Hi All,
Her wagon is finding it rather difficult to start from cold, first thing in the morning.
First attempt sees it cough once, and then fail. From there it refuses to do catch for another 10 attempts. Then it coughs a few times each attempt and then eventually it starts. Once to that point it goes 'normal' and is smooth and you can drive off as if nothing happened.
Warm restarts are not an issue, so long as it has been driving about for a bit. Cold restarts 30 minutes after the first cold attempt saw it fail just as badly,needing over 10 attempts again.
The fuel filter was replaced on the weekend. It drove really well after that and it had been 3 years since the last filter. Although it coughed ever so slightly on startup for a few days and deteriorated by the end of the week. Lots of metallic material came out of the filter when it was drained too. I picked up the last load of fuel from a recently refurbished petrol station up the road and this may be the cause.
The starter motor is fresh (40K old) and cranks really well and the battery is in very good condition. I did the fuel pump a few years ago, with a new OEM unit installed into the pickup. The pump can be heard buzzing away on startup.
Any ideas?
Which engine does the wagon have?
2.3t
Does it make a difference if you allow the fuel pump to 'prime' the system (and turn off when full pressure is reached) before turning the key fully to start it cranking over? When I'm very low on fuel it makes a big difference to starting. It'll start straight away rather than take a second or so.
Having said that, it sounds like it could be a CPS problem. Not the typical 'failure mode' as they are usually OK when cold and get worse when hot, but when my DI cassette failed it didn't fail in the usual way either (which I'm thankful for as it started playing up around midnight with two sleeping kids in the back and 100 miles further to go on the way to the in-laws for Christmas). Perhaps it's a poor connection where the CPS lead connects near the back of the engine. Might be worth undoing it and giving it a squirt of WD40. If possible, check the resistance between two of the pins. IIRC is should be about 860-900 ohms when cold.
Also feel that it could be CPS, I've seen a couple do the cold start failure thing. Also, check for vacuum or injector seal leaks by spray some carb cleaner around them. Also make sure the throttle body is clean and all vacuum hoses are good.
Checked out the CPS resistance. 1056 Ohms. But that is when slightly warm. Will check when properly cold.
I've had the same thing for the past 18 months...mentioned elsewhere on here when my issues first started.
So far, I've replaced the CPS & DI cassette (and breather pipes when I did the sump drop the other week - just as well because there was a hole in one of the pipes).
The car would almost fire up the first time - but if it didn't - then you were there for another 5 - 10 attempts. Once it got going & warmed up - no problems at all restarting - it was only ever from cold.
Bizarrely - if I left the car overnight - then it wouldn't fire up in the morning - however after coming home from a week's holiday - started instantly! Seemed to start better, the longer I left it sitting there.
I then replaced the battery (the existing one being 4 or 5 years old) and this seems to have cured it - never had to turn the key more than once since.
My final job is the vacuum lines - just in case.
How old is your battery?
It could be a leaky injector or injectors. I have seen this before. The fuel pressure is retained in the system and if you have a leaky or a couple of leaky injectors they dribble into the inlet manifold so when you come to start its like starting a flooded or partially flooded engine.
If the car is started in the day the engine is still warm so no extra fuel is added so they usually start easier. If left for a few days the extra fuel has evaporated off so it starts easily.
There are a couple of ways of testing this, bleed of the fuel pressure when you finish your journey and see how it starts in the morning or pull all the injectors but leave them connected to the fuel rail. Switch the ignition on so the rail is pressurized and put some paper towel under each injector tip. You will soon see if you have a dribbly injector.
An Astra I got involved problem solving this on would dribble a desert spoonful on 2 cylinders and tea spoonful on the other two. I had the injectors cleaned and balanced and the car was transformed. I suspect poor quality fuel filters at some time in the cars life.
Steve
Good suggestions Gents and all valid.
Battery is excellent and 'fully operational'...Bruce. It cranks and cranks and headlights don't dim in the process.
What I also now suspect is that when I replaced the fuel pump two years ago the connection line from the pump to the pickup assembly that was installed may have a split in it. Except I can't see it working, for obvious reasons because it is immersed in the fuel tank. You have to cut off the factory line and replace it with a standard type of line, but not specified to be drowned in the fuel itself. I was warned of this happening at the time and the challenge is then to buy the correct OEM plastic style fuel line. Not easy to get, I am finding.
So, tonight I will put in new joiner piece and see what transpires. Other than that the car is fabulous and still puts a smile on my face.
New joiner pipework has been installed. Fuel pressure now seems higher and it fires on the first attempt. The old pipe looked brittle and quite aged. Hopefully this does the trick! Will find out first thing tomorrow.