No spark and windows don't go up and down

[dunx]

I have a bizarre issue with my Sabb 900 NG (2.3i convertible).

Last week I was driving it to a friend's house, when it stuttered, the abs light came on, then it picked up and carried on with no problems or warning lights on. I set off to drive back, when it stuttered, and then cut out. I pulled it over to the side of the road, gave it a minute, cranked it over, and it started unhappily, missing reguarly. The 'check gearbox' light was on, as well. I got home, got changed, went out to it, and it started fine, no warning lights, and let me drive it 150 miles to Sheffield , about another 50 miles while there, then the 150 miles back. I took it a short run on Saturday, with no problems, then a couple short runs Sunday with no problems, then, on the third run, after maybe 1.5 miles it cut out again, and wouldn't start up.

The battery measures 12.48v, and it will crank over happily, but it just won't fire. I checked the plugs and am getting no spark at all.

Oddly enough, neither the rear nor front windows will go up and down, either, and the boot won't open with the elctric switch, even though the fuses are fine.

Any thoughts?

[Max Headroom]

Hello Dunx, and a huge welcome to the forums. 

I'm sorry to hear of these troubles and to be honest I can't offer much, but I'm sure someone will be along soon that can.
However have you tried checking to see if all your earthing/bonding straps are all in good condition and not broken or attached onto corroded metal? Check particularly the one that bonds the engine block to the chassis. The reason I suggest this is that a friend of mine had similar symptoms on an Alfa Romeo some years back.

Gool luck, and keep us informed of your findings

[phoenix]

Welcome

I'm not overly familiar with the working of the (I think) Motronic systems on the injection models, but I'll try to have a read tonight when I get in if no-one beats me to it. Taken in isolation, a sudden cutting out might suggest a problem with the crank sensor, but that wouldn't account for the ABS light.

Trenchfoot's advice about checking earths is a good place to start. I'm wondering if it may be a faulty ignition switch, that works in the start position, but not in on/run. Do the headlights come on with the ignition on?

[dunx]

Thanks for the quick responses.

All the electrics seem to work perfectly, apart from those listed above. Hence why I am so puzzled. A mechanic friend has suggested swapping the distributor, which I will try tonight. Their thought is that oil is leaking past the seal and stopping the coil working. Why that would make warning lights come on and certain electrical items not work though is beyond me.

I'll check the headlights and the earth strap tonight, and let you know what I find.

[Audax]

I'm not familiar with the security system/alarm on the 900 but that could have something to do with locking/windows and might account for no spark too. If I remember and get time I'll have a read up later on and see if there is any commonality between the systems.

[phoenix]

Had a look but can't find anything obvious. Might be worth getting it to an indy who can pull fault codes.

[dunx]

I didn't get time to look at this last night. Apparently (according to my girlfriend) working on my car isn't a romantic way to spend valentines day. I will check headlamps and the ignition key, eart straps and distributors this evening.

[dunx]

Well, I swapped the distributor, rotor arm and cap, and recehcked all the fuses. Still nothing.

The lights come on with the ignition. Earth straps all seem fine.

Any other thoughts? I can call the AA and get it towed to the Saab dealers down the road, but I'd rather avoid the expense.

Thanks again for the suggestions.

[dunx]

After fully charging the battery I had another look. Still no spark at all. But I also noticed something else strange.

With the battery fully charged, the lights on the dash don’t look as bright as they should be, and they pulse slightly. Also, while everything else on the dash is lit up, the info panel is blank.

[dunx]

The AA chap came out on Saturday, and the car started at the first twitch of the key! At least the check gearbox light came on again to show there was an issue. He plugged his machine in and got 'error p0560' (I think) which translated to voltage input irregularity.

I left it running and drove it straight round to a Saab specialist not far from here. I'll let you know what they come up with.

[Max Headroom]

Aint that just sods law that it started! 

Well at least your investigations are making some headway. Won't be too long before you get it cracked by the sound of it 

[dunx]

The saga continues:
The garage called Friday, saying the car was ready. All they had found was that the battery had a dodgy cell, so they had replaced the battery. Everytime they tried it it started, so they didn't look for anything else.

I took it out Friday evening, and again yesterday (top down weather all the way, wonderful!) and it is running fine.

I guess, as they say, watch this space!

A couple questions that this has flagged up:

1) If the car develops a fault, and the "computer" registers the fault, can the computer stop the car working till the error code is cleared from the computer, even if the fault is fixed?

2) The garage said that getting parts for the car is difficult these days, and that I would be better off getting rid of it before I need any spare parts. Does that fit anyone's real life findings?

[Max Headroom]

2) The garage said that getting parts for the car is difficult these days, and that I would be better off getting rid of it before I need any spare parts. Does that fit anyone's real life findings?

No not mine - I have enquired about this in advance at my local garage and so far (touch wood) few difficulties

[Audax]

1) If the car develops a fault, and the "computer" registers the fault, can the computer stop the car working till the error code is cleared from the computer, even if the fault is fixed?

2) The garage said that getting parts for the car is difficult these days, and that I would be better off getting rid of it before I need any spare parts. Does that fit anyone's real life findings?

1) Not really, on some of the later cars there can be a couple of things but not on your car.

2) It's an old car, parts availability for it will never get better! Any car over 10 years old can be difficult to get parts for (and sometimes younger cars too!). I wouldn't worry as you can always source second hand parts, by the time you swap it for something with better parts availability it'll probably cost you about as much as the car is worth. I'd drive it until it's terminally broken and uneconomic to repair and then sell it for scrap/parts.

[dunx]

Well, the car has run fine until last weekend when she got very wet, and covered in mud. On the way home from the event she cut out again with exactly the same symptoms as last time. She fired back up and drove fine till yesterday when she wouldn't start. The AA man came out, and spent an hour with me tracing wiring etc. Eventually we found the live to the distributor only had 7.4 volts, but when we bridged the battery straight to the coil it had battery voltage, and ran fine, with none of the strange dashboard lights issues. He suggested it was likely to be something between the key and the coil, and that a good place to start would be the ignition switch (as was suggested by one of you guys last time).

So, my question is, how do I get to the bottom of the ignition barrel? I have taken off the centre console up to the barrel, but it looks like the front half will have to come off as well. Anyone know how to do it?