Messages

It could be that the EGR valve needs replacing. If after it's been cleaned and the car still goes into limp mode especially when accelerating, then this could be the problem.

I've had it done on my car and the car was back to normal straight away. Most Saab garages/garages have done loads of these as it's a common problem.

As Audax says don't put Dexron in the newer boxes!! You can also buy ATF 3309 from a Vauxhall dealership, amongst others, and it's usually cheaper than the bottles of Mobil.

I know I'm not asking for much!! But as I do around 30-35k per annum, I would like one with sub 60k on the clock ideally do I can run for at least 4 years before changing again. Will probably have to buy a newer shape one in the end. But you never know...I regularly check on Autotrader. There was one quite recently that sold to the first person who viewed it. Shame as I was very interested.

The difficulty now is finding an old shape 2.2 estate with low miles and reasonable spec. The youngest is now 7 years old. If I could find one in very good condition, good history & spec with up to 50k ish on the clock I would change mine, but it's becoming increasingly difficult.
I've had a V70 in the past and agree they're good cars, but they do have a terrible turning circle and the boot lid on the estate doesn't go up high enough if you're tall.

Mine's on 156k (2.2tid) and still going strong. But I will look at changing it fairly soon for another with far fewer miles on the clock, purely because I'm doing 30-35k per annum with my business. But I have been thinking whether it may be better just to run it into the ground. The main dilemma is I need a car available day in, day out and inevitably as the miles climb things will need replacing meaning time off the road.
When having a look on Autotrader, I can't see much else that offers the space and comfort of a 9-5 for the price. They are excellent value for money secondhand.

The SID on my 2.2 estate is currently showing 51.4 mpg. I'm aware this may not be totally accurate. My mileage is mainly motorway and A roads mixed with some town driving as well. It dips to 47-48 mpg in the colder winter months.
I use the climate control as and when I need it rather than on Auto all the time. When on for long periods the mpg drops approx 6-8%.
The best I've got out of a tank is 765 before refuelling. The light was on a bit too long for comfort! I think if I stayed on motorways/A roads only I could achieve 800 plus.
You mention your driving is mainly around town. Even so, I would hope to see 35-40 mpg on average.
From what I've read, there isn't too much difference between the 2.2 and 1.9 engines when it comes to fuel economy.

Not sure that I'd agree on that one. I currently have some cheap aero blades from wipers.co.uk on my 9-5 at present. They've only been on a month or two but they're already squeeking which is really, really annoying. Previously I had genuine Saab (GM) aero blades and they lasted nearly two years and were excellent. Only changed them because winter was coming and thought the new ones would be better. I now wish I'd left the old ones on! I bought the genuine ones on ebay but can't find them anymore, so I'm considering the Bosch ones.

Just serviced and mot'd (flew through with no problems) my 2.2 estate. I supplied my Indy with Mobil 1 last year, but this time I also went for Shell Helix Ultra 5w 40 based upon the recommendations on here. Engine seems a bit quieter, but to my ear not hugely so as yet.

I can second car parts connexions. You have to search to see if the part you want us available. But there are some bargains to be had.

Well, I've also got a C900 convertible which has a much stiffer clutch than my 9-5. I also drive the odd pool car from time to time at work as well. So, I like to think I would have noticed something different. But you never know...
I've always found the 9-5's clutch very light and easy compared to many cars and have not noticed the biting point being any higher than before.

The car's done 136k. I presume it's the original, so it's lasted pretty well.
I suppose how long it'll last is the question. I'm mainly on the motorway or A roads so it's not being given a tough time in the main.
Roughly how long do you have (time/miles wise) once the clutch starts to slip (I presume this will be the next stage)??

A quick question. I was told by somebody that my clutch was on its way out after they briefly drove the car (9-5 2.2 tid estate). I said how can that be as it's not slipping or behaving in any strange way whatsoever.

I was then told that it's because the biting point is high and towards the end of the clutch's travel, so that's how they know it's on its way out.

Can anyone clarify whether this is true or not. To be honest I haven't noticed the biting point being particularly higher than it was a year ago.

Took my car to the Saab Indy I use for servicing. I only used the dealer becasue they had a special offer on regarding air con. He plugged the car up and no faults showed up on the air con or anywhere on the car. So I think maybe Steve was right when he said the dealer may have been looking for some extra work?? These visual health checks that they offer could be potentially damaging on your pocket to anyone unsuspecting. Otherwise I'm confused even further!!

I think it is all dealers. I went to Astley in Yeovil. The Saab Service Club is for vehicles 3+ years in age, details on the Saab website. I originally responded to an e-mail I'd received from Saab UK about a air con de bug (not re gas) and summer check for £29.95. But was then told a re-gas and full system check was £49. So, I'm not a 100% sure it is only for older cars or not as this wasn't actually said and I didn't actually ask.
Steve440, I think you may be right (difficult to know for certain though) as the car was given a full visual health check whilst it was there. Several of things that cropped up surprised me! My car has FSH and has never even had an advisory on its MOT and was only bought from said dealer 20 months ago, but I have covered 30k miles since then.
I would still like to know if a 0 is show on the in car display after an air con fault check why doesn't something come up if my compressor is supposedly faulty or heading that way???

What part of the world does your guy operate in??