Author Topic: Dump valve constipation  (Read 3846 times)

idlerider

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Dump valve constipation
« on: 17 September 2012, 10:19:42 PM »
Passing a small group of cyclists, I checked the road ahead, changed down and accelerated. At that point, an oncoming van appeared ‘from nowhere.’ Foot went from full throttle to full brake and the situation passed without incident or alarm; then the dreaded EML appeared. Later that day, I checked under the bonnet, replaced the vacuum pipe on the boost solenoid valve (assume the reverse torque had pulled it off) and pulled fuse 17.

Restart and all OK - no EML. Performance, however has since been lacking: still brisk but almost as though there’s no turbo. I think I may have split the diaphragm in the boost dump valve - which was making a whining rattle under power before the incident.

My knowledge is limited and my questions for our experts are these: can I replace the diaphragm only, rather than the complete unit? - and if it must be the whole unit, should I buy a recirculating dump valve without a diaphragm, like those widely advertised as a tuning component? I’m concerned that these may place an unwelcome load on an elderly turbo.

ScarbSaab

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Re: Dump valve constipation
« Reply #1 on: 18 September 2012, 05:34:01 AM »
It might be worth checking for other vacuum leaks before you buy a replacement.

It is a recirculating dump valve, the Bosch plastic unit is £38.09 from PFS. As far as I am aware, they are not made to be repaired. I presume the tuning component you are referring to is something like the Forge metal dump valve, £81.66 from Neos.

phoenix

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Re: Dump valve constipation
« Reply #2 on: 18 September 2012, 09:11:25 AM »
I would doubt very much that the dump valve failed catastrophically as a result of what happened. The sharp jolt may have dislodged other vacuum lines as has been suggested; I'd check those out first. The key to what happens lies in the code that generated the EML, which sadly can't be retrieved now. The best thing to do is drive it and wait for it to recur, then get it read.

A possible cause of lost performance is a failed valve in the EVAP system. Try disconnecting the top hose on the APC valve and plug it with an M8 bolt.

"Performance" piston dump valves only really have any beneficial effect in higher state of tunes. The diaphragm types can leak a little with age, and sometimes people report and apparent improvement in throttle response because the newer valve doesn't leak.

When I've heard failed diaphragm valves in the past, they generally hoot coming off the throttle, not under load.