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Messages - BOF

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1
I'm not even looking for £1500....   I paid £3K for the car nearly five years ago, so I don't think it owes me much.

2
Oh S**t. Forgot to say. Doh!! Yes, it's a 9-5.

3
The car is a 2003 manual Aero estate, genuine 57K miles, FSH to 30K. I've serviced it ever since. I've had it since October 2008. It runs fine, accelerates, tracks and brakes straight, tyres wear evenly, so the running gear is all fine. Full leather, climate control (blows cold), usual electrical toys. AS2 audio. Double Evo alloys, good tyres, new MoT, tax to next March.

So far so good. BUT: it was a Cat C write-off at just over 30K miles... The bodging git that rebuilt it used a second-hand bumper, and not enough plasticiser in the paint, so the front bumper is a real mess; not cracked or damaged, but badly stone-chipped, and it looks S**T. Minor wheelarch scuffs to both rears, but they ARE minor. Some peeling lacquer, but (front bumper apart) it looks quite presentable, and the interior is fine.

It has to go (supplanted by an old E-class Merc). The Cat C will obviously depress the value, and I really have no idea what to ask for it. Gentlemen, over to you for your opinions; any and all gratefully received.

BOF3

4
Would it have made a difference if she'd been pretty, wityh a low neckline and big boobs...?

5
Bugger! I used the spare headlight (both polycarbonate cover and main plastic moulding) in the oven. It melts at somewhere between 150 and 170 degrees Centigrade; the mastic (I took a little slice off the heasdlight unit I want to repair) is a little bit more pliable, but definitely not soft or sticky, at that temperature.

As I said, BUGGER! Looks like a s/h unit off eBay is favourite, then.

BOF

6
I was thinking more of using a hairdryer....

7
Afternoon all. Long time no post, but I'm back.

I'm trying to sort out one xenon headlight on my '03 9-5. I have a spare (dismantled) unit for parts.

The problem is that the levelling motor within the unit is knackered; it turns, but the beam does not move. Typical Valeo stripped internal gearing, I think.

The only way in is by removing the headlamp plastic cover. Can anyone tell me whether the mastic that holds the cover in place softens with heat? (If not, I probably can't get it off without doing too much damage...)

Please help.

BOF


8
Thank you for that. I'll take a look when the weather improves.

9
I think the car has answered the question. The fault became intermittent, and has now gone away (for the moment - it will recur...), so it looks very much like a loose connection.

As one headlight leveller worked OK at all times, I assume that signals were coming from the sensors. I also assume that each sensor only sends a single signal, not one to each headlight, so that means the LH headlight was either not receiving, or not reacting to, the signals.  Does anyone on here think/know different?

If I'm correct, logically the loose connection should be in the wiring to the LH headlight. I have (and can use) a multimeter, but I'm no car electrician. Does anyone know where would be the best place to start wiggling wires and swearing?

BOF

10
Good morning gentlemen; long time no post, but I'm still around - and so is my 9-5 (2003) with xenons, and the warning light has come on. The offside beam moves up, then down (a little - not all the way) when I switch them on, then stops; the nearside does not move at all. The warning light comes on only when the offside beam has stopped moving. I can also hear a low-pitched sound - like someone rubbing one of the strings of a cello - during beam movement, which I suppose must be the levelling motor doing its stuff - or the other one trying to...

Looks like something has either seized, or popped out/snapped off/broken, inside the light unit. Does anyone have any idea what is likely to be the culprit?

BOF3

11
"Should I be concerned?"

No. Diesels (and for that matter petrol engines) mostly overfuel at least a little on hard acceleration under heavy load, which gives out black smoke, and the older, more tired, and further off perfect tune  the fuel system, the more they smoke. The same applies to petrol cars, but the smoke is light grey, so not so noticeable.

BOF

12
Vectrix... is electrix....but not a car; it's a scooter

13
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Re: Oil level checking
« on: 02 October 2012, 04:42:48 PM »
Uses very little oil between changes - I put in the recommended amount (of 5W40 full synth sl/CF or better), and it drops a little - less than half a litre - by the next change, which is usually at about 3000 miles done (every six months, not on mileage).

You're right about the dipstick - it's only the cap that moves down when it is screwed down, not the dipstick. I used to know that, but I guess I forgot...

BOF

14
Classic Saab 9-5 (MY 1998-2010) / Oil level checking
« on: 21 September 2012, 02:39:42 PM »
'03 9-5 Aero. Is the oil level meant to be checked with the dipstick fully screwed home, or just resting against the spring? I've always done it with it just against the spring, which must be a fail-safe, but is it right?

BOF

15
"My son does that with Scoobies in his Glanza." Sounds an absolute hoot, but oh, puh-lease...

Touch of the rose-tinted specs there?  Maybe the Subaru wasn't trying too hard, or maybe it was a  less powerful version with aftermarket kn**head bodykit, as driven by people who don't know which way round to wear a baseball cap.

Even if the Glanza (never heard of it before, but I have now) has 4WD, which model of M3, exactly, does it beat off the line? That much power from so small an engine suggests a big turbo, which implies lots of turbo lag.... which is not good for getting off the line fast.

There's one on Pistonheads at the moment (yes, I've been digging a little) claiming 214 bhp and a TD04. On a 1.3 engine. You'd have time to make a cup of tea between full pedal and the turbo coming in...

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