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Should be OK.  It's only the exhaust that gets really hot. There's a lot of plastic around the engine and that doesn't melt.  And the clear lacquer on a black car gets far too hot to touch on a sunny day, and that stays on! :)

But you may find some lacquers are better than others. 
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And both the lacquer and/or the wax are OK to use on the engine, given the temperatures?
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Wire wool also works well. To protect the engine marks from returning I used Turtlewax Sealant Wax which contains hydrophobic sealants.
It will not totally prevent it from returning, but will slow it down considerably.
The sealant is also good for alloy wheels.

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Treat it, then seal it with a clear laqueer. It might bubble, it may not, only one way to find out
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Mmmmm, so I suspect the corrosion is normal on an engine of this age? So even if I clean it up with a bit of wet'n'dry fine grade, can the metal be treated with something to protect it from further corrosion?
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The notion of engine cleaning always scares me. Open bonnet; light squirt of WD40; close bonnet (or to be more precise, until I have fixed replacement bonnet struts, get hit by bonnet on back of head ...)
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That's not dirt, it's corrosion.  So wet & dry will be needed.  But it will happen again.
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I tried to clean the top of my engine today, and seem to have some areas that I cannot clean very well. Any recommendations about what to use on these metal areas to bring them up? I tried brake and carb cleaner, but it's not sorting it.

Do I need to get the fine wet and dry out?

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Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« Last post by carrera on 28 February 2021, 12:25:09 AM »
Well, today the engine is out

Checked the compressions before removal. Looking good, 16 bar on 1-3, 14 bar on number 4

Here's a picture before the stripping started. Front & rear suspension legs are off. The boot carpet was easily visible  :'(

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Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« Last post by carrera on 26 February 2021, 11:31:29 PM »
Well, time for an update on this.

I decided that doing an engine rebuild (properly) would be quite expensive so have been hanging around waiting for another option.

Eventually, one turned up, in the form of a 2006 DE saloon that had failed the MOT on rear suspension mounting points. Mechanically good though, even if partially stripped.

I picked it up and after fixing a fuel tank leak  :o I put a DI cartridge on, swapped the fuel rail as the FPR was missing along with the plastic insert and then programmed an unpaired ECU, carefully removing the immobilisor  ;)

She fired up, seemed to run OK, so this weekend I'm aiming to do an engine transplant   
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