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Messages - sgould

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I haven't had to do a washer cover, but pulling it about a bit should be OK. It's all rubber pipes, springs and things behind there. 

If it all goes wrong, taking the bumper off is nothing like as bad as it seems!  Three small screws in each wheel arch.  Four across the top and four or five underneath.  All small stuff.  Pull out the sides and it falls off.   I allowed a morning for the work the first time.  But it only took 10 mins to remove and about the same to put it back.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Fuel level issues.
« on: 09 May 2019, 10:36:49 PM »
Yes, I know.  It is unreliable. I do a lot of short journeys these days, it can take a week to get fromm 100 down to 50.  So I often forget (old age?).  But I always console myself that it's downhill all the way from here to the Tesco filling station. :D

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Fuel level issues.
« on: 08 May 2019, 11:35:38 PM »
Yes, I know.  I ALWAYS keep my tank at least half full!! ::)  ::)

On the older cars which had a DTE that went down to 0, I drove two miles with it on 0 and then a few weeks later we ran out of fuel in Luxembourg with DTE on 15...

I might have a look because it might explain a rattle.  I wonder if the baffles in the tank have come loose.  They used to on some older cars and it was supposed to have been fixed, but I keep remembering that the DE models were "value engineered" by GM.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Fuel level issues.
« on: 08 May 2019, 11:25:05 PM »
When I got back in the car to come home the DTE had dropped to 24.  I drove off and went uphill and the DTE dropped a bit.  Back on the motorway and it rose to 29.  Then I looked and it was 68!!  It dropped down and I tiptoed back to Tesco.  I stopped at the pumps in the queue with DTE at 39.  Turned the ignition off.  Started the car a minute or two later to move to the pumps and was on "Refill fuel now" which only comes on at 20 miles to empty.  Filled up and it took 71 litres.

Looks like it's time to take the pump out and look.  Not sure when I'll have the time though.  Next job is to get the Carlsson serviced and through the MOT ready for Sweden at the end of the month.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Fuel level issues.
« on: 08 May 2019, 07:52:52 PM »
Tonight I set off for a meeting 20 miles up the motorway with DTE showing 29 to empty. I planned to fill up before returning home. Iíve only been driving around town lately and the fuel consumption was showing 19.3 mpg.

As I drove along slowly in fairly heavy traffic the DTE went up to 32 mpg as it would normally do. The fuel gauge was in the middle of the red section. We proceeded in this way for a few miles. However, the next time I looked at the DTE it was showing 61 miles to empty and the fuel gauge had jump to around a quarter full st the top of the red section. The fuel consumption was showing the same reading as before, but that may not be significant as it will have been a while since it was reset.

I donít plan to believe this. So Iím wondering what caused it. I remember something like this happening on my old Aero saloon on  a long trip when I was starting to look for a fuel stop. DTE jumped from about 40 to around 120 then.

Any thoughts?

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Front Tyres Center Wear
« on: 08 May 2019, 07:41:18 PM »
 No. For some reason Saab specified XL for the 225/45 17 and standard rating for the 235/45 17 tyres.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Front Tyres Center Wear
« on: 08 May 2019, 07:21:25 PM »
My Aero is running 225/40 tyres on an 8inch wide rim. But the wheel offset is 41mm which means that they sit 8 mm further out than the standard wheels.

One other small point is that the 225/45 17tyre is 94w rated for load and speed and is an extra load tyre. The235/451, also 94w is a a standard tyre, not an XL. XL on that size is 97w.

First question is, "Do you have folding mirrors?".  If you do, they should fold on the button on the door and also when you leave the car and press and hold the lock button on the key fob.  Door mirrors are vulnerable and it's been known in the past to save money by replacing broken ones with the non-folding variety.

The other thing that causes door lock, mirror and window probems is corrosion in the connectors.  It's worth undoing the big connector in the door hinge and ccleaning the contacts.  The female side of the connector is known for losing clamping force on the pins in the male side.  If the power is not fully available, or the computer bus signal is not getting through, then things go wrong.

I changed the springs and struts all round without touching the ABS sensors or the hubs. I supported the hub with an axle stand while I swapped the strut at the front. At the back they stayed more or less where they were without support.

If you are going to reuse things, the drop links are disposable.  Most people use the Meyle heavy duty ones these days.

The telephone volume and the radio volume are completely separate. Is the phone volume turned right down?  Use the normal radio volume control when ďTelephoneĒ shows.

When you try to make a call, do you see the word "Telephone" on the dash display?

I was in this situation a couple of years ago.  We weren't going camping but we had four adults in the car.  I looked at various options.  Roofbox.  Trailer. Towbar box. Etc.  But I already had a towbar.

In the end we managed to keep everything inside the car, but we travelled with the rear parcel shelf removed.  I fitted the Saab steel "dog guard" so that the back could be safely filled to the roof, if necessary.

My shed is also full, but a towbar box would have been stored in the house afterwards and used for basic storage and maybe a seat.  Some of these will tilt down to allow the tailgate to open.

Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Belt and pulley replacement
« on: 25 April 2019, 05:21:02 PM »
It was only the belt that was due to be replaced.  The pulleys failed and you can feel them wobble a bit if they are failing.  But I thought that the pulleys were modified for later cars.   If they don't have any "wobble" in them, I would just do the belt.

The steering wheel switches changed resistances at least twice, so they are not fully interchangeable across the years.

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