F?@*%$£ car fails yet again!

Started by Max Headroom, 25 December 2012, 11:49:47 PM

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Petemate

Good that you were able to speak to the bod doing the job. It does seem quite likely now that the switch is the culprit. Maybe the 'electric' burning smell is some wiring in the switch area connected (pun) with the problem, and if so, and it hasn't spread too far, I would imagine/hope (stand to be corrected of course) that those main wires will be standard stuff and not Canbus, therefore hopefully repairable.
It would seem that this problem has plagued the car from some time ago, considering that it has eaten several No 4 fuses already on a prior occasion!
Best of luck Mark.
Pete

nine-fiver

Ignition switches wear out on most cars after 10 years. If you think how many times a day you might use it to start the car, you might be surprised.  Contacts get sloppy, and sparking can easily send voltage spikes in all directions. Nice to know the battery is good. But you should be seeing at least 14.2 volts across the terminals, not 12.
On an Astra a few years ago, I had to get a small part of the wiring loom replaced and the dealer spent 4 hours diagnosing it and repairing. Clicky noises like you have and blown fuses too.
That sorted it, along with a fresh ignition barrel. Common problem in that car too.
Alternator was at risk too.
All the same GM stuff in these cars around that era.

Max Headroom

Quote from: Petemate on 28 December 2012, 09:58:08 AM
It would seem that this problem has plagued the car from some time ago, considering that it has eaten several No 4 fuses already on a prior occasion!

Nah it was the #8 fuse before. That just stopped the car dead. Only the tenacity of AA man fitting and blowing five in a row until one stuck cured the problem which has never reccured since.

You know, although water under the bridge now, a couple of weeks ago the ignition switch 'felt funny'. I can't explain in what way it felt funny - it just didnt feel the same, but at the time I thought it was just me, and it was only on th eone occasion, so maybe something inside had started to give up the ghost then. But even now with it in it's broken down state, the switch still felt okay.

Thanks for your inputs and comments. I'll let you know if there are any further developments  ??? ::)

Audax

I'd be surprised if it was solely the ignition switch if fuse 4 was blowing as the ignition switch only energizes the circuits beneath it via relays. Even so the ignition switch in the 9-3 is a bit of a weak point but they are at least cheap. Another common problem is that the wiring to the ignition switch where it's cable tied onto part of the under dash frame is that it wears through the insulation and causes shorts there.

Petemate

Quote from: Max Headroom on 28 December 2012, 11:59:30 AM

Nah it was the #8 fuse before.


Oops - sorry Mark



Quote from: Audax on 28 December 2012, 12:20:41 PM
I'd be surprised if it was solely the ignition switch if fuse 4 was blowing as the ignition switch only energizes the circuits beneath it via relays. Even so the ignition switch in the 9-3 is a bit of a weak point but they are at least cheap. Another common problem is that the wiring to the ignition switch where it's cable tied onto part of the under dash frame is that it wears through the insulation and causes shorts there.

That could well be it Audax - perhaps a switch plus a loom repair?

aerojon

Quote from: nine-fiver on 28 December 2012, 11:31:35 AMBut you should be seeing at least 14.2 volts across the terminals, not 12.

you only see 14v+ when the engine is running,which is the charging voltage.

the ism contains a circuit board..as it's more than just a switch.

Audax

Quote from: Petemate on 28 December 2012, 03:24:31 PM
That could well be it Audax - perhaps a switch plus a loom repair?

Possibly, it's all speculation on our part I'm just working off my understanding of the problem in hand and the wiring loom diagrams, it could well be something else. I just hope it isn't 1 switch, then a wiring loom repair and another switch to replace the new one that just got fried ;)

Max Headroom

Quote from: Audax on 28 December 2012, 12:20:41 PM
Another common problem is that the wiring to the ignition switch where it's cable tied onto part of the under dash frame is that it wears through the insulation and causes shorts there.

Yes I could quite understand that - particularly on a convertible that shakes around more  :(

nine-fiver

Astra switches were known to burn out. If someone could check the Vauxhall/Opel/Saab part numbers it would not surprise me to find it was the same switching unit. And they also went a bit 'funny' just before the spring-return let go, and the contacts then arcing out. Some even burnt badly enough to smoke out the cabin, with associated minor loom issues.
Which is why I sold mine.

Audax

Quote from: nine-fiver on 29 December 2012, 08:19:26 AM
Astra switches were known to burn out. If someone could check the Vauxhall/Opel/Saab part numbers it would not surprise me to find it was the same switching unit.

No, they're not the same, the ignition switch on the 9-3 is the entire unit where you put the keyfob into and twist. It's a complete unit as there's no separate barrel. 9-3 units don't burn out they just slowly break down over time. Having replaced more than my fair share I suspect that one common problem is soft drink spills and other detritus find their way into the unit and cause contact problems. I replaced a unit on one car that appeared to have an immaculate interior, as I removed more of the central console there was a thin layer of liquid oil behind every surface. I realised that it was cooking fat from McDonalds food when I looked in the glove box and found heaps of paper napkins and sauce cartons in there... despite the owner keeping the car clean it had still got behind every surface including the ignition switch  :o

Max Headroom


nigsy

I had more or less the same problem with mine, minus the blown fuse (I have an 05 2ltr Aero Turbo petrol). I had the same noise as you and also when bump started it would run perfectly but when trying to start with the key or a battery booster, no joy.

Replaced - battery, alternator, starter and ignition switch. My usual garage tried everything, my local SAAB dealership was a waste of time and just kept insisting it was the battery.

Got a dedicated car electrician to look at it in the end and he reckoned it was a faulty relay, and simply bypassed it with 6 inches and 50p worth of electrical wire and I've never had a problem since!!

Max Headroom

Struth - that sounds like it was an expensive diagnosis!

...At least until the 50 penceworth of cable!

Max Headroom

FINALLY!

...and this smacks of an inpending spares problem for SAABs...

The problem was the ignition switch which was duly cx'd. However a new one was unavailable! So a second hand one from a 3 month old vehicle was sourced.

Hopefully this car is not going to give me any further bother for some time - however I'm off to the Middle East for two months on the 22nd (more SAAB hunting in Bahrain) so won't be able to prove anything until my return.

Petemate

Glad it is now sorted Mark. But not good that a switch was unavailable. I've been trawling the 'net in various websites for Saab parts, both s/h and new/NOS, and there is quite a bit out there but some are silly prices.
I wonder if companies like Neo will up their game now - they were extremely useful and good VFM when my aircon went West. They have a lot of parts in stock.