Edna non OEM head unit integration

[fka]

Mouser have a number of these Molex connectors but they're board mounted. I could make it work but need to look at the datasheets and measure the current socket sizes. Both left and right connectors on the head unit are unique.. Getting close though..

http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Molex/34690-0160/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKrNet8BGwVLLDNNUim2%252bc1w%3d

[sgould]

Have a look at www.justcarkits.co.uk  They may still do a kit for fitting a Parrot 9000 series music streaming kit in a 9-5 with the three 16 pin connectors.  It probably won't be much use as a harness but it could have the correct three connectors (although you only really need two as the third connector does the CD boot changer, which will be useless without the Saab head unit, and the telephone connection - equally useless after a head unit change.

[sgould]

Hmmmm! Bit expensive if all you can do is cut the connectors off!!

https://www.justcarkits.co.uk/acatalog/saab26tel.html#SID=129

But it might be worth checking to see if it does any other bits.  Or give the guys a ring.  They were very helpful when I fitted the Parrot a while back.  But that was superseded by the Kenwood install, and I couldn't find any connectors at the time.  If I could have, I would have bought them. But that was four year ago...

[Audax]

Mouser have a number of these Molex connectors but they're board mounted. I could make it work but need to look at the datasheets and measure the current socket sizes. Both left and right connectors on the head unit are unique.. Getting close though..

http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Molex/34690-0160/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKrNet8BGwVLLDNNUim2%252bc1w%3d

I had a look and came to a similar conclusion that they look like they may be "molex stac64" connectors, they seem to do a few in different colours which would maybe match the connectors on the head unit. If you do find the right items please post the manufacturer part numbers here so other people can find them.

[fka]

Will do!
I got as far as Molex's site last night and looked at their full range of stac64, the male sockets are all board mounted. I'd have to see one but I think it might be possible to solder to the pins and isolate them with heat shrink. I think the crimp housing type must be aftermarket. I might just have to get cheeky and start phoning round the loom suppliers and see if they'll tell me who supplies them. Problem is most of the websites selling harnesses don't appear to make them up themselves. I thought Connects2 were making the cables up as they are trade only, but from their initial response to my question I'm doubting that.

[fka]

Got as far as speaking to the guy who runs justcarkits, that you recommended sgould. Really informative chat and he's actually put me in two minds. He recommends using the speaker level outs and preamp, as from experience has found that line out RCAs are rarely properly isolated, especially on the Android head units that I'm looking at.
He didn't have the connectors in stock and would make me one up using the line outs and RCAs but would have to salvage the connectors off an existing loom. Said he couldn't remember the manufacturer off the top of his head and would have to look them up. I didn't push it any further as I got the firm impression the answer would be no 

If I decide to use the speaker outs then this is the cable, slightly cheaper than the one you linked sgould, would do it. Doesn't have the cabling for the 3rd connector carrying phone and CD changer, which would be redundant..

https://www.justcarkits.co.uk/acatalog/ICT20280-Active-adaptor-Saab-9-3-9-5-2005-onwards-facelift-models-Denso-SatNav-with-3-x-16-pin-connectors.html#SID=11

Anyway, food for thought..

[sgould]

Hmmm!

I wish that something like that had been available four years ago!!

[phoenix]

Speakers is not a bad way to go, but really to do it properly you should still use an isolating TX (although you can sometimes get away with just the resistors) in which case just use the line outputs and an isolating TX. There's plenty of cheapo two channel in a can ones around but if it were me I'd use something like the Neutrik NTE1 (actually I used something much more expensive on mine, but only because I had them hanging around).


https://www.rapidonline.com/Avlink-201-086-Ground-Loop-Isolator-35-4561?IncVat=1&pdg=kwd-342191785812:cmp-757438067:adg-44804851896:crv-207912323492:pid-35-4561&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrcPup5Gf1gIVUBDTCh2QbgnMEAQYBCABEgJABvD_BwE

https://www.first-av.co.uk/neutrik-audio-transformer-1-1-nte1.html?source=googleps&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5uGKk42f1gIVCxbTCh0XQAKbEAQYBCABEgLLN_D_BwE

[fka]

Thanks Mark

The AvLink isolator is much cheaper than the Maplin offering I linked in the first post, no surprise!
And the Neutrik, isn't too expensive, guess I'd need 4 though, front L+R, rear L+R? And if I went with the harness that's using speaker outs and variable resistors, the the transformer could be placed inline after the resistor?

I'm going to have to call back and ask what's actually in the 'Amplified sound system interface' box, it's possible there's already isolators in there?

Cheers

[fka]

Confirmed that the output from the 'Amplified sound system interface' box on the justcarkits loom is isolated.
I think I'm going to have to go with that as a solution.
CPC have the Neutrik Audio Transformer Nte1 Connector, so 4 have been added to our next delivery anyway, to be used if necessary ..

[fka]

Received the harness from justcarkits today.
There's no branding on the 16 pin connectors so I'm afraid I can't give any more clues on where to find them.

The 'Amplified sound system interface' seems to be reasonably well constructed with 4 audio transformers. No idea of their branding either but as I've also ordered the Neutrik transformers, if they're not up to much I'll use the un-populated line out pins and put the Neutrik transformers in line.

Now I just need to decide which head unit to buy..

[GeoffW]

I already have an Alpine head unit wired into my @02 Aero which uses an ISO to ISO amplifier integration unit (head unit speaker outs going through transformers/resistor networks to pre-amplifier inputs).

Looking at it, it's the same unit as you're going to fit. Works OK but from an audio quality perspective isn't the best approach - you're putting the audio signal through an average performance power amplifier in the head unit which adds a small amount of distortion and noise before you then attenuate it and put it into the 9-5's decent quality amplifier setup.

If anyone's looking at putting together their own loom, try

• for the housings - https://incartec.co.uk/category-listing/42
• for the terminal crimps - https://incartec.co.uk/category-listing/41

I'm looking at an alternative approach for using the pre-amp outs and will report back once I've tried it

[fka]

Hi Geoff

Thanks for the links.
I don't think any of those sockets correspond with either the 14 pin or 16 pin connectors on the 06> head units, and I don't want to cut the existing wiring.

I totally hear you regarding using the speaker outs from the head unit, it makes no sense to me, but for the sake of giving myself an easy life I'm prepared to give it a shot.
Do you have the 4 pots (variable resistors) on the harness you're using? If you have some peak distortion maybe you just need to wind the pots back a little?

If it is no good then I'll just cut the harness I've bought, put the neutrik isolators in line with RCAs an use the head unit line outs.

I'm also not expecting too much audio quality wise from an Android head unit. I'm more interested in the features like reverse camera and AV outs so I can shove a second monitor on the back of my seat for the little fella to watch Peppa Pig - or whatever he's obsessing over at the time 

[GeoffW]

As you say, the '06 onwards harnesses use a totally different connector to earlier 9-5s which use standard ISO connectors, one 10 way and two 8 way ones (power and audio) with polarising tabs so you can't accidently swap the two 8 ways over.

The pots are present on my adaptor (it's the same one as yours, just badge engineered). Make sure you wind them down to zero before you power up else you'll seriously overload the amplifier inputs and maybe blow the amp's input stage up on first turn on.

Mine are still wound down pretty low once all was set up - the biggest issue was getting the levels set so everything was nicely balanced up.

[fka]

Thanks for the tip! I'll report back once I get round to installing..