Xenon headlamp levelling - help

[dave225]

I've got the dreaded warning lamp on and both lamps going to low position as they emit a juddering sound.
Does anyone know their way round the system? Am I right in assuming the only inputs are the front and rear "load angle sensors"?
I've already assumed because both lamps do the same thing, that problem is in the control system - not the headlamp units themselves.
I've looked at both sensors - connectors seem un-corroded but I WD40'd them for good measure. Rear one has smooth action, but the front one was a little bit rough in places - hard to be sure.
Is there a way to check the function of the sensors off the car with a multimeter for example?
At £60 ea and F/ R are different I don't feel like buying one or the other unless I know which is gone - if any?
Any advice?

Regds Dave (who now feels like he wants to buy a car he can fix without a £10k computer)

[Steve440]

When I had trouble with mine I found the sensors were OK but it was the wire than linked the front sensor to the loom. The wire was available ex stock when Saab were still alive as I was told it was a common problem.

If you disconnect the crank from the suspension and put the lights and ignition on you should be able to simulate the suspension movement by moving the rod and see the light move.

You might find by moving the arm it will clean the contacts up. If nothing happens I suggest you look at the wiring.

If you can get the the lights to move to the correct level pull the plug on the sensors and mine stayed there but just put the warning  light on until I got the new wire

I agree with your comment about the computer to fix a car, I hear horror stories everyday about what it costs to fix what used to be common problems. Renault's now need to go to a dealer to reset the handbrake after new shoes have been fitted or it will stay on. What was wrong with a cable?

Steve

[Audax]

I agree with your comment about the computer to fix a car, I hear horror stories everyday about what it costs to fix what used to be common problems. Renault's now need to go to a dealer to reset the handbrake after new shoes have been fitted or it will stay on. What was wrong with a cable?

I disagree with that, the labour saved by having computers more than covers the cost of the initial outlays to get the equipment. I'd much rather have a modern car than an old one as modern ones are way easier to work on and diagnose, I hated working on classic 900's for example as they had such annoying problems which would require pretty much resorting to guess work to fix! A genuine Tech-II doesn't cost £10k either!

[CitTone]

Anyone know if it is possible to strip the sensors down, or are they sealed for life (or death)? My lights are currently doing exactly the same.

Also, the warning light seems to go on and off for no apparent reason, and at no specific time interval - WTF that about, then?

[dave225]

I was over dramatic. It seems Tech-II's are a only pleasing £1200 each ??...............half that and I might have considered it.
My MoT man was telling me some modern car needed to be plugged in to wind the caliper pistons back electrically just to fit new rear pads - AND - you had to connect a battery charger in case the battery couldn't manage it. (It had an electric handbrake). 

[ScarbSaab]

Anyone know if it is possible to strip the sensors down, or are they sealed for life (or death)? My lights are currently doing exactly the same.

Also, the warning light seems to go on and off for no apparent reason, and at no specific time interval - WTF that about, then?

It looks unlikely that you would get one apart to repair it. This is the inside of my failed front sensor:

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i388/scarbsaab/Angle%20Sensor/DSC_0056_zpsc06e95b0.jpg

My guess is that the track wear alters the resistivity and it goes out of range. In theory you could make one if you knew how it processed the data, but it would be a real pig assemble.

[Steve440]

My MoT man was telling me some modern car needed to be plugged in to wind the caliper pistons back electrically just to fit new rear pads - AND - you had to connect a battery charger in case the battery couldn't manage it. (It had an electric handbrake).

This was the point I was making about Renault needing to go back to dealers to reset the handbrake, totally unnecessary. A cable and a lever work well for a 100 years and its not even needed for hill start so they cant make that excuse.

I agree they must help fault diagnosis especially with modern electronics but they seem to be fitting over complication just to keep you going back to them.

Steve
 

[Audax]

This was the point I was making about Renault needing to go back to dealers to reset the handbrake, totally unnecessary. A cable and a lever work well for a 100 years and its not even needed for hill start so they cant make that excuse.

Universal wind back tools that plug into OBD-II are available now.

My grandad used to say modern cars were too complicated and you couldn't fix them any more, and that was in the early 1950's so I just don't subscribe to the mind set that modern cars are more or less difficult in the past.

[Steve440]

Universal wind back tools that plug into OBD-II are available now.

Apparently they dont work on Renault's, main dealer only.

Steve

[ScarbSaab]

This was the point I was making about Renault needing to go back to dealers to reset the handbrake, totally unnecessary. A cable and a lever work well for a 100 years and its not even needed for hill start so they cant make that excuse.

Universal wind back tools that plug into OBD-II are available now.

My grandad used to say modern cars were too complicated and you couldn't fix them any more, and that was in the early 1950's so I just don't subscribe to the mind set that modern cars are more or less difficult in the past.

I know that STT threads almost invariably descend into the pre-war reminiscences of you guys...

but getting (approximately) back to the topic dave225 wanted help with...are there any non-Tech-II tools which can calibrate the Xenon headlamp alignment after changing a sensor?

[Steve440]

I am sure doing it by the book its need's calibrating but when I replaced mine I just bolted it on and it all worked as it should.

Steve

[sgould]

Yes, I think the Tech2 advice is for calibration, not "marrying".  If that's the case, you can fit a new one and if the calibration is a bit out, you can adjust the whole thing manually using the screw adjusters.

[ScarbSaab]

Yes, I think the Tech2 advice is for calibration, not "marrying".  If that's the case, you can fit a new one and if the calibration is a bit out, you can adjust the whole thing manually using the screw adjusters.

I'd wondered about tweaking the screws, but I thought it only had a few turns of adjustment before you risk damaging the mechanism? Or was that side to side for continental driving? Now the car is sitting level again, I must get the headlamp alignment done.

[sgould]

I twiddled mine a fair bit and they still work.  This one and the 2002 car.  I've heard the same about the number of turns.  I've never found any confirmation of this on a Saab document.  But I might have missed it!!

On the Dame Edna the headlamps and adjustments are a bit different, but the adjustment for Continental Driving on some is 20 turns sideways!! 

[sgould]

No mention of "marrying", just calibration...