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I messed about for a while with having them resealed on the 900. Bit the bullet and had them refurbished by Prestige Wheels in the Peak District. Honestly they lost almost nothing for 8 years. I've just got a 2008 9-5 Aero Estate and am seeing how leaky the alloys are and might have them all done. Unlike the rest of the car, there's a cosmetic case for having these done too which may swing it

It's all holding up so far.

I managed to be able to screw it sufficently tight using a wratchet screwdriver from above....

Thanks all - a weeklend job being planned. I think I've lost loads so will flush and replace. Had a new thermostat 6 years ago, so may not replace that but not made my mind up yet. Will report back! Cheers

Hi all - had a sudden drop of coolant last night - a load of steam and a coolant low warning. Was luckily very close to home and got back before the temerature rose too high.

Had a look this morning and one of hoses behind the driver side head light is to blame - a very rusty clamp has given way and the hose has come off. I was wondering if you could advise on when to add the coolant once I've fixed? When cold? I'll obvs need to keep an eye out afterwards for the level.

Thanks in advance - and sorry for a seemingly basic question

I'm obvs not looking hard (well) enough, but the only things going into the bulkhead towards the driver's side are cabling - hard etc. Will have anpother look

Anyway, I've had another close inspection and I think the short hose from the air pressure sensor to the throttle body if not leaking now will be soon - it's way too fiddly for me to change so might need some help on that one but I'll do that next. The short hose from the fuel pressure regulator looks pretty good and I assume has been changed proactively at service time or something.

Thanks again!

Hi everyone, the wobble continued but I've managed to take another look and recheck the hoses. During a much more thorough search in better light, I have found a small slash in the hose running from the turbo bypass valve. It was in one part pretty perished.

I've managed to replace it with some spare hose and the car started very well and idled fine. A miniscule wobble on the
the turbo gauge remains, but much, much better and I think the primary issue resolved.  The spare hose was silicone and smaller so it was hard to get on at the throttle body end - worth replacing with some bigger?

The hoses carrera refers to in figure 3 are fine. Might check the ICV and see if TB needs a clean when I have time.

Thanks again for the help, you bunch of Saab legends.

Many thanks for this, will take a good look around asap

You'll know more than me! Thanks, we might be alright then. That screw with rubber, well, it's got a round head and looks like you couldn't turn it...

Chaps, by way of an update, and again, thanks. Have done 400 successful miles in the old beast since I last posted and although I cannot spend too much time looking at the wobble for obvious reasons (!), it seems to dissapear when car is hot, and has been for a while. I've now taken a look at all the hoses.

The one I assume goes directly to the gauge - as it dissapears into the bulkhead on the drivers side - is original, judging by the amount of grime on its small white sticker and the zip tie looks ancient. It's in good condition. What I did find was that the clear hose that comes off the breather nipple is not attached to anything. So it looks like it should go between the two large pipes beneath the turbo (attachment) so I have attached it and fired it up and after some initial wobble when idling it calmed down and was still (or almost still, the kind of wobble one would never spot unless looking).

I am a true novice on cars, does this sound right?!

Just spotted Carrera's post - will give that a go ASAP.

You guys are brilliant, thanks for quick responses. I'll see what I can find

Chaps - any pointers of where this probloem might lie gratefully received. The turbo gauge wobbles when idling. Rev counter static, but can hear the tiniest change in revs. Any thought? Thanks in advance

To add my experiences - a generic CPS failed after 5 years on me before xmas. After 15 years and 125k the original failed. With hindsight the hot starting signs were there before the electrics went crazy on that one. But I was unaware these generic parts are poor! Anyway, the generic replacement failed after 5 years.

Luckily I got into a side road opposite Buckingham Palace before hitting Marble Arch or the M1! It lurched then stalled, would not start until cold. I got recovered and replaced with a genuine Bosch part. Potentially a dangerous failure. Would start and run for about 10 mins, the recovery guy recommended setting off to Sheffield but luckily it went again and I got recovered.

The failed part looked like it had got too hot and some wire was exposed and it'd short circuited.

The only sign was a similar lurch, without stalling, back in July - but it was 35 degrees c that day and I put it down to a  confused car.

Do not replace with a generic CPS!

Excellent, will get a rubber washer and fit. Cheers

That is awesome!

Hello all

When checking my oil I noticed this broken pipe and blamed it for a bad smell coming into the cabin. Had the car in to have an earth point sorted and asked them to rectify. They said they couldn't source the part so glued it and didn't charge me. The glue didn't last long - it melted -  and it's cracked again. I've sourced a second hand part and want to replace bit, but can someone tell me what it is so I can find some instructions please?! E.g. is it pressurised or will a liquid come out. 

It's a B204L engine. Thanks in advance!