2007 57 plate Saab 93 150bhp engine
EGR Error Code following EGR valve clean
I cleaned the valve and still had the intermittent light
The light only comes on when I start and Never when running - and its only intermittent - I have a code reader and its the recyc error P0400 code
So i took out the valve again
Cleaned it all with a toothbrush
Cleaned all the engine side
took the solenoid off and checked the valve worked and cleaned all that spring and valve area, and solenoid face plate
The solenoid Pin was in - as i would expect it to be , a spring holding it closed - so when the valve is needed the solenoid pushes the pin out
Is that correct ?
Why did i only get a light on as the car started - never while running - I assume the EGR valve operates during engine run - or is it only on a startup - the light came on even after driving 200 miles stopping for 10minutes and then started and light was on.
resetting the code - it then may be 10-20 starts before it comes on again
if it comes back on again - apart from a faulty intermittent solenoid what else could be the problem
WIS indicates that there are six subdivisions of P0400. You will need a Saab Specialist with a Tech2 to pin down which one it is. All cause a check engine light.
So...
P0400 01
P0400 02
P0400 04
P0400 54
WIS suggests that there is a fault in the female connector of the engine control unit. Either corrosion, depressed pins or lack of clamping in the pin connections.
P0400 5A
WIS suggests an air leak between the turbocharger and the intake manifold. This turns off the EGR valve. Possibly a split pipe or intercooler.
P0400 5B
WIS suggests an air leak between the Mass Airflow Meter and the turbocharger. This will cause the car to drop into limp-home mode. Possibly a split hose in the inlet or crankcase ventilation.
OK thanks ,
The reader I have , not sure if it gives the rest of that code - next time it happens I will have a look
QuoteWIS suggests that there is a fault in the female connector of the engine control unit. Either corrosion, depressed pins or lack of clamping in the pin connections.
where abouts is that , and can I check it ~?
QuoteWIS suggests an air leak between the turbocharger and the intake manifold. This turns off the EGR valve. Possibly a split pipe or intercooler
I'll have a look around the pipes and see what I might be able to see - can I put a soapy liquid on the pipe and see this issue , and where are the pipes exactly
QuoteWIS suggests an air leak between the Mass Airflow Meter and the turbocharger. This will cause the car to drop into limp-home mode. Possibly a split hose in the inlet or crankcase ventilation.
can runs perfectly , I did 4 runs over 100miles in a day
so 100miles stop for 15mins and the 100miles
then stopped for a few hours and 100miles stopped for 5mins and then it came on - reset and and another 100mile trip
and the engine seems to run fine and no issue in performance at all
infact it appears to have run better after i first cleaned out all the gunge and it did have loads in the valve
thanks very much for the help
The Engine Management Unit is fitted in the front wheel arch on the right hand side. You have to remove the plastic wheel arch liner to get to it. That's from WIS - I've not done any work on a diesel.
If you think you have an air leak between the turbo and the inlet, the engine should be over-fuelling and giving black smoke from the exhaust. And you may hear some hissing around the front of the engine. But the pipes are the big black ones that disappear down under and around the engine.
thanks
Quotethe engine should be over-fuelling and giving black smoke from the exhaust.
no smoke, exhaust is fine
what is
over-fuelling ?
Injecting more fuel than there is air to burn it. If you have a split pipe or intercooler, then you lose air from the system after it's been measured by the Air Mass Meter, so the Engine Control Module sets the injectors to put the right amount of fuel into the engine to match the air. So if you lose air after it's been measured, then there's too much fuel for the optimum mix, so you lose a bit of power and use more fuel than you need.
thanks
no black smoke and appears to run OK
can I tell if this is a problem from a code reader I have - it does give a lot of live information if connected and running - but no idea what most of that means
its a
2012 Diagnostic D900 Universal OBD2 EOBD CAN Fault Code Reader Scanner Tool
QuoteWIS suggests an air leak between the turbocharger and the intake manifold. This turns off the EGR valve. Possibly a split pipe or intercooler
would this only turn on the Light at startup and still let the engine run OK - had a split pipe on a vauxhall diesel and that would not start properly and run very badly
as i say the light only comes on occasionally and only on startup - no other time so far
I think it will depend on how big the leak is. But it will turn on the engine light. All the P400 codes turn the light on.
But, if you definitely have not black smoke and you are not in limp-home mode, it seems to be pointing to a problem with the connector. But you will only know for sure if you get the Saab specialist to read the codes with the Tech2 computer.
Thanks
Hi,
I have still not had the techII read the type of P0400 fault I have
But i wondered if we could narrow the 6 down
as
1) it only comes on when starting - neverwhen running
2) Its intermittent - so maybe 1 out of 10 starts it comes on
3) The engine is running perfectly when the light is on and i can rev upto and drive smoothly at 4500 revs and also at 70MPH
4) No smoke out the back
5) Engine is NOT lumpy and pulls well
6) No strange noise from the engine
I removed the EGR valve again and made sure I cleaned all the valve seating with carb cleaner and removed the solenoid and cleaned all that area - used WD40 to make sure the valve operated easily and smoothly
also cleaned the solenoid pin and made sure that clicked in and out cleanly
I will have to see if I can get to the ECU and check all the connections on the unit - any links to a step by step guide on how to access that part of the engine
any other suggestions as to what would cause the light and not effect performance
I have been told there are quite a few sensors and to remove the manifold and clean that out - not sure how easy a job that would be
as its due for an MOT in September this light if it comes on - would fail the MOT now :(
I'm unemployed currently and so money is extremely tight , so what ever I can do myself would be great - thanks
I believe that on start up the car will open and shut the EGR valve and get a feedback signal from this, I'm guessing it's sticking at the extreme end of open/shut with this test but isn't a position that it opens too when in use? Try cleaning and lubricating again.
But, if the P0400 codes are the ones still there. it still points to a connector/wiring problem under the front wing. Have you cleaned in there with contact cleaner?
The EGR may not be the main problem. If it is one at all. But as Audax says. if the EGR is sticking at the ends of its travel, you may be getting other codes too.
thanks for the continued support
Quoteif the EGR is sticking at the ends of its travel, you may be getting other codes too.
no , no other codes showing up on the code reader , just that one , and then I clear it out
@Audax
QuoteI'm guessing it's sticking at the extreme end of open/shut with this test but isn't a position that it opens too when in use? Try cleaning and lubricating again.
do you know how the pin on the solenoid should work , i expected a spring to keep the pin closed when not activated - so the pin fully in and then when activated the pin to be pushed out by the solenoid, so there was little movement in the pin , i did clean and got a slight movement.
The main spring valve I WD40 and cleaned up and that was really nice and loose , so i must admit , i thought I had sorted it the last time i took apart and was really disappointed when no change
@sgould
QuoteBut, if the P0400 codes are the ones still there. it still points to a connector/wiring problem under the front wing. Have you cleaned in there with contact cleaner?
Yes, its just theone code P0400 on my code reader
and no sorry , i had a look around the area in the footwell but had no idea how to get access to that area
Do i take the front wheel off - and then remove the inside cover somehow ?
or is it inside the driver footwell ? - i looked inside the footwell and had no idea how to get all the trim off :( :(
its so easy to do this when you know how, or have a simple guide - is there any links to how to get that apart , and I will get the switch cleaner - I'm an ex electronic engineer so used to that type of thing , and not to bad mechanically - its just all the hidden clips on cars these days
The EGR valve removal waqs easy once i say the guide
Is removing the manifold and cleaning that area easy or prone to issues ?
thanks for the all help
It's inside the wheel arch - driver's side. Jack up car and remove wheel. Undo the two or three screws and peel back the plastic liner. The ECU is just there. See picture above.
If you put the wheel on full left lock, you might just get enough space to undo the liner bolts and reach in. But, wheel off is the recommended way.
i have the switch cleaner now,
The EMU (ECU) best way to clean the connections
Is there a cover to remove and then take the connections OFF and clean and reseat them all - whats the consequences of doing that - will it reset anything if i remove a connection -
do i need to undo the battery and if so - what again are the consequences of that - windows pinch, key activation, etc etc
just so i know what to expect and dont do :)
looked at some youtube tutorials - but could not find one for the 93 in the wheel area :(
Doesn't seem to be anything special. Just be careful. Ease things apart. Don't touch the pins. Don't bend the pins.
Make sure that it's all square when you put it back. Don't force it.
Be really careful with the ECU, the connectors get covered in dust and muck and can be very hard to removed and very often will break when you remove them. This isn't a real problem as you can still undo them but you must be *really* careful. If you damage any pins on the ECU then you're likely to end up with a £700 bill and this is potentially an easy thing to do if you are not *really* careful.
I also doubt that fiddling around that end is going to resolve the CEL given the described problem.
thanks - just had a look under the wheel is it front of wheel or rear of wheel
screen shot looks like it the front of the car wheel
but these can be deceptive
@Audax
Thanks for that advice - any way to test the solenoid via a couple of wires off the battery , is it just a simple 12V DC on/off solenoid - last one I sorted out on a car was for a starter motor quite a few years back, when cars had points and you used feeler gauges :)
i will take it off again and recheck the extreme ends, but i was pretty sure I did all that and really made sure , as it was the third time I have taken it off
I'm happy to try anything if i can find the instructions on what to do , and although a novice on modern cars, I do have some mechanical and electronic training as an apprentice and then worked on older cars. But they did not have anything like the electronics or special settings
It's at the front of the wheel arch. There's a picture of what you are looking for in my earlier post. It looks like the connectors are at the bottom.
Quote from: etaf on 19 July 2013, 05:48:43 PM
I'm happy to try anything if i can find the instructions on what to do , and although a novice on modern cars, I do have some mechanical and electronic training as an apprentice and then worked on older cars. But they did not have anything like the electronics or special settings
Much the same as me really 8)
I used to do everything on my old MG - nothing was really a challenge other than the electrics - but now modern electrics are my worst fear on all modern cars ...Every damned thing seems to be connected!! >:( ;D
Quote.Every damned thing seems to be connected!!
or you need special equipment or computers to link into the car - well I know about electrics and computers
But taking a bit out and connecting up to the battery and testing are all long gone.
I played around with old escorts and beetles and with a haynes manual did my own serving and brake changes and most repairs for quite a few years
anyway, no garage available so i have positioned the car so i can at least get to the front safely , without anyine running me over , hopefully get to it over the weekend, if family do not take over :)
thanks for all the suggestions - any others while the tools are out welcome
i cleaned the MAS and MAF on saturday
Thanks - its been working perfectly - upto today started with no error about 25 times
my wife used the car today and drove 100miles and on the last startup in failed again
The code reader I have reads the live MAF and MAS sensor data
I just restarted 5 times just now after resetting the code - its been working fine - how I hate intermittent faults , even on PCs they are terrible things
so , next steps to look into are
the throttle body and EGR clean with Mr Muscle, the connections on the ECU and the 15min battery reset - so will plan those in over the next few days, and just go through a process of elimination
Also the gasket is available locally for £3.00
interesting my wife said it drove differently after the light was on and did not have the pull in the gears until after the revs/turbo kicked in - i have not noticed - but maybe a stranger , as she only drives a few times a year , may see it differently - But then if the engine light is on , it maybe a factor - does not seem lick limpmode , as i had a saab go into limp mode and it drove very differently
Thanks again
wayne