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Just got my new battery-starter cable £14 instead of £80+ odd only took a week from Sweden

Hi
A quick heads up (ive found this) Saabparts online are clearing out (some) of their 9000 stock at very low prices and NOT replacing them again.

go grap um quick.   http://www.saabpartsonline.co.uk

Chris

Most summer tyres are reasonably good in the dry. The tests ive read seem to vary by about 15%. in the wet its a different story
I liked the hyrdagrips because of their Wet grip and wet stopping distance give we have an ave of 200 wetdays a year in the UK, and yes it was a trade off against longdevity and fuel ecconomy. The static grip on these whernt that high ie any over enhusiasm with the loudpedal from a standing start and them wheels would spin, but the rolling grip was very good not once did they feel like they were braking way regardless of how looney i drove.

The strange thing that has always struck me, is the desire to "save money by buying cheaper tyres" but at the same time are also happy with a many many hundred of pounds insurance excess if you have a prang, so pepes will pay to have a fender bender ! but wont pay to avoid one,  Weird, or is it just cos im an ex-biker ?  where bad tyres = pain (sometimes extreame) ?  How the word insurance seems to have changed since i was a biker.

However I contacted a very nice man at Goodyear technical support who just happened to have the same tyres on his car. He advised me to put their effecentgrips on the fronts as this will improve my ecconomy a bit whilst not compromising the wet performance very much or unballancing the car which would be the case if i put the vector 4 seasons on the fronts. As the existing rubber will be at a higher temprature >7c after warming up even if the road temp is down at 3-5c. And to look at running wintershoes later on, if it proves to be a bad winter (when i can afford it) and there will be good deals on winter tyres about then (he did hint that ultragrip8 @ the end of oct might have one).   
So im still thinking about it.

Thx for the link

i see only the NT3000 are available in 195/65 profile with a 91v rating.  Are their any independant comparison tests of these tyres ?
google hasnt revield any to me.

Chris

My loverly goodyear hyragrip fronts have worn out. (they deminished very quickly from about 4mm in only a few 000miles)
The local tyre emporium suggested i put either EfficientGrip or excellents on the fronts as their is no replacements for the hyrda's.
Researching ive found that these are summer shoes.
Their all  year Vector4 tyres have a completly different tread pattern,  so i dont know how that will effect the handling on my 9000T cde?
damn you Goodyear for making my life hard
Money is very tight at present as im not currently working, so im not free to experiment.
So my quandrey is
1) should i buy the excellents for the front during the summer and swop front and rears for the winter months
2) should i buy the efficients for the front during the summer and swop front and rears for the winter months
3) get the Vectors ?
4) get a completely different tyre for the fronts ? if so what ?
5) anyone here got better ideas ?

tnx  Chris

Chris

Mark B
They did do one, check with thier "chief mechanic" its a polybush with thier "made for it metal sleeve" that fits nicely in the mouting. Without that sleeve the polybush flexes too much and doesnt fit properly. I wish I had bought thier one instead of all the hassle i had bodging the aftermarket non-abbot poly bush to get it to fit, but one lives and learns as they say.

chris

Thanks guys

I ended up in euro's and got some Pagids as they had no ATE or Frodo. Better safe than sorry.

I fitted a used one from saabjaguarspares (the complete pot) lucky as one of the retaing tabs broke as soon as it was moved- plastic had gone brittle.
I made up a tool to fit the ring so that went well with no broken tabs on the ring. It was well in there and took quite a bit of leaverage to start the ring moving. Took about 20mins once i'd removed the rear seat back (made the job so much more comfortable than laying on my stomarch in the boot) and everything else out of the boot.
Primed the system and it fired up 1st time.
The strange thing was there was a lot of plastic ribbon about 3-4mm wide wrapped around the float arm - got no idea where that came from.

Just a round-robin from those who have a great(er) experiance, (than me).
Im trying to get an understanding of the life expectancy of a fuel pump.

yep thats right mine has failed, circa 135,000 miles and im trying to find if its worth getting a 2nd hand unit or not ?

ALSO HAS ANYONE got the ring removal tool the would be prepared to lend/hire to me :lol  he says hopefully?

 hi got this link from the olde saabscene website
a 3rd alternative to my suggestions
I hope it helps.
http://saab9000.com/procedures/tools/tensioner.php

Abbott Racing do a poly gearbox replacment bush (as well as the top bushes)- its comes with the correct mounting sleave -other simular aftermarket ones dont. - I know I went down that route and it cost me a lot more than buying the abbott kit in the end.
The hydrolic bottom mounts are pretty robust but will break if the others arnt replaced when required.

My 93 9kCDE needs new pads what are these like the seem to be a bit cheaper than the OEM/SAAB ones.
  i know the answers probably on the olde forum but i cant access that nowdays.

There is a special tool for doing the belt tension  detals were on the old forum which i cant access now (seems it doesnt like my email address so no password reset).
basically its either a spanner with a very large lever (mines 30inches long) attached to it, or you can make a belt compressor with a bit of DIY engineering and a suspension spring compressor.
I had to change mine a couple of yrs ago due to the same reason its def sounds like yours is knackered if it wont compress.