 so my first thought was it's the switch.  From what I can see, it requires the entire column module to be changed. Is this the case and are there any gotchas?

Now, there's a further potential factor in this... after a flattened battery was recharged, apparently it had a test done on it and whilst the CCA was fine, it was reported as being noisy. I've come across this before on another car; apart from starting etc. a critical function of the battery is to smooth the alternator output and reduce ripple etc. for the control modules. Now, whilst this makes absolute sense whilst the engine is running, the faults above all occur when it's not running so I don't think it's a factor but I'll chuck it in for completeness.

Classic Saab 9-3 & GM900 (MY 1994-2002/03CV) / C1377/C1390 ABS code
« on: 27 October 2017, 08:26:22 AM »
With it's MOT due tomorrow, yesterday eve the 9-3 decided to throw a wobbly with the ABS.  >:(

I pulled the codes:

C1377 (Wheel sensor front right no signal)
C1390 (Wheel sensor wrong number of teeth)

I cleared them but the C1377 persisted. Following WIS I read the voltage value and it was 0.8V, indicating a fault (open or short circuit).

Is this actually something that would clear once the car is driven? Or does anyone have experience of rectifying this?


Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / 9-5 Tracking/front suspension issues
« on: 04 October 2017, 10:54:43 AM »
I've been trying to do a bit of fault finding on my 9-5. The steering has become somewhat imprecise and "floaty". It seems to have got worse since I replaced the drop link bushes. There's also a slight clunk as you go down a dip. I had it up in the air at the weekend and check for anything obvious loose/worn. I nipped up the subframe bolts and checked for play in the steering rack. I then dropped it back on the ground and did a basic wheel alignment (a technique I have successfully used in the past- a laser level attached to the front wheel pointing towards a scale affixed to the rear wheel).

I set it at the outer limit of toe in to improve straight line stability (which it has) but now it steers to the right on acceleration and to the left on deceleration.

Any thought on where to look/what to change?

A friend at work asked me for help post replacing the EHPS steering rack on his car. He's fitted a used unit but there's no power steering assistance.  Initially there was an ESP error light but this has gone.

He's checked there is volts on the power connector, and I've looked at it via Tech 2 and there appears to be no communication with the control unit. I'm not overly familiar with using Tech 2 on the 9-3ss but it contacts the car OK (I can read other systems and values) but on trying to contact the PS unit it returns a message saying there's no systems available.

WIS suggests that it may need SPS programming via TIS2000 but surely it would at least need to be able to communicate.

Any ideas? Am I even going about trying to read any fault codes in the right way?

Over on Saabcentral, someone has posted a link to downloads for WIS and EPC that work with 64 bit machines:

I've downloaded them both and they work fine on Win7 64 bit after a restart.

There's instructions for changing WIS to English on page 1 of the thread. Thereafter, if you create a new user then select that instead of default when it starts up, it will always be in English.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / DICE battery drain
« on: 14 February 2016, 06:38:26 PM »
Tracking down why the battery seems to be going flat quicker than I would expect (total quiescent draw circa 90-100mA) I've found that the DICE unit is pulling about 80mA of this. If I unplug it, the current draw goes.

Has anybody expereinced something similar and have any suggestions as to what things that are connected to DICE that might be causing this? I've already tried disconnecting the SID and ACC panels plus the last thing I added, the trailer relay, to no effect.

Since dropping the subframe on the 9-5 last year, I've had an intermittent knock from underneath when braking or accelerating. A while back I nipped up the subframe bolts to see if that would help but it seemd to make things worse.

Anyway, it was MOT time yesterday and ther were a couple of minor fails, one of which was a missing nut on the rear of the NS lower wishbone. Popped one on when I got it home and bingo- no more noises from underneath.

I'm a happy bunny!

The only question left then was did I forget to refit it when I did the subframe? If so it went thorugh an MOT last year with it missing.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Odd water pump failure
« on: 11 August 2015, 06:59:51 PM »
On the way to work this morning a rather nasty grinding/graunching noise started up about 4 miles from the office. It was revs related, so I figured pulley wheel. Such was the level of noise with the window down I assumed total failure was imminent.

The AA were duly summoned and he confirmed he wasn't going to be able to fix it, so I was recovered home.

However it wasn't a pulley wheel. It was the water pump bearings which were sufficiently goosed as to allow the pump wheel to have ground about 4mm into the block, but despite this there was no hint of a leak!

I suppose I can't really complain as I think that's the original pump at 188,000 miles.

I finally got round to disposing of the shell of the 9000 we started breaking back in Nov. The challenge was to find a scrappy willing to take just the shell stripped bare of most of the valuable items.

Anyway, the man turned up as he said he would on Saturday with a hihab and two hooks on the end. A brief discussion ensued because his method of getting the car onto the truck was to put a hook at each B pillar and lift, and he wanted to go through the door frames to do this, but the electric windows were still in place. I reassure him it should  be strong enough without going through the door frames but he insisted so it took me a couple of minutes to release the regulator mech and drop the glass.

He then picked it up with said hooks on the B pillars and I have to say I was mightily impressed that there was no real deflection around the pillars. Up in the air she went. He did grudgingly admit that he'd expected it to distort.

Announcements & Events / RIP Erik Carlsson- Mr Saab
« on: 27 May 2015, 10:20:04 PM »
It is with great sadness that we have learnt that Erik Carlsson passed away today. Our thoughts are with his family and friends.

Those of you who have been fortunate enough to meet him will know what a wonderful character and fantastic ambassador for Saab he was. He will be greatly missed by the Saab community around the world.

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