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Should be OK.  It's only the exhaust that gets really hot. There's a lot of plastic around the engine and that doesn't melt.  And the clear lacquer on a black car gets far too hot to touch on a sunny day, and that stays on! :)

But you may find some lacquers are better than others. 
And both the lacquer and/or the wax are OK to use on the engine, given the temperatures?
Wire wool also works well. To protect the engine marks from returning I used Turtlewax Sealant Wax which contains hydrophobic sealants.
It will not totally prevent it from returning, but will slow it down considerably.
The sealant is also good for alloy wheels.

Treat it, then seal it with a clear laqueer. It might bubble, it may not, only one way to find out
Mmmmm, so I suspect the corrosion is normal on an engine of this age? So even if I clean it up with a bit of wet'n'dry fine grade, can the metal be treated with something to protect it from further corrosion?
The notion of engine cleaning always scares me. Open bonnet; light squirt of WD40; close bonnet (or to be more precise, until I have fixed replacement bonnet struts, get hit by bonnet on back of head ...)
That's not dirt, it's corrosion.  So wet & dry will be needed.  But it will happen again.
I tried to clean the top of my engine today, and seem to have some areas that I cannot clean very well. Any recommendations about what to use on these metal areas to bring them up? I tried brake and carb cleaner, but it's not sorting it.

Do I need to get the fine wet and dry out?

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« Last post by carrera on 28 February 2021, 12:25:09 AM »
Well, today the engine is out

Checked the compressions before removal. Looking good, 16 bar on 1-3, 14 bar on number 4

Here's a picture before the stripping started. Front & rear suspension legs are off. The boot carpet was easily visible  :'(

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« Last post by carrera on 26 February 2021, 11:31:29 PM »
Well, time for an update on this.

I decided that doing an engine rebuild (properly) would be quite expensive so have been hanging around waiting for another option.

Eventually, one turned up, in the form of a 2006 DE saloon that had failed the MOT on rear suspension mounting points. Mechanically good though, even if partially stripped.

I picked it up and after fixing a fuel tank leak  :o I put a DI cartridge on, swapped the fuel rail as the FPR was missing along with the plastic insert and then programmed an unpaired ECU, carefully removing the immobilisor  ;)

She fired up, seemed to run OK, so this weekend I'm aiming to do an engine transplant   
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