Passenger front door getting very stiff to shut

Started by mikeloadsasaabs, 18 April 2013, 06:04:13 PM

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mikeloadsasaabs

I'm at a bit of a loss with what seems to be a very simple problem! I have oiled the hinges and the stay bar, but the door is continually stiffening up to the extent that I can't just push it and let it go to close it, I have to keep hold of it & push it all the way. It's getting difficult to openw hen the camber is against it as well. I'm using proper oil rather than WD40. Any ideas?

JB

Sounds like the oil isn't getting inside the hinge where I guess it's needed. You may need to use WD40 which should be able to penetrate more easily. Once it's freed up then use some oil or silicone grease spray.

jmblack

I've been having a similar problem  - door seems well aligned so no issue there....

sgould

#3
The bit that the stay goes into is a bit more complicated than it looks.  I think it has some sprung ball bearings that "grip" the indentations in the stay bar.  If these have seized or broken, it could be giving you the stiff door.  Have a look at the attachment picture.

You can unbolt the whole stay thing.  If the door is still stiff, then you have eliminated it andit must be the hinges.
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sgould

#4
Another quick thought.  Way back on my first 1998 9-5, I think I had similar symptoms.  I think I found that the stay fixing bolts (12) into the front wing were loose, and the stay bar was not running straight and true into the hole in the housing.
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mikeloadsasaabs

I'll take a look and report back over the next couple of days. Living where we do, parking on a slope is sometimes inevitable and it's getting hard work  ::)

mikeloadsasaabs

Well, took a look yesterday, disconnected the door stay but no difference. The bottom hinge is clean but there is a lot of rusty sludge in the top hinge. So I have flushed out what I can with WD40 and it seems to be a lot better. The top hinge must be exposed to the weather and it doesn't seem to have done the top hinge pin any good. Not terminal, do doubt it will last the life of the car, unlike the hinge pins in the old Mini I used to have when I first started driving. Remember the dropping doors on those?  :o

Geoff1951

Quote from: mikeloadsasaabs on 24 April 2013, 07:04:03 PM
... unlike the hinge pins in the old Mini I used to have when I first started driving. Remember the dropping doors on those?  :o



Oh, yes.

You could buy replacements from Halfords that you had to drift in. And at the same time fit a steering column lowering bracket. And handles to replace the doorlock pull cords. And an angled extension for the yard-long gear lever. And extensions for the flick switches. And replace the dozen screws keeping the grille in place with two knurled chrome knobs. And put Roadrunner stickers on the boot.  And footprint stickers on the roof. But the best bit was the Oselli Stage one tuning kit. Gas flowed head and manifold and re-jetted SU.

Ah, nostalgia. Ain't what it used to be.


mikeloadsasaabs

Quote from: Geoff1951 on 24 April 2013, 07:27:31 PM
But the best bit was the Oselli Stage one tuning kit. Gas flowed head and manifold and re-jetted SU.

Ah, nostalgia. Ain't what it used to be.
Had one of those on my Mini 1000, plus a 1.5" SU to replace the standard 1.25". Didn't seem to make a lot of difference TBH - the only time I really noticed it was when I took the carb off to sell the car, it felt really strangled! The rest of the car was pretty much as delivered with absolutely every optional extra listed fitted - inertia reel seat belts, eyeball fresh air vents, and (wait for it)
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heated rear screen!  8)

sgould

In my first Morris Minor the heater was an option! :o
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Geoff1951

Ah, Mike, that'll have been later than mine - one of the last Mark 1's, a 1967 Morris Mini-Minor 850, original small rear lights and back window.

JB

Hopefully a bit more WD40 over the next few days/weeks will see it working as it should.

After leaving it for a while (to allow most of the WD40 to disappear) then perhaps spray on some silicone lubricant which should be better at repelling any water that gets back on to it so it doesn't happen again.

weetabixface

now you have cleaned it out with WD40 apply some lithium grease, will last a lot longer and is more appropriate for lubricating the door mechanism

W

Norfolk Jim

Quote from: Geoff1951 on 24 April 2013, 10:45:28 PM
Ah, Mike, that'll have been later than mine - one of the last Mark 1's, a 1967 Morris Mini-Minor 850, original small rear lights and back window.
You can't beat the original Austin Cooper 'S' Geoff.........................especially when crafted like mine was with 1360 race tuned and jack Knight crash box + 2 huge twin choke webbers.......185 at wheels  8)

Norfolk Jim

You're not getting old Mike are you???

Use some good old 'PlusGas'..........that shifted bird shite easily as well................