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Topics - carrera

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1
The house alarm has started to play up, all the warning lights came on alongside a mains hum. It's ~33 years old, wired, mains with step down transformer.

Isolated, dismantled and found a damaged component, the board is black, on the reverse too

Any idea what sort of component this is, so I can try & find a replacement


2
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Fuel gauge behaviour, 2.2 TiD
« on: 07 August 2020, 12:01:31 PM »
Well I suppose the off the cuff answer is they all behave strangely.

The gauge / DTE has been unpredictable since dropping below 1/4. DTE has been dropping sharply, as has teh gauge, but MPG has not been affected to anything like the extent required - I have been measuring an correlating over the past 150 miles.

I filled the car up today, for only the second time. Drove away from the pump, and noticed that the gauge was just above the reserve area, the light had gone off though.

Over the next 8 miles it gradually moved up to a bit under 3/4. After leaving in parked for 15 minutes it is now up to the white area at full.... but not above it which is what I expected from the other 9-5s.

Range increased from 56 miles before the fill to 103 miles, 248 miles and up to 550 miles when parked.

SID says 44 mpg after the fillup reset, so DTE should be ~720 miles. MPG increased progressively from 27 to 46 before dropping back due to the nature of the driving on the final bit.

Before I start getting stinky diesel everywhere, is this indicative of a sticking fuel indicator, or normal practice ?

Loosed and realign the sender unit, or remove and check for loose baffles ?

Do it now, or wait for the fuel level to drop again.

3
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Linear upgrades ?
« on: 14 June 2020, 11:03:53 AM »
OK, so I have done a few miles in the 2.2Tid and I remain quite impressed. I will be going on a longer run this afternoon so lets see what she gets on a long journey.

Question is, is there anything I can reasonably do to upgrade the toys ?

I have already looked at the radio and moving it from AS1 to AS2. I expected that would be easy, but from reading around it seems that the loom is made for the car spec, so teh wiring doesn't exist. That includes the absence of speakers in the fron doors. So that's off the agenda.

It has fabric seats, warmer in winter and just had a look and they are not heated. Propery poverty spec :)  I have a set of Vector manual seats, anybody know if the wiring is there for the heated seats and switches, or that's another area where the loom is spec specific.

If the answer is no, that's fine, I'll just live with it

4
Apparently our host is forcing a change of the php version we have to use that provides the programming language for the forum.

I am running a test on the new version....... there may be problems........ but in the very short term we should be able to roll it back

Please let me know if you experience any issues, assuming you can still post.

5
For the second time this year I have gone to change a lower ball joint and found the securing pinch bolt to be broken.

Is this a weakness on the 9-5?

On the first one the car had had a minor accident on that corner, kinking the strut, so perhaps associated with impact. The second one has not had any impact of that type that I am aware of.

 

6
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / 2.3t rescue project
« on: 05 May 2020, 03:53:33 PM »
It's been a while, but a few weeks ago another 9-5 cried out for help and I was listening attentively.

It's a 2002 steel grey 2.3 estate, which was a bit noisy and whiney on start up, I was told it needed a sump drop. It came with some handy parts too, but I suppose the Crossland filter will not get used.

So, while I am in the mood for doing sump drops here's another, in all its glory

First of all the sump as removed, looks a bit black doesn't it



and then with the strainer off. There's a bit of debris on top of the strainer and it looks like someone has been building a sandcastle in the bottom of the sump. Nice !



and now the strainer itself



and finally, I was expecting this because there is an invoice for the work in the history file. Can anybody spot what is missing ?




7
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Removing sump on 9-5 - RTV !
« on: 03 May 2020, 03:23:41 PM »
Hmm, not happy.

I wanted to do a sump drop and service  on the grey car today, everything is off, but the sump will not separate from the engine. The black stuff on the outside of the mating surfaces had me a bit worried as I was removing the bolts.

It looks like RTV / some sort of adhesive has been used to provide the seal. Did a little of the usual prying and though there was a little sign of movement I only succeeded in breaking off one of the tabs. Hence the unhappiness.

Any suggestions for attacking this. At the moment I am resorting to a lump hammer and a block of wood to protect the sump. This is just so wrong.

8
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Tech 2 fuel gauge calibration
« on: 16 April 2020, 04:58:47 PM »
Right, I've run in out of fuel twice in the silver car, about 10 miles or so after the reserve light comes on, when the needle is only just starting its descent town to the end of reserve. The gauge is not working like I expect it to so I have been messing in Tech 2.

The activation of the needle by Tech 2 correctly places its position

I understand there is a global adjustment, and then individual calibration adjustment at certain points.

Anybody know how the "increase" / "decrease" translate into the reading of the gauge, or how to interpret "Fuel level (ECM)"  and  "Fuel level (Calibrated)"

So in other words I can see where to make the adjustments, but am unable to observe a visible change in the fuel gauge, so don't know if I making things better or worse.

I am trying to avoid draining the tank to go through the WIS procedure ....... but in a sense that's a bit of a false objection as I have obviously already done this twice  :-[

I have already read that there may be an issue with baffles coming loose, but these symptoms would not seem to fit with a physical blockage, as the point where the reserve light comes on would seem to be correct.

For reference I just looked at the green car and the settings there are 2 0 1 0 0, reading top to bottom.

Thoughts ?

9
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Sources for parking sensors
« on: 14 April 2020, 10:22:48 PM »
Messing about with my borrowed Tech 2 this afternoon I discovered that I have two parking sensors that are not working correctly. Objects are detected 15 to 30cm away when nothing is there.

Are there any decent aftermarket sources, I'm not fancying the prices for Saab sourced components ?

10
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Wear limit on bores
« on: 01 March 2020, 01:29:26 PM »
Checking to see if I have missed something in WIS.

What is the wear limit on a B2x5 engine

I have seen that a "B" block is stated to be 90.02-90.04mm

How is this to be interpreted ?

90.02 when new, with a wear limit of 90.04, or

90.02-90.04 when new and no defined wear limit.

I have also seen that the piston to bore clearence is stated to be 0.025-0.056.

Those numbers seem to come from Nominal bore - max piston size 90.000-89.975 = 0.025 minimum, or bore size 90.02 - smallest piston size 90.02-89.964 = 0.056 maximum

The logic of those calcs doesn't make a lot of sense to me

Anyone know better ?

11
Customer Service Desk / Updated forum software and privacy policy
« on: 18 February 2020, 11:32:32 PM »
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12
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Repairing SCC / trip computer
« on: 04 December 2019, 02:42:58 PM »
The digits on mine were not clear, not all present, fluctuated when pressng the display. After numerous attempts I managed to get it all working correctly again by repairing the LCD connections.

Sorry, no photos to add to the above, but instructions as follows:

Remove SCC from dash
Remove top and bottom metal pins by using a small screwdriver to lever out the dash side of the clip
Press the plastic tabs to remove the back cover
Remove the plastic spacers between the two boards
Bend the board out of the way to access the 4 screws that hold the white plastic screen cover in place
Remove, then remove the two screws that hold the board connection onto the screen cover.
Don't lose the "rubber" connector strip.

Reassembly

Use IPA to clean the connector on the LCD, the connector strip and the plastic strip that secures it.
Assemble the PCB connector, rubber strip and white plastic retainer onto the screen cover - make sure the visible section is grey, not white
Then but the LCD back into the surround, drop the screen cover into place and replace the 4 screws that hold that in place
The rest of the reassembly process is obvious.

I must have tried 10 times doing this without removing the LCD screen / cover. This worked the first time I did it the "dangerous" way

Hope this helps someone out. I think this is very similar to a SID repair on the 9-5

13
I found this site this morning which has some really useful downloads for the classic 900

https://www.zemekoni.org/saab900sm

14
Saab 9000 (1984-1998) / Saab workshop manuals for 9000
« on: 24 November 2019, 11:12:15 AM »
I found this site this morning which has some really useful downloads for the 9000

https://www.zemekoni.org/saab900sm

15
I have just found out another failure mode for the remote lock / unlocking which I thought was a battery failure at first. Pressing the tailgate unlock showed "2 keys 2 transponders" on SID, so that told me the key was transmitting and a message was being received.

I was pointed very strongly in the right direction to the solution by this post http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=26395 which has some excellent photos. Note that further disassembly is possible contrary to what is said in that thread. If you push the sliding pin out of the way the lock assembly can be rotated further and the lockset removed. It is therefore possible to adapt the physical tumblers to an existing key, which avoids having to recode a key to the car. A bit of patience and dexterity is required. The springs are very small and easily lost. 

After removing the ignition lock the remote locking worked, which confirmed that the problem was with the lock not popping up when the key was removed. In my case this was also visibly the case.

After a bit of lock disassembly, cleaning, tweaking of the disturbed tumblers I finally discovered what the issue was. The little retaining pin when rotated to the "remove" position is supposed to slide towards the centre of the shaft, propelled by the spring at the bottom of the lock behind the plastic cover.

In my case it seemed as if the hole had elongated, allowing it to wobble and jam. I added a little chemical metal to the ramp so that the pin would be already closer to the shaft, the wobble would be less and lo & behold, the spring was now able to pop the lock up.

I can now refit the lock cylinder back in the car and have the full benefit of central locking  :)

I was going to use a lock cylinder from the breaker, but there is a design change around 2004 year with a wider key which makes then incompatible.

Is there a qualification for Saab Master Locksmith  ;D


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