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Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Vibration at idle - 1.9 diesel
« Last post by Tim O on 23 July 2019, 08:32:17 PM »
Had my 2008 9-5 Vector Sport Wagon serviced today, along with its annual MoT. All okay, tyres a bit thin, but good for another year. However, they confirmed something that I have noticed the last few months - vibration when idling. It may well be my imagination, but I think it improves when engine is warm, really not sure.

The garage, a small independent but knowledgeable, suggested either flywheel failure or a faulty injector, but didn't  investigate further. My fear is flywheel failure, but could it be something else? Engine mount, engine fuelling? Out of my depth, tbh. Very, very slight vibe through the pedals, no horrible noises or clinks.

Car drives perfectly and has done 125000 miles, always serviced correctly. Driven briskly but never abused. Iíve owned it 8 years and driven 90000 miles, and whilst Iíve owned it years the only fault has been a warning sensor fail (ox sensor on cat/exhaust I think).

If it is flywheel, any idea of cost? Iím assuming new clutch whilst weíre in there, itís still on its original.

Anyone care to give an opinion or advice?

2008, 9-5 Vector Sport SportWagon, 1.9Tdi, manual. 125000 miles.
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Could you by-pass the CD changer?  It's not an essential part of the system.  That might allow you to add the other amps.  Then, if they add OK, try again with the CD changer back in the loop.

Tried to bypass the cd changer today, but it wasn't having it, the radio would not come on, therefore amp1 and amp2 cannot be added, so i changed it back to factory settings and the radio and cd changer worked fine.
I think it's time to buy my own tech 2...

Update on this, in my amp2 upgrade, the fibre that goes from no 2 on icm to 1 on EHU was not replaced with a new fibre, rather it was reused in the connection between icm and no 1 on amp2, could that be the problem why the light is not coming out of cd changer when amp1 and amp2 are connected? My thinking is fibre is fibre as long as its connected in the right order.

Let me know what you all think.
Hi just thinking about this again, do i have to programme amp1 before programming amp2 and so on to the other units, at the minute i have the 4 speaker set up, but amp1 and amp2 have been plugged in and connected. Tech 2 says  break in fibre optic loop, i have gone round twice or more and can't see any break. The break is at in dash cd changer, changed the fibre optic cables there but no luck.
Any comments on this would be appreciated.

Cheers.
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Many thanks for this, will take a good look around asap
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Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: New key won't pair with the car.
« Last post by sgould on 20 July 2019, 10:41:40 PM »
I will try and play with a better radio tomorrow and see if I can get some harmonics to register.

Failing that, my plan is to take the keys with me to the Saabfest in Bury next weekend and see if there are any experts.  There may be some fundamental thing I'm doing wrong!! :o
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I have been reading around. That rubber bush / metal bit is standard.

This page should be useful for you

http://www.saabwiki.info/index.php?title=NG_900/9-3_Throttle_Body

I suspect that the clear pipe should go to 5 in diagram 7.

Note particularly figure 3. There is an idle control circuit, so you need to make sure that those hoses are in good condition with no leaks.
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You'll know more than me! Thanks, we might be alright then. That screw with rubber, well, it's got a round head and looks like you couldn't turn it...
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Did I mention I don't know much about ng900's

Well anyway, that clear pipe is connected to the crankcase breather, and the other end of that pipe should I believe be connected onto the throttle body, so that excess crank pressure gets fed back into the engine. Look for a metal spigot with nothing connected

........... or is that someone's bodge with a screw and piece of rubber on the left hand side of the inlet pipe, blocking off the air leak because the pipe was not connected at some time ??
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Chaps, by way of an update, and again, thanks. Have done 400 successful miles in the old beast since I last posted and although I cannot spend too much time looking at the wobble for obvious reasons (!), it seems to dissapear when car is hot, and has been for a while. I've now taken a look at all the hoses.

The one I assume goes directly to the gauge - as it dissapears into the bulkhead on the drivers side - is original, judging by the amount of grime on its small white sticker and the zip tie looks ancient. It's in good condition. What I did find was that the clear hose that comes off the breather nipple is not attached to anything. So it looks like it should go between the two large pipes beneath the turbo (attachment) so I have attached it and fired it up and after some initial wobble when idling it calmed down and was still (or almost still, the kind of wobble one would never spot unless looking).

I am a true novice on cars, does this sound right?!

Just spotted Carrera's post - will give that a go ASAP.
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Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: New key won't pair with the car.
« Last post by carrera on 19 July 2019, 11:05:46 PM »
This really is field repairs.

If you think the transmitters are on a different frequency then i would repeat the test you did, first with the working remote, and test what the upper and lower frequencies are that work and get a range. Simplicity would then make me take the midpoint as the actual frequency used

Repeat the test with the second key. If the range / mid point is the same it's a 433, if it's offset by quite a bit and it's lower it's the US frequency.

Does that make sense ?

I think the frequency band is located just above the old VHF tv signal (405 line) and just below the current UHF (was 625 line before digital)

https://www.itu.int/en/ITU-R/terrestrial/broadcast/Pages/Bands.aspx
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Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: New key won't pair with the car.
« Last post by sgould on 19 July 2019, 10:25:06 PM »
The cassette player testdidn't work.  The player has a lid over the cassette, and when it's open everything is shut off. :(

However,  I found a really cheap plastic radio that came free with something.  I tried the 9-4 remote next to it and got a clear dull rattling sound coming through the earphones every time I pressed a button.

I had to change the tuning of the radio to a different weak station before the 9-5 existing remote would give an interference sound.  In this case it was a faint  whine each time I  pressed a button. But definitely caused by the remote.  Then I tried the new remote and got a similar sound, but  a biit louder, possibly due to the new battery.  So it seems to be transmitting.   But it still won't sync to the car.  All I can think of is that it's a 315 one.

Puzzling, unless I'm doing the marrying completely wrong.
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