Hey guys, I don't know where to start with this....
The boot won't open with either the key fob or the boot release button in the drivers door card.
Where do I start and how do I open the boot. I realise I can gain access via the rear seats........
Thanks
What year is your car? Some have a hidden keyhole in the boot lid, it's most likely the wiring to the boot lid has broken in the flexy joint.
I'm guessing at broken wires where the wires enter by the hinge, use the key to open the boot then pull back the corrugated rubber and check the wires for breakages
If you have no keyhole in the boot lid, you will have to crawl into the boot and remove the trim panel. If you have a keyhole, it will be in lid in the area of the right hand light.
The problem will almost certainly be this:
(http://gallery.me.com/hahnenuk/100549/DSC02124/web.jpg)
Thanks Guys
It's a 2004 model 3.0 TID
When the panel is removed what do I look for to open the lid from the inside?
Thanks again...........
I have not done this!
But it looks as if you need to pull the rod between the lock itself and the lock motor.
If you haven't removed the trim panel fasteners before, they need to be undone properly. Then it's easy. You need to press in the centre of the fastener about 1/8th inch, then the whole fastener can be pulled out. To get the centre pressed in the correct amount, there is a lug on the back of the screwdriver in the toolkit in the boot (hopefully you can get to it....)
There are also two screws holding the closing handle.
And the four plastic pins holding the centre of the boot lid just pull out, albeit needing a very strong pull. These would have held the clips for the warning triangle on early models.
Brilliant!
Where did you get the image from?
Very useful, thanks
I've got a workshop manual CD.
And there's another link before you get to the latch.
Thanks guys
Exactly as described. The wires beneath the flexi sheath were a complete mess. One severed completely, and many more were showing copper cables!
Used a 7 core trailer socket cable, but had to use the individual cores as it was too think to pass through. I joined using bullet connectors at the main wiring loom plug and and at the many connections within the boot.
So sorted......
Thanks again
Fantastic Forum!!
Glyn
Well Done! :)
Good fix. I think that's the way I would have done it too.
If the repaired section ever chafes through again - just unplug it and plug in a new section!
As well as the info being spot on, it's good that the OP gave some feedback, not only polite to do so, but it will help others, maybe. On various forums we see so many threads left hanging.
A bit late now but...
Part of the reason this happens is that the wires do not have enough cores in and don't flex well. I wouldn't have honestly thought trailer wire would be much better to be honest.
If I were doing it I would used some multi-stranded silicon test lead wire- readily available on eBay :) and designed to withstand multiple flexing :). Or possibly speaker cable.
Well thanks...... LOL But at least I'll know what to do in 6 years time :)
Cheers!