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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: 9-5 NG Rescue project
« Last post by carrera on 18 May 2024, 11:15:44 PM »
Indeed  :thumbsup:

I took the drivebelt off & started the engine, which was a success as the noise disappeared.

However, spinning the alternator, steering pump and compressor by hand failed to produce any unexpected noises or feeling of worn bearings. I was quite surprised that there was no warning of a lack of alternator output until I blipped the throttle and then a dash warning came up "Service generating system" or something like that. A simple warning light would have been much preferred.

On reassembly the noise was still there, and as usual, it got quieter as the engine warmed up. Stethoscope on both of the new pulleys confirmed that it wasn't a case of duff new parts either.

With that done I decided it was time to get the car back on the road & give her a quick wash before I failed at anything else  ::)
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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: 9-5 NG Rescue project
« Last post by sgould on 18 May 2024, 09:12:58 PM »
... and my friend (with a Peugeot 2008) thinks I'm strange to work on my own cars "when you can take it to a garage where a mechanic will know how to do the work properly" :D
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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: 9-5 NG Rescue project
« Last post by carrera on 18 May 2024, 02:42:27 PM »
Oh, well, never mind let's see what treats are in store

First to come off was the tank tape for the centre section. Oh, where's the circuit board, where's the boards that have the inner LED's mounted  ???

This is looking bad, so lets'have a look at the outer LED mounts. Even worse, no casing exists, the hole is filled with sealant, the flexi strips are gone, wires are snipped and the weatherproofing is of such high standard that there's a good degree of moisture & rust in there.  >:(

The total on the invoice was £300, including £26 for two LED festoon bulb replacements (which I have already replaced with filament, as Saab specified)

I'll have to see if I can figure out a way to wire & fix some of the alternate LED's I have in place, with an appropriate resistor(s) to limit current and further LED failures, but that is not for today

To top it off, I replaced the tensioner pulley today and the drivebelt is still squeaking. Further investigation required. There's only alternator, steering pump & aircon compressor remaining to investigate, but nothing was obvious from first inspection
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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: 9-5 NG Rescue project
« Last post by carrera on 18 May 2024, 02:14:12 PM »
Today is going to be a less than successful day.

I decided to take a look at the light bar, with confidence that whatever the problem was I would be able to fix it. I mean, there's aven an invoice that says the light bar was removed, wiring was checked for burns / damage, then wiring repair made to harness an confirm wiring now OK. Followed by removal of the light bar again and carried out a further repair to stop it from working (apparently a BCM error was being triggered)

Removing the light bar showed this.

Someone has definitely been in here before, and I'm not sure about the quality of workmanship, as a part has been cut out that shouldn't have been  :-\

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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: Another Ng 9-5 joins the forum
« Last post by carrera on 17 May 2024, 11:29:22 PM »
Sauntering around the Saab EPC, I spotted that in the page for the turbocharger there was a support bracket that acts as a brace between the turbo and the engine.

That was missing on mine, so I got one from ebay off something called a Vauxhall Astra VXR  ;)

As the studs were also missing, a quick visit to Toolstation for some 10mm threaded bar provided the necessary fixing points.

The bracket is quite chunky, as though it has to take quite a lot of force, so I'm glad that I have fitted one, though because space is so tight, this involved removing the cat to allow sufficient access to put the brace between cat & block. Fortunately, all the nuts were clean and rust free, having just been fitted a few weeks ago

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I'm intrigued to know how anyone could know it had been as low as 5.5v, unless that is what it read when the AA man arrived

A fully charged battery should be 12.7 volts (disconnected, as especially on modern cars, without a proper ignition switch, circuits can become live from just opening the doors)

A "flat" battery is ~ 12.1 volts, but as I have found, the NG starts fine when the battery shows an indicated 12.15v. It's those live circuits

I have replaced the battery on the TTiD. Voltage seemed fine, but the cold cranking amp test showed it was on the weak side. The car now starts better & I have another emergency battery that is too good to weigh in, but not really reliable enough for going away on long journeys with

5.5V was what the AA guy said when he first checked it before using the booster to start the car.
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I seem to have generated a non-Saab job today.  While using my 50 year old Black & Decker Workmate today, it started to fall apart.  The wooden top pieces are attached with bolts that are just screwed into the wood.  The threads no longer grip, so when you try to use the top as a clamp they just ride up.   It will also allow me to put one of the boards on the right way around.  I must have got it back to front when I serviced it some years ago :roll:
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I'm intrigued to know how anyone could know it had been as low as 5.5v, unless that is what it read when the AA man arrived

A fully charged battery should be 12.7 volts (disconnected, as especially on modern cars, without a proper ignition switch, circuits can become live from just opening the doors)

A "flat" battery is ~ 12.1 volts, but as I have found, the NG starts fine when the battery shows an indicated 12.15v. It's those live circuits

I have replaced the battery on the TTiD. Voltage seemed fine, but the cold cranking amp test showed it was on the weak side. The car now starts better & I have another emergency battery that is too good to weigh in, but not really reliable enough for going away on long journeys with
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The first thing I would do is disconnect the battery and leave it for a few minutes.  This should reset the car electronics and hopefully remove any glitches.

Also read the manual/check online to find the exact meaning of the warning light.  It might be something to do with a low battery in the remote, but could be anything.

If you have a multimeter check the battery voltage.  You should see something approaching 14v on charge and a bit over 12v when standing.  I have had two batteries due recently and they were around 10v which is a clue to one cell failing.
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Yeah the mechanic collected the car, and brought it back at the end of the day.

Went out with my son in the car this evening for a blast down tbe M40 to Banbury and back. This car never ceases to amaze me. Considering it has 154k on the clock, and we have had the interior in pieces, and the tyres flatspotting in the garage since January, it has emerged triumphant, and feels surprisingly spritely, solid and comfortable..

It also seems to have less rust than my Aero. Only that horrendous lacquer peel on the front bumper lets it down. And I'm going to sort that anyway ;)
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