PROCEDURE. 2003 Saab 9-3SS Aero - Rear Brake Disc and Pads - Removal etc.

[chris aka zaphod]

Fairly straightforward  job, providing you have the correct tools, and know-how.

Under the bonnet, take the cap to the brake resevoir off. If you have replenished, be prepared for spillage.

So, it's first loosen the wheel lugs, before jacking the car up, and securing on an axle stand. Make sure the handbrake is off, car in gear, and front wheels are chocked.
Then, after removing their small, plastic covers, remove the retaining nuts for the calliper. You will need an E45 star drive. Remove the retaining clips that keep both parts of the calliper together.

You will need the wind the calliper in (clockwise - Saabs are counter to the rest of the world), using a special calliper tool. Do not buy the generic one that says it fits all Saabs, as below:

It does not fit this one, as the adapter plate's pins are too wide apart.

I used number 7 from the following set - a worthy investment for the vehicles in the fleet, and the family's too.


If you are replacing the discs, too, then undo the retaining screw. Often these are rusted in, and the head is useless, as was on both sides on this car. There are more than one way to remove them. I applied liberal quantities of WD40, and hammered a couple of hole punches into the head at the edge of the screw. Eventually angling the blows, the screw will begin to turn. Making two holes - easier still.

You will see that there is a retainer for the outer pads. This does not have to be removed with the Aero, and its ventilated discs, but with some other models, it does. Good luck with it. You will need an E18 star socket, and over 100 lb/ft torque to remove them. They also have been 'loctited'.

The disc may need a couple of hits with a hammer, as they often become melded to the hub itself. Don't overdo this, or you will damage the wheel bearings on any car.
I hit around a dozen times between the wheel lug holes, and the disc will pop off.

And so, replacement is the reversal of fitting.

I always create a small chamfer on the leading edge of new disc pads, and also smear copperease where the pad meets the calliper piston, to prevent squealing. Boot polish will do, if you do not have this. Make sure that the small holes here line up with the pins on the pad. You may have some fun and games putting back the calliper bolts due to the sprung outer pad.

Before a test drive, pump the brake pedal, so that the system is pressurised.

Drive carefully for the first 200 miles, while pad and discs bed in. No harsh braking. After this, check the wheel lugs for looseness.


Here's a piccy, taken in fading light, of what I plan to do with the callipers - I could not do a repaint today, due to the urgency in completing the job, as well as fighting the elements.



HTH

[nine-fiver]

So let me get this straight. To do a simple pad change on the rears I am going to need 'The Special Factory Tool' to get it sorted? Tell me I am wrong.

[chris aka zaphod]

I cannot tell you you are wrong, if you use the right tools. There's always a bodge. Some make up a wooden block instead, some use a pair of pliers or similar and brute force, some file down the pins on the first tool adapter to fit - a bit of a job and leaves the plate weaker etc, etc...

[aerojon]

So let me get this straight. To do a simple pad change on the rears I am going to need 'The Special Factory Tool' to get it sorted? Tell me I am wrong.

it's not a special factory tool,most/all marques(saab,vauxhall,ford & renault being some) these days use a brake piston wind back tool..normally only for the rears..