Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« Last post by carrera on 28 February 2021, 12:25:09 AM »
Well, today the engine is out

Checked the compressions before removal. Looking good, 16 bar on 1-3, 14 bar on number 4

Here's a picture before the stripping started. Front & rear suspension legs are off. The boot carpet was easily visible  :'(

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Noisy tappets - how bad can it be ?
« Last post by carrera on 26 February 2021, 11:31:29 PM »
Well, time for an update on this.

I decided that doing an engine rebuild (properly) would be quite expensive so have been hanging around waiting for another option.

Eventually, one turned up, in the form of a 2006 DE saloon that had failed the MOT on rear suspension mounting points. Mechanically good though, even if partially stripped.

I picked it up and after fixing a fuel tank leak  :o I put a DI cartridge on, swapped the fuel rail as the FPR was missing along with the plastic insert and then programmed an unpaired ECU, carefully removing the immobilisor  ;)

She fired up, seemed to run OK, so this weekend I'm aiming to do an engine transplant   
Well I tried to connect the Sky box to my laptop, but regardless of which output I use from the Sky+ HD box, the laptop does not recognise it as an external drive. I thought there was a way you could plug something into the old sky box which would mean it would work without having to connect satellite cables. I thought it would at least work with the wireless connector box so that we could watch stuff recorded on the box (if not record anything new on it), but it seems not?
Well some time ago, I bought some AirVidox odour neutraliser - it consists of two powders you mix together, then add 60ml of water, shake the container for 30 seconds until it turns into a gel giving off what smells like chlorine!!!

You leave it in the car for 4 hours, and then run the aircon on recirc for another half hour.

We moved house in November and I now have a garage where I can actually get a car into, so I decided today was the day to finally try this stuff, as the Saab is in there, and at the end you have to leave windows/doors open to let the chlorine dissipate, which I did with garage doors at either end slightly open to get some airflow through. It was threatening rain outside, so the garage was ideal!!!

I might try and get the car out for a drive tomorrow and see what it is now this space.

Fingers crossed it has done a better job than all those a/c foam cleans I have done up to now ;)

Thanks, I'll get the big bugger ordered then

I'll be careful with the board, but I've had to make track repairs in the past, so it's wouldn't be the first time. Working at this scale isn't too bad
The first one is a fair bit bigger but if you bend the leads to space it off the board it will be fine. The other problem you may well have is that the PCB pads the burnt one is soldered to will be fragile and probably lift away. You can wrap copper wire around the resistor leads and connect it to the track/components away from the burn site.
That's great guys - I hadn't noticed the bands on the good board.

Now, given that this is a "known" problem any preference on which of these to go for


The battery has already been posted
I agree, 47 ohm 2W  (as denoted by the 47 on the board, and the yeloow, purple black gold  (4, 7, *1, 5% tolerance) as on the DIYnot link .
From the picture of the working board, it would appear that the resistor is meant to be 47 ohms.

Replace the battery and see how you go.
No, none of the usual electrical burning smell at all

This was installed in '88 I think
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10