a couple of weeks ago after around 1 hrs driving it lost all power , by that i mean struggling to rev upto 1500 rps ,engine light on, plumes of white smoke & engine shudder and vibration , pulled into lay-by turned it off/on and everything was fine ..
today , sort of the same thing happened again , after an hours drive lost power, shuddered & light came on but this time it 'cleared itself' and went back to normal after about 5-7 seconds .. drove another 20 mile then parked up and popped into town , on start up engine light on , massive shuddering & white smoke .. turned it off & waited 10secs , started and again it's fine ...
over a year ago i had the eml on constant and after about an hours drive it would go into limp mode ( that time i could get it to rev upto 3000) i changed the maf with a 2nd hand 1 and it's been ok ever since ..
could it be that again ? .. unlike last time though im getting a lot of shuddering and white smoke though when it goes wrong so im at a bit of a loss ..
interested in anyone elses thoughts ???
i wonder if any1 could help with the problem above ?
since written it's only been on 1 long journey and again it went into limp mode for a few seconds and cleared itself ..
Is this related to your search for a new inlet manifold?
It might help diagnosis if you listed all the issues in a single thread :)
no it isnt , in january i had a 2nd hand cylinder head from a scrap yard as 2 of my followers broke cracking the original, i had it put on at a garage and i thought all was well .
drove around for a few months thinking something wasnt right as it didnt seem to have the poke as it used to have and started checking for air leaks as id had before in numerous places around the engine , rubber seal between air filter & maf , the air filter cover itself warped on the joint being just 2 which caused the same symptoms as i was experiencing , then i noticed black soot escaping from the left hand bottom corner of the inlet manifold which once remove showed the problem to be the 3 bolts held/bodged in by thread lock ..
now i cant prove the mechanic did it or the manifold was like that as it came with the head so i bought a recoil set and new gaskets did it myself and all was well , the turbo poke was back at 2.500 rpm and i was chuffed .
then , a few months later this happened with the limp mode , so took everything off and cleaned it , i 'stupidly' took the inlet manifold off again to see if it had held , which it had and replaced but , as id previously tightened all the remaining bolts to their limit last time now they wouldnt tighten at all so i had to drill every1 and recoil ( i know , im a c**k ) and i dont think or im just paranoid that it's right so id rather have a completely different manifold *with threads* & fit new gaskets for peace of mind ...
ive learnt *dont over tighten aluminium threads*
Anyway today ive taken it for another diagnostic as before it came up showing nothing and after some messing about with , it's produced 2 codes , P0105 & P0335..
now the 1st is map sensor and the 2nd being crankshaft sensor ?
but why would both only cause problems on a long journey/ or over an hours drive ?
if it was the crankshaft sensor wouldnt it just stall ?
but saying that , it has on a couple of occasions been harder to start ...
and the mpg is low and surely a crankshaft sensor wouldnt cause that would it ?
I know nothing about the diesel. But on the petrol engine the crankshaft position sensor seems to be temperature sensitive. So failing when it gets hot is not out of the question.
The 2.2 doesn't need a crankshaft signal to run. If it loses the crankshaft signal it will use a signal from the diesel pump to calculate timing *but* it will sound like a bag of old nails while it does this. The MAP sensor is probably full of soot or you've got an air leak.
id read this on another saab forum and this was leading me towards a failing cps :
*saab 9-3 limp mode intermittent engine light coming on, restricting power, then light going off after a second or two and power back to normal*.
The car needs to know 3 positions to work out where within the "map" the engine is at any given load & speed.
To do this it needs to know where the Crankshaft (sensor 1) Camshaft (sensor 2) & speed/ engine rpm (3rd sensor ) is. It then knows where BTDC (Before Top Dead Centre) is, and adjusts the fuel mix accordingly
If one of the sensor fails, or sends an abnormal value, the 'MAP' contains enough data for the car to run normally usually with no problems.
Once the data moves out of the safe area of the MAP it will throw a CEL as it effectively doesn't know where the crank cam & pistons are.... hence limp mode it knows that below 3K rpm it can use set default values that will enable the car to limp home.
however now sgould has mentioned temperature sensitive im rather worried ...
ive not put the 2 problems together but, ive had to top up with water every 10 - 14 days prolly since easter , not much but still a top up, on wednesday i was sitting in 3 lanes of traffic on a hot day so i had the window open , i turned the car off to save fuel then noticed a 'overheating smell* i looked around & thought someones has got trouble with their car ( not thinking it could be me )
got home popped the bonnet and checked the water which seemed low , unscrewed the cap and noticed black bits all round the water line which i cant remember seeming before, the bits arent oil consistency but biscuit like so i cleaned the particles out the best i could and they havent returned but ive lost more water so im guessing head gasket .
im clutching at straws because as you can tell im no mechanic but, could it be a knackered thermostat or something which now has over cooked the engine and somehow caused the previous problem with the cps then ?
i spose i need a head gasket test but im embarrassed to say that i just cant afford it, im trying to source a 2nd hand cps as im desperate to get rid ( which sgould has help with on another forum which i salute him for )
i'll swap map & cps then see how it goes but dont go away on holiday you lot or im proper stuffed ;)
when i have the codes read i had them cleared and , h'obviously i dont want to speak too soon but, today it's just done 240 mile without a glitch , i was even getting 45 to the gallon according to the sid
it's still a sod to start in the morning but im not sure whether theres an air leak in the fuel system , so i'll swap the fuel pipe for clear so i can see .
but im still losing water which is a concern so i'll have to get a head gasket tester
appreciate all the help , many thanks
((( sigh )))
had the codes cleared and it's been ok but it's getting increasingly harder to start
i replaced with a new battery thinking the old 1 had a dead cell , travelled into town and eml came on , complete loss of power and plumes of black smoke , then it went back to normal after about 5 seconds ..
replaced the crank sensor then this morning again hard to start and engine shudder but cleared after 10 seconds ..
theres fuel at the pump and it's not cold enough for the plugs to kick in so why whys it taking so long to start ?
Difficult to pin down, but do you have two problems?
The smoke might be an air/fuelling issue and the starting difficulty may be something else.
The 2.2 diesel suffers from air leaks through perished leak-off pipes at the cylinder head. The problem is worse if the car is pointing uphill. Perished pipes will give bad starting, but I've not heard of the problem causing running difficulties.
you just answered me on the other forum ...
it's got really worse since wednesday , but it's been deteriorating for weeks and now it wont start at all, it's just run the new battery flat
i cant understand that, when i fitted the new battery and took it out, it's goes into limp mode and loses all power and all the smoke and then clears ?
like i said , it's had new injection seals when i had a new head 6 moths ago + rail pipes ..
looks like im not in work tomorrow as i'll be trying to find another car , ive had me fill of this 1 n think im going to scrap it , twice now it's let me down for work and cant afford to carry on with it ..
cheers anyway you're a star
wait ! 5.50 and it's going .. put another freshly charged battery and jump leads to the other car and it fired ...
just hope she's so gallant tomorrow morning at 3.30am
*crosses fingers*
Good Luck! :)
Diesel pump? Googling shows a few similar stories of control board having to be repaired at 900 quid a shot. This is one of the things that worried me about the 2.2 TiD.
Similar symptoms of poor starting when cold in one bloke burnt out his starter. Not got an indy round your way that can have a look?
http://www.ecutesting.com/saab_93___95_bosch_vp44_diesel.html <-- may be of interest if it is the pump
If it is the diesel pump then you can't have the pump in this car reconditioned, it was only the earlier pumps fitted up to MY00 but diesel pump failure is reasonably uncommon. It's far more likely that a cold start problem is the injector return/leak off pipes are perished and need replacing but this isn't the kind of problem that can be diagnosed over the internet really. I'd suggest the original poster gets the car to a SAAB specialist who understands diesels.
bought a inlet manifold from a scrappy and 2 new gaskets from vauxhall and it's still hard to start .
i give up
Did you check the leak off pipes?
it had new ones 6 months ago but just to make sure i changed them again last week..
it's still hard to start and on wednesday it's started to 'chug' like a narrowboat when it manages to fire up . this chug will last around 1/2 minutes the it'll run as normal .
once it's started it will tear down the motorway no problem and it's good as gold but, it's just a sod to start ...
.... i really have no idea
this is it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIAT5zITkfM
at the start it chuggs then near the end of the video after i rev it it goes to normal
now i've rpm increase when ive pressed the clutch to change up/down gears ..
====================
i think ive found a problem , whether it's 'the' problem im not too sure ...
ive noticed soot around the turbo casing by the arm which moves the waste gate valve , and when i rev it i can see a small puff of smoke around that area being blown backwards towards the bulkhead, you have to look hard but it's noticeable but for the life of me a cant see where it's coming from .
could be the cause of my problems ?
it's the pump , more specifically it's the pump timing ... no wonder it's been hard to start but im quite lucky really that it's been a gradual failure instead of it just packing up as these BOSCH VP44 pumps are renowned for .