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Well today, a new (2nd hand) air filter box arrived complete with the fixing that was snapped off the one fitted to my car.

Excitedly, I fiitted it tonight, and cleaned the MAF sensor whilst I was at it. Made sure the inlet air pipe was connected to the underside of the box (it wasn't in the old box).

Initial impressions were good. The start up knock has gone. We took the car for a drive, and going over speed ramps seemed better. But the more I went over, the knock from.the drivers side still seemed to be there :(
I'm with Aerojon - it's most likely something you have done, or not done, so you need to critically check your own work (again with a sceptics eye)  ;)

When you find it, it will be blindingly obvious, in hindsight.

Saab has a workshop information system which tells you how stuff works, where it is and how to set it up. The good news is someone has kindly put up an online version

I suggest you start reading WIS, and look to see what components are part of controlling the high pressure pump. Start Here

You can read there about the "Fuel quantity control valve" component 652b. I can guess that if that is not connected, then there is no signal so the ECU may restrict fuel volume to nil.

That's only a starter, at least by reading around you will have a better understanding of how the thing works

Cl;ick on the left arrows to get pictures, where available

I'll be doing some reading tonight as I have to take a head off a 2.2Tid, broken glow plug has not come out with the extractor tools  ::) :(

Timing is bang on checked it 4 times
It's got me
I've change cam and map sensor still no joy
also if the battery is low(12V one) the ism won't turn,sometimes a system reset(batt disconnect) will cure most gremlins..
if it was running ok before the belt etc change then it's something you've overlooked when refitting new belt etc..Go back and check over everything including the timing itself is bang on..
Well that's very strange.

The tank pump is supplying diesel to the high pressure pump.

The high pressure pump is I think driven by a belt, with no need toi time it up, it is simply an engine driven pump

Yet with the pipes to the injectors cracked open there is no delivery to the injectors.

Is that right ?

If so, are you sure you have not got the supply and return pipes reversed (probably not even possible but I put it out there as an idea)

If my instructions were not clear, when you crack the injectors off, release all 4 and wait for one to start squirting, then tighten just that one.
Checked all the wirering  changed some sensors
Tyres what you said on all the injectors still no joy
I would avoid.  You will always need two keys and they are not reprogrammable, so new needed.  That's 100, plus ignition module and probably the CIM.  If you go new you are looking at around 500 on top with no guarantee of a result. Second hand CIM is probably OK, but you need the one that matches the car.  Not 100% sure if the (cheaper) new ones fit the older cars, but you do need to match the ESP/no ESP and possibly petrol/diesel too.
You changed the pump and it has made no difference, so the high pressure pump was not actually at fault

As you have had the head off I suggest that you recheck your work. Are all electrical connections and earths remade, crank / cam position sensors in place with no damaged cables etc , we all miss things

How do you know it's not pumping diesel, did you do what I suggested in the main thread and crack each of the injectors off ?

I'm not sure
The pump in the tank is making a noise  and I took one pipe going to the pressure  pump it come out like a hose pipe
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