Edna non OEM head unit integration

[fka]

I received my head unit today, went for this one from Eonon. Trying to cut down on cost so settled for Android 6.1, although annoyingly they've just released a unit running 7 for not too much more..

http://www.eonon.com/Android-Car-GPS/2-Din-GPS-Navigation/GA2164.html

Just reading one of you posts on uksaabs sgould http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=161931 where you talk about tapping into the SID socket for steering wheel control. Just looking at WIS and I see the socket coming from the steering wheel is a bit more accessible. Is there any reason one couldn't tap into that?

Cheers

[sgould]

As far as I'm aware you can tap into the wire anywhere along its length.  Just double check that you have the correct wire!!  I can't check at the moment because my copy of Vista is showing a "fatal error" and I need to do a complete re-install!

[fka]

Indeed, some double, tripple checking will be going on I'd say..

[fka]

Sorry I should really have started a new thread for this head unit lark, maybe it can be moved later if needs be.

For steering wheel control, the head unit I have has 3 connectors; Key1, Key2 and GND. With Key1 and 2 both producing 5V.
The SID is supplying 5V to the network of resistors/ switches in the steering wheel.

If I break into the socket coming from (going to) the steering wheel from the SID with the GND and Key1 from the head unit, then that's 2x 5V supplies in parallel, thus an increase in current.

This wont affect the head unit as it has a learning mode, however this will screw with the voltage measured by the car for the SID controls and horn as it will be larger through each of the resistors. Will I need to put a resistor in series on the + to the steering wheel to rectify this?

[phoenix]

It's not as simple as that. Saab's method of controls relies on different resistances, producing different voltages whereas it sounds like the head unit is giving two 5V TTL outputs that want to be pulled to ground to activate them. It needs some electronics inbetween the two...

Switch Voltage (V) Resistance (Ohms)
Horn              0             0
VOL -           1.3           31
VOL +          1.7           70
SRC   )         2.1         120
Arrow up      2.5         187
Arrow down  2.9         280
NXT             3.3         420
i-SET           3.7         652
CLR             4.1       1116

[fka]

Hi Mark

I read a couple of your comments on Saab Central (I think).
From what I understand about the head unit, you can use 1 or both of the Key signals, it's flexible, dependent on what setup the vehicle manufacturer has used for the steering wheel controls. The learning mode of the head unit involves selecting a key to program, then pressing and holding the corresponding button on the wheel until the head unit has 'learned' the voltage it receives when the button is pressed. So surely with this type of head unit there's no need for a CANBUS decoder or similar?

**edit** I hear what you're saying about the head unit putting out TTL, I've just emailed their support to check.. **edit**

Cheers
Dave

[fka]

Still haven't had a definitive answer from Eonon however this is what I've gleaned so far:

-They actually refer to the key1 and key2 terminals as SWC 1 and SWC 2.
-The head unit is expecting an analogue signal
-From what I can see from their demo video, their mock-up switch panel mirrors the 9-5 steering wheel switches bar the fact there's an additional switch in series with the bank of parallel switches giving        the 3rd terminal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0X7FzjCH1Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LA_7mL2UdSc
-The write up from this guy who's installed a Pumpkin Android unit (All the Android units are fairly generic.) to his Evo (NON CANBUS, analogue out from the wheel buttons.) has only a GND and a single signal cable from the wheel. And confirms he's just used the GND and Key1 cable from the head unit and has working controls. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-electrical-audio-security/703368-android-double-din-radio-install-review-w-full-working-wheel-controls-no-adapter.html

I'm fairly confident this will work without a converter. Still the question remains, will it interfere with the signal going to the SID?

[phoenix]

I don't think it will matter if it does affect the signal going to the SID (other than reading values with Tech 2)- the only one it really uses is horn, which is a dead short.

[fka]

What about the buttons used to switch the SID? Especially if I end up with openSID and a combination of buttons are required to enter openSID?
My knowledge of electronic principles is GCSE at best. But thinking again about my comment regarding an increase in current with the two 5V supplies connected in parallel across the button/resistor network - I'm guessing that's wrong as the load is unchanged, therefore the current will remain the same. The real issue being if the 5V supply from the head unit deviates enough from 5V to through the voltages received by SID out beyond acceptable limits??

Guess it's just a matter of trying it out and see what happens..

Cheers

[fka]

Looking at the attached it's actually the horn/switch plug 336b I need to tap into for steering wheel control.
It's the violet/white cable of 336b that goes to the i-bus not the white/black of 663.

I guess it doesn't really matter which one I use but comments more then welcome before I start cutting cables.

[fka]

I've very much noted that this plug should be left well alone 

[fka]

Got the head unit in today. I've still to fit the boarder trim around the unit so will take a few pics tomorrow.
Everything working as expected. Spent a while balancing the pots on the pre-amp that's bringing speaker outs down to line level. I found the rears needed a little more level than the front 5.

Steering wheel controls are working, I tapped into the cables going to what I think is the 663 plug (which I think is the male side of 336b, however the cable colours don't match WIS. Either way it was plugged into 336b so is the correct socket.) as it was a bit more accessible than 336b (pic attached).
I've only programmed volume up/down and previous/next track but they are working well.

Managed to route the mic and Wifi antenna up the A-pillar. Wifi cable is a bit short but it just about reaches to the rear view mirror, cable hidden under the head lining, pics to follow.

1 issue that may prove to be problematic or may be nothing.
I noticed a "CLEARED" message pop up on the SID a few times with an accompanying bong, when I was playing around with the head unit. It was just after I'd reconnected the battery so may be linked to that as I didn't see it after firing up the engine. Have to keep an eye on that.

And 1 unexpected issue, when I took the cowling off the steering wheel 2 small white pieces of plastic dropped out. Turns out they are off the back of the indicator stork assembly and seem to act as a spring/ spacer against the cam on the wheel that cancels the turn signal. I thought I'd somehow broken it but my Mrs thinks she's had a couple of instances where the indicator has been dicky, so I think it was already broken.
Pic attached - any thought's? I was contemplating gluing the two bits of plastic back on ut they look very flimsy..

[fka]

Oh - I didn't realise the radio antenna was a mini DIN type, so I'm yet to connect it. I was tempted to cut it and fit a standard size DIN but having gone this far without cutting anything I'll wait and order a converter..

And I' haven't conncted the ilumination cable to light the head unit when the headlights are on, need to investigate first..

[fka]

Pics attached of the unit, wifi antenna and where I've located the USB sockets in a button blank.
I'm really not happy with the facia and bezel. It's the connects2 kit with cage that I picked up used from fleebay for £15.
Firstly the colour is off and secondly the bezel doesn’t fit. I've already trimmed it (poorly) but still the prongs that latch it into the cage and thus hold the head unit in place, are too short.
I can always spray the facia and try and find a correctly sized bezel (178x100mm). Either way it needs working on..
Similar vein, I'm going to look for some kind of facia for the USB sockets, that I can glue over the top to tidy it up.

The "CLEARED" message appearing on the SID is a problem. I've discovered the 2 switch lines from the head unit are producing 1.8v and 3.5v, not the 5v advertised! There is obviously interference that the SID is interpreting into some combination of button presses. The only way I can really see it working is if the head unit were supplying the same 5v as the I-BUS or were passive i.e just measuring the voltage returned from the switch network, supplied only by the I-BUS.
I'll contact the manufacturer again but I'm not holding up much hope on this to be honest.

I've left the ILLUMI cable. It would normally go to the headlight switch so the buttons light up and the display dims when the headlights are on. As I always drive with the headlights on this would be pointless. There's an option on the heac unit to close this circuit so the buttons are always lit.

The indictor stork - Well seems there's quite a few topics on this on the various forums. Some suggesting a salvaged part. That's fine but a fair few of the salvaged storks advertised on fleebay and neos are broken, even the one on Neo's site (big surprise..) has one of the prongs broken off http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/indicator-stalk-with-cruise-saab-9-5-06-09-black-8502-p.asp
 Obviously a common point of failure so I've decided to try gluing with some epoxy. Will let you know who it goes..

[sgould]

That fascia kit is terrible!

I had a mess around with combinations.  There was a final push-in trim piece that came with the fascia kit, and another that came with the head unit.  I think there was another on floating about somewhere else...

It ended up looking like this...