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Messages - antonyn

#1
Ahh - don't worry, I used a generic term - the actual product I use when assembling rubber parts is "Dow & Corning Plumba grease" as it is designed for o-ring assembly.

BTW - Oil is a petroleum product - is that why the seal failed in the first place?

#2
So - for those who are interested, the "core plug" has a rubber outer covering. So I used a nail extractor (like the claw end of a hammer, but in screwdriver form) to ease out the old plug.
A smear of vasiline on the new one, and carefully drove it in using a socket. "Carefully" because there is no lip to stop it going right through!!

Antony.
#3
Hi,

I've a leak on the 204L petrol engine, from the plug that fills the hole used for a distributor on earlier engines. On my last Saab, it was a matter of replacing the o-ring on the plug, which was held in by a bolt and bracket, but now the plug looks more like a interference fit "core plug".

Has anyone had experience of changing this type and if so, how did you get it out, & do you have to use any type of sealant when you fit the new one?

(BTW the EPC drawing still looks like the old plug!)

Antony.
#4
I've seen a comment in the past that you shouldn't replace the tube that goes to the Absolute Manifold Pressure sensor. It is sensitive to the tube length and diameter.
But can't confirm that, so might be an old wives mechanics tale.

When I replaced all my tubing, I just did one at a time! Would love to have a diagram, but not seen one - perhaps you can draw one based on your experience!!  :D

Antony.
#5
What about the Pressure Regulator on the end of the Injector rail? Does that have a check function as well?

Does the long crank happen with a cold engine, or just warm? The symptoms of a leaky Pressure Regulator (leaking into the manifold via the vacuum tube)  can be the same as a check valve failure when the engine is warm.


Antony.
#6
If you want to convince yourself - do an acceleration trial on a straight road, then do the same run without the airfilter connected.

I bet you can't measure the difference (assuming you change your element regularly and haven't let it block up)

Antony.
#7
I had to have my gearbox rebuilt, so while they were in there, I had a Quaife automatic torque biasing (ATB) helical gear limited slip differential (LSD) fitted.
http://www.quaife.co.uk/differentials


The results are unbelievable - this does what a FWD should do - literally drags me around the corners! I'll need to get it onto a Race Track to find the limits - I can't (safely) on the road anymore!
Forget the bulkhead/clamp/arb/subfame upgrades - they made an insignificant improvement compared to the LSD, although I expect they add to the accuracy of steering now required.

Only issue is having to wind the car back out after the corner, as it loses self-centering under power. (sort of benign torque steer)

It's starting to feel like my 9000 used to (apart from the power).

Oh, and did I mention the Hybrid turbo, uprated ECU mapping, sports exhaust, lowered & uprated suspension and wider wheels?
My car ownership principle is simple, every time something fails, replace it with something better  :)

Antony.
#8
I had this symptom on my 9-3 - no obvious fluid loss, so thought it was the Master.

Replaced the Master (a job for a contortionist) , bled the system - seemed to be repaired, until my next ~30 mile journey proved it was the Slave!

Issue was that the fluid loss from the Slave was replaced by air - so the level didn't drop anymore, no matter how much pedal work was invoked!
So next time I would bleed the system and watch very carefully for fluid leaks under the car after reasonable use.

Antony.
#9
If you can't get a 2nd hand gearbox, then you can always get it rebuilt at Abbott Racing.

Mind you I spent £2300 on my rebuild, but it did include a LSD, clutch  and all the syncromesh hubs!!

Try searching for the Gearbox no on ebay - I saw a 2nd hand FM55 507 for £125 - trick is to search for "saab FMnn"  (where nn are the matching numbers on your gearbox), that normally finds all the suitable gearboxes.

Last digit (7 in the example above)is a revision, normally you can use a later number if you can't find the exact match.


Antony.
#10
Under a tenner  >:( - not new it isn't!  Saab lifted over £60 off me for that item, and it failed within a month!

Now bought 2nd hand for £7 and it has lasted longer than the new one.

Antony.
#11
Must admit I was put off buying a '10 plate Aero V6 the other day, I looked at the Tax Disk and saw £950!! Cough, Splutter!!


My new approach is to buy a LPT and then uprate it, as the tax doesn't change for conversions!!


BTW I don't think that retrospectively changing the emissions would work, as the DVLA only use the manufaturers published model information. I added LPG to my 93, but it isn't accepted for a lower tax band. DVLA stated that only LPG conversions from the factory counted, as there is a manufacturers spec sheet published.

Antony.