Hi All
Had a few problems mounting up in the cabin which are going to prove very expensive :o
Could do with a bit of advice...
Drivers window - this started getting stuck last year and I lubed up the seals and it seemed to fix the issue. However, this week it stopped working (wont go down). All there is when hitting the switch is a faint click. Also the cabin blower stopped working - just makes a feeble "puttering" noise and blows no air. :-\
So I took her into the local saab garage. They quoted me £1,200 to fix the above inclusive of 100 quid for a new tyre - but they agreed to discount it down to a round £1000 >:( They found:
Window: wiring plug snapped off motor and needs a new regulator/motor.
Fan: needs new fan and probably resistor pack.
I had a look on NeoBros and they don't have a regulator with motor - just the regulator.
The fan unit appears to be be about 100 Quid - cant seem to locate the resistor.
So what do you recon guys, shall I have a go myself? The regulator looks bloody fiddly. Anyone know good sources of parts?
Cheers
I have replaced the windw winder mechanism. It's dead easy. Well, you need care, but it was straightforward. Also note that the motor and winder are available separately. I just needed the winder bit, the motor was fine.
Also, the blower can be got at to look at very easily. Five screws to remove the glove box in one piece.
The usual failure on the motor is down to poor servicing. Water gets in. There is a pollen filter under the black panel in front of the windscreen. It has seals that need to be fitted properly. There is also a drain below the filter that should be removed ( lifted up ) and cleaned whenever the pollen filter is replaced. If this is not done the water will build up and get the fan & motor bearings wet. If the fan gets stiff the motor struggles and the regulator may be given a hard time and fail.
It will be cheaper for a garage to fit a new part rather than bodge a repair. But if you want to DIY, it could be economical.
I can find a part number for the regulator later, it's not a cheap part though. Over £100, from memory. Maybe a secondhand blower with motor and regulator together would do if your current one cannot be repaired.
Back home now!
Here's a link to the pictures I took when I did the front passenger window. The only really difficult bit was gently cutting the waterproof membrane away. I used a Stanley knife as it was winter and the glue was hard. In summer it might be possible to peel it away.
http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/sjgould2002/slideshow/9-3SS%20window%20lift
The photos stopped before the actual glass was removed. But the basics are. Drop the glass 6 inches and tape it there. You need to do this because you need the bottom of the glass accessible from the inside so that you can undo the two clamps that hold the glass. You will also have to lever up and remove the rubber strip on the outside along the bottom of the window opening. But if it's just the motor, you may not need to go that far.
Last few photos show that the handle was broken too!!
Here's the picture with the glovebox removed. The connector goes into the regulator at the bottom of the blower motor pot.
(http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj503/sjgould2002/9-3%20Parrot/DSCF0660.jpg)
Items 44 & 45 are listed as regulators. I haven't taken this bit apart, so can't tell you what to look for....
Item 44 is this one.....
Article : Regulator
PartNo : 13123053
Usage : ACC, NLS-USE 13250114
Supplementary Description : fan
Ch. --91017719
Ch. --96002132
Order Quantity : 1
Item 45 is this one....
Article : Regulator
PartNo : 90566802
Usage : 2003-2005, AC, NLS-USE 90512510
Order Quantity : 1
Thank you! These pictures are just marvelous - really helpful!
The glovebox look easy - I think I am going to try to replace just the blower motor first. My thinking is that the regulator/resistor part 44 is probably still functional because I can hear the blower turning slightly inside and I can switch it on and off (and hear this) using the controls. The blower has been noisy for a while (it sounded like there was a cricket in the dash :)) so I am guessing perhaps the bushes or the bearing have gone. If I'm wrong, well I'll just have to buy the resistor too. NeoBros has a new motor for 100 quid new. The resistor is 55 quid plus VAT.
I opened up the door this afternoon. Some years back, autoglass fixed my car after a break in - I was shocked to find loads of broken fixings and that the membrane had been torn apart.
The pins to the motor had been bent and the socket smashed (amazing that it worked at all!). I fixed the pins and plugged it back - but all it does is click - there's no movement - so tomorrow I'm going to pull the motor off and test it and inspect the regulator pulley (SG, yours was impressively tangled :) !). Maybe I can just buy the motor or just the regulator and save some cash. Neobros have a breaker motor part for 25 quid plus VAT.
The glovebox has a screw in each corner, and a fifth one at the end into a bracket near the motor. Then you need a thin flat knife or something to ease the light unit past the edge of the opening. Undo the aircon pipe and the lamp connections.
I have a photo of a broken lock that I found a year or so after a side window repair by one of the "experts". Can't say it definitely was them, but they were the only people who had been in there. Front window is so easy too, it was unnecessary.
(http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj503/sjgould2002/9-3SS%20Door%20lock/DSC01922_zps2eae24ab.jpg)
(http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj503/sjgould2002/9-3SS%20Door%20lock/DSC01915_zps2e74b1b8.jpg)
I took the motor off. Looking at the regulator, the cabling looks to be properly wound on.
The motor body looks somewhat corroded. I couldn't turn the motor wheel that drives the regulator (even with pliers) so I took it apart - even with the motor removed, the wheel is extremely stiff. I was able to turn the motor drive shaft, and there was grinding inside. Putting power into the motor from the switch, it wouldn't turn. So I recon that is my problem identified.
I'll order the parts tomorrow.
I got a new regulator from Euro Saab Parts Direct. Peter had them on special offer. He may have some motors. Maybe worth a phone call.
http://saabpartsdirect.co.uk
Some of the secondhand stuff I have bought has not been very durable.
Just remembered....
There are two different motors. One for cars with finger protection/one-touch closing and a second for cars that don't have the one-touch close.
Article : Motor
PartNo : 12788800
Usage : RH
Supplementary Description : Finger protection
Order Quantity : 1
Article : Motor
PartNo : 12788804
Usage : RH
Ch. --71108595
Order Quantity : 1
Item 32
So my parts arrived. The fan unit is new - its not genuine saab, but it looks just like the one in the photo (its actually a mirror image of the WIS schematic). The window motor is a breaker part - its pretty crappy looking but it was only 25 quid.
Question I have, what is the best way to test the power to these units - do I need to get a multimeter?
Thanks.
OK, blower all fixed. 8) The old one was full of soot and was really stiff. The garage wanted 700 quid to do this. It cost me 100 quid for the part and about 3 hours on my back in the footwell (and some of that was spent indoors avoiding the rain). It was pretty fiddly and I had to buy a flexible joint for my screwdriver to release the screws at the back of the blower which are up against the footwell ( see photo - highly recommended little widget). There was no need for a new resistor (I'm considering going back to the saab garage and asking for my money back on the diagnostic work :o). Thanks for the photos, SG - they really helped.
Now I have the window regulator problem. I put in the replacement motor but unfortunately there is no power going to it when the switch is pressed. This is probably something to do with the saab dealer because there was an audible click with the switch before they looked at and now its just dead. The other three windows work fine so I am guessing it might be a fuse?
Does anyone know where I can find the fuses for the windows and how can I tell if its blown? Thanks!
Also, just out of curiosity, while I was in the footwell with the ignition turned off - a little red lever moved (see picture) and a familiar little whirring noise could be heard - any ideas?
Cheers!
The aircon can do things to close itself down some time after everything has been switched off.
The door module controls the window. The switch is part of the door module. The door module gets battery power from fuse 5 & fuse 15 in the fusebox at the end of the dashboard.
I think you have to get in there and look. I still suspect a bodge inside or something has broken and seized up.
Aha, I see. So if the other three windows are working would that suggest the fuse to the module is not blown? Or is there a fuse for each window?
I did test the power to the motor with a DC screwdriver tester - I ran a positive test using the courtesy light and the screwdriver light up - but it would not light up when testing the window motor connector on the broken window. I hope the switch or the wiring isn't at fault.
I think your right, I need to look in the fuse box.
Fuse 5 feeds the driver and passenger door modules.
Fuse 15 just feeds the driver's door.
I meant that you need to get into the door and see if the wires have jammed on the window regulator.
I'm a bit stumped.
The regulator seems to be ok. I can move the window by turning the regulator with the a pair of mole grips (motor removed). Its pretty difficult, but it is free and it appears to be wound on correctly. I only lowered the window a cm and them wound it back up.
My big concern is the electrics. As I mentioned, when I took it to the garage, there was a click when hitting the switch. It doesn't do that any more nor can I detect any power to the motor terminals with my tester when the switch is deployed. I pulled fuses to see if the regulator is fused independently and to see if it had blown. Pulling 15 had no effect that I could detect. Pulling 5 paralysed the LH door. Pulling 8 paralysed the RH door and threw immobiliser failures. So I concluded that the door module and the windows are in series and that the fuses had not blown.
So now I am concerned that the window switch, right hand is broken. Or the wiring loom. Can't see any bent pins.
EDIT: ok, now I'm really foxed. Its all working fine ;D put it all back together and it works - the motor was labouring a bit so I greased the runners with calcium grease and lubed the side seals. I suspect that the rear plug which fits into the door switch module and takes power to the motor may not have been refitted flush (seems to be a bit wobbly).
But there we go. They wanted £1000 to fix it. DIY cost £125.
I've seen the connectors to the door module broken. Some garages don't notice that the connector winches in with the U shaped lever rotating around the connector and clipping into place. If that's missing or not clipped in properly, it will fall out.