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Throttle body. Common fault as it ages. It will clear if the battery is disconnected, but will probably return. May be ignored as long as the car runs OK.

It looks like one of the bolts that secure the cam cover (rockerbox) but they are a bit longer. As you say, it has been off the car for a very long time.

Might have been been dropped into the bottom of one of the plastic trays under the car a good many years ago during a service, replaced and only just found it's way out.

Thanks. I will try the locking next time - not too sure if there is anything that can be done with the 'time out' on the alarm system - but pretty sure that if the auto switch does not make a good contact, the engine will not turn over.

There are three cassettes listed on Carpartsconnexion - cheapest is £215, but at least you know that they should be genuine.

I would confirm what Audax is saying about the sprockets on the balance shaft mechanism. Normally affects engines at about 100k miles. First signs are very small pieces of metal in the old oil after an oil change. I soldered a 12v halogen bulb onto a pair of wires are dropped it down into the well of the timing chain to look at mine.

84K seems rather low for chain issues. Are you sure it is coming from the timing chain and not the big ends? Very difficult to detect such noises coming from a running engine - I speak from experience! Have you done the sump drop?

Thanks Chris. I am very near Southampton, but have to cross the most expensive strip of water in the world - the Solent! One of the reasons I have not sought the dealer's help before. Last time I had an intermittent fault (9000SE), they first changed a part costing about £100 + labour, then when it made no difference, had it there for a few days and reported "suspect ECU". Have not bothered since.

I am checking the fuel pump and must have a very quite unit. However, it has kicked in every time I have turned the key, so far!

OK. You have convinced me to look at the fuel pump, but I have always pulled the fuse (7?) whenever I wanted to do a compression test or take out the injectors etc. and then started the car to clear the fuel. It normally fires up for a few seconds.

It would be a lot easier if it just refused to start every time!

No, I cannot hear the pump, but there is always some pressure in the system which would make the engine start, even if it is only for a few seconds. I tried swapping relays etc. and there are some large Maxi fuses in the engine bay which were very dirty. I cleaned them and once again thought the problem had been rectified, but no! The ignition switch was the last hope.

I am now thinking a faulty ECU or DICE, but even if I take it over to Southampton to the main dealer, I doubt whether they would be able to confirm it one way or another without changing the parts.

No, I have not tried that. It's not that easy with such a complicated air inlet. Would be worth trying if it continuously failed to start.

Yes, the starter turns the engine as normal. It just does not fire up. Very much the same as if the CPS had failed. It has been much the same for as long as I have had the car (about 3 years) and the plugs have been changed twice. At first, the effort used to drain the battery, so I bought a new and better one.

I am 'back to the drawing board' with the occasional poor starting! Last thing I replaced was the ignition switch - clearly it was OK and the old one is listed on 'parts' if anyone wants to eliminate the switch from a similar problem. The car is only used a couple of times a week and 75% of the time, starts straight away. When it fails to start first time, I need to attempt to start it four or five times, with a pause in between.

After switching the DI packs with the spare, the first thing I replaced was the CPS. Then temp. sensor, MAF sensor (I have a spare) various relays and fuses. Then of course, the ignition switch.

Any ideas?

What's that about confidence before a fall? Turbos are very finely balanced. Chances are that it will fail in a big way when you put your foot down on a motorway as you have no doubt upset this fine balance. Apart from that, it is probably leaking oil into the exhaust, which will poison the cat. I would think about sending it away for a rebuild while it is still possible to salvage it.

Sorry to put a dampner on it and I could be wrong!

Just replaced the ignition switch. It is a completely different animal to that on the earlier model, but looks like it might come apart for cleaning. I bought the whole part - mechanical and electrical - but choose the easier option of just replacing the electrical part. If anyone wants the new mechanical part, I am about to list it on 'parts for sale'. I will include the old electrical part which is a 'suspect' for the occasional poor starting!

Now 3 weeks after using the Cataclean product, the first line has dropped back to 9030 - which is worse than ever - and almost 10% below the minimum of 10000 set by Saab. The second and third lines are still OK and there is no improvement in MPG. Conclusion: Use of Cataclean might get you through an MOT if the emissions are close to the limits, but effect does not last.

If I ever find out what the TiDs and CiDs are, I will let you know. Better still does anyone out there know what they are?

Here they are again:

TiD 0x19 CiD 0x00 manufacturer defined test ID Value 9030  min. 10000  -  FAIL

TiD 0x1A CiD 0x00 manufacturer defined test ID Value 10127  min. 10000 -  PASSED

TiD 0x1A CiD 0x01 manufacturer defined test ID Value  1450   max. 8000 -  PASSED