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Messages - sgould

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That's a relief.  It seems that they are working OK.  The "manual fold" is quite stiff!! :)

The glass moving inside the mirror casing is fine.  It's whether the whole mirror body can be pushed back against the car.  That's towards the door. It should move, but not easily.  It's an attempt to save the mirror body if you hit something in passing.

The 2004 breather system is fine.  The sludge was caused by the rubber pipe breaking down.  Most of the pipework in the 2004 car is hard plastic.  At least the bit that sees the highest temp.

The 2004 car will have a completely different crankcase breather system.  Move that with the engine.  It's the one that "eliminated" the sludge. 

I would keep the later throttle body, although I think that the connections are all there in different places.

Water cooling/heating in/out.
Crankcase breather
Vacuum solenoid
EVAP pipe

Five in all?

I think that the throttle body gasket is different.  The same basic ring but there's an extra loop on one.  Saab only supply the gasket with the ring and you cut the loop off if necessary.

They may be non-folding, but they should be able to be folded by hand. If they really are solid, someone has glued/screwed them up

I think you may have to look inside. The glass can be unclipped by releasing the wires behind the inside edga. I have photos but I’m not at home to access them.

It’s not unknown for broken mirrors to be “fixed” by gluing them solid! :(

I fitted a Kenwood unit to my AS3 system.  It was a while ago and the connection harnesses were not available for the Saab satnav unit.  So I just cut the wires and crimped everything in.

Have a look at and www. for the various bits.

The mitteget site seems to have been taken down.  it was a useful resource...

The main issue with the install is that most harnesses use the spraker outlets from the new head unit.  You really need to find a head unit with RCA/phono connectors which are one third the power.  It's line level which the Saab amp expects.  but the Saab unit expects a balanced feed with no earth between the head unit and amp.  A pair of ground loop isolators will sort that.

Another check.  If the compressor is working OK, then the  two metal pipes under the bonnet running along the RH front wing will be at different temperatures.  If they are, then look at the blower fan more carefully.  You may have two, or a linked fault.  I'm not 100% sure of the system, but it's possible that if the blower fan fails, the sensors in the aircon unit may sense something and not enable the compressor.  But a pretty simple check.  If the two metal aircon pipes are the same tmperature, the compressor is not being engaged.

There is a gas pressure sensor and other things  that control the switching of the aircon, like outside temperature, etc.  But the logic of those is read and sorted in the dashboard ACC control panel. It all ends up with an on/off power supply to the compressor clutch.

If the clutch is worn, it can also slip and fail to engage, but it can be shimmed up.  From memory there's a 60 thou clearance.  So it's possible that the clutch could not engage even with a power supply.  But that's less likely to be intermittent, I would guess.

The compressor clutch actuation wire runs down behind the RH headlamp alongside the radiator.  It has a blue heatproof sheath.

Here's a picture.

The compressor has a clutch on the pulley.  It's engaged electrically.  Is that connection secure and the clutch working?  If the clutch doesn't engage, then the compressor will not work.

I had a look in WIS for the later cars.  It's still not clear though because the diagram is wrong and appears unchanged form the earlier cars.  If you look at the section headed "Tank integrity diagnosis".  It's the bottom choice in the EVAP Emissions section of the Engine Section.  There's a diagram of the vent system and there's a small item between the canister and the purge valve that's unnumbered.  But it looks to be in the right place.

This bit?  Not sure...

I had a look at the WIS and the EPC.  What a confusing set of info!!

But it does look as if that's the "service port", so plain jointing the pipes should be OK.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Front Tyres Center Wear
« on: 12 May 2019, 12:05:26 AM »
I think the wear is a form of skipping, but more   due to the combination of camber and toe in/out caused by a worn big trailing arm bush. 

Once you get that hole patched, I was recommended to put builders "Flashband" on the plastic wheel arch liner.  That's the self adhesive bitumen strips/rolls from builders merchants for sealing roofs and gutters.  I was going to do this - but OI forgot :o  Put it on the outside, not the inside next to the tyre and exposed to the elements.  Apparently it reduces the road noise a lot especially in wet weather.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Front Tyres Center Wear
« on: 11 May 2019, 10:21:54 PM »
I had a tyre that looked like this.  That sort of stepping is "almost normal".

First two are a Goodyear F1 tyre.

Third one is a Bridgestone RE050A

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