Driver's Window has suddenly decided not to work.

[johnr]

I went to clean the window glass of my MY2004 Vector 2.2TiD this morning inside and out.
When I tried to drop the driver's window to clean the edges (all the other windows worked fine) it did not move.
Neither up nor down. Even the fob only lowers the other three windows.
Where should I look for the problem?

John

[sgould]

When this sort of thing happens to our car, my first port of call is to undo the connector in the door hinge and spray the contacts with cleaner.  Then check that there is power etc. there. Should be if the door locks work, but theres a signal cable to the door module  (part of the switch pack).

If that doesn't work you will have to get the door panel off and check the wiring to the motor.

[johnr]

Thanks sgould,
All the other window switches work, so I'll try the switch cleaner.
I have some electrolube aerosol contact treatment Oil 2AX. Will that do it?

[sgould]

I'm not sure.  i just use the Maplins contact cleaner. Is the spray with lube for switches?  I would probably not use it as it will reduce friction and just putting the pis in and out in a "dry" state might improve the contact by cleaning any surface corrosion.

The problem with the door connectors was that the gripping force of the female connectors gets slack.

[johnr]

Yes the spray is a lubricant for switches.
I have removed and replaced the door connector several times - all switches and locking etc worked each time but not the driver's window.
So, what is the correct procedure to remove the door panel? Do I need special tools? Any 'nasties' to watch out for?

Thinking on...what is the worst case scenario given these symptoms?

[sgould]

Worse case is a new motor.  Although Saab show the motor and winding mechanism as one item, but they are available separately.  Next worse is the door module.

To get the door card off, you need to lever off the face of the door pull.  This reveals two screws at the bottom of the tubes of the pull.  Undo.  Pull off the plastic bit over/around the door mirror switch. Then lever off the card around the bottom - just poppers.  Lift out of window hole.

The door handle is clipped to the operating cable.  Unclip and unhitch.  Then unplug the loom.

The "nasty" is the waterproof membrane.  It's glued on.  In hot weather it can be gently pulled off.  In cold weather I trimmed it with a sharp knife.  But it's important to keep it whole and then you can reuse it.  If it's left off, the door card will get wet and rot.

Lots of random pictures here:  http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/sjgould2002/library/9-3SS%20window%20lift?sort=2&page=1

And here:  http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/sjgould2002/library/9-3SS%20Door%20lock?sort=2&page=1

[johnr]

The "nasty" is the waterproof membrane.  It's glued on.  In hot weather it can be gently pulled off.  In cold weather I trimmed it with a sharp knife.  But it's important to keep it whole and then you can reuse it.  If it's left off, the door card will get wet and rot.

What do you use to reattach the membrane if you've cut it?

[sgould]

Forgot!!

Have you checked for power and earth at the door hinge?  In the picture H13-1 is the door hinge connector.

Red and red/grey are power (battery and ignition)  The other pins are earths.  There is also the I-Bus wire.

702 is the door module, which includes the window switches in the door.

703 is the steering column unit

164 is the window motor - which depends on whether you have comfort close or not.

[sgould]

Post crossed.  I have stuck it back with the existing glue.  It's quite thick, almost like bath sealant.