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Main Stealers can be quite uncooperative can't they... anyway, how did the MOT go ?

Drum roll.....
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Well after rebuilding the interior trim following sealing up the panel joints and cracked body sealant under the roof rails, I made a start on the peeling lacquer. I have got it all smooth now, but unfortunately some of the base coat came off too in the process.

I went to the Ford dealer to get the paint code, and they wouldn't give it to me, although they confirmed the colour name. They also confirmed it was discontinued and they couldn't supply aerosols etc. So off I went to our local Paintstore, who have been very good in the past when I've used them. They said the tango metallic was a standard Ford colour they could supply, but there were two or three slightly different shades, and ideally it would be good to bring the car to them so they could determine which one to mix up.

With number 1 son turning 18 yesterday, he has been desperate to get the car back on the road. So fixing the paint isn't the highest priority at the moment, getting the MOT, and then sorting tax and insurance is the important thing. So today, the car is in for MOT - we are desperately hoping it will pass, or at least need very little to get it through. But watch this space......

Once the car is running legally, I'll be back to Paintstore with it ;). In the meantime, whilst I was at Paintstore, I got some Saab 170 black made up for my Aero to hopefully have a go at painting an new aerial cover I have, and a front bumper spoiler ;) Got some plastic primer too for the aerial and bare bits of bumper we have on the Focus now  ::)
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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: Another Ng 9-5 joins the forum
« Last post by sgould on 13 May 2024, 11:39:02 PM »
Some of those are quite expensive!  But may seem cheap if Hedin come up with an "official" repair. 
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In that case I think you should consider staying in the passenger seat  ;)
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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: Another Ng 9-5 joins the forum
« Last post by carrera on 13 May 2024, 10:18:37 PM »
Lots of well engineered solutions here

https://hblom.se/produkt-kategori/ng9-5/

At a price

My brake light fix cost me £6, the first light bar about a tenner, with plenty of spares left over
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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: Another Ng 9-5 joins the forum
« Last post by sgould on 13 May 2024, 09:27:47 PM »
It's a shame that the 9-5 was a short lived model.  The light bar would surely have been improved as time went on.
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He probably could, but I'm planning to get under and apply a full underseal later.  Just no time this month for a longer job.  I won't be starting it before I get back from Trollhättan on 10th June.

The issue has been a bit more difficult today.  I cleared the codes on Friday.  OH has been using the car while I've been at Saab meets on Saturday and Sunday.  There's no code come back yet.  Not even a Pending code, and they were coming back almost immediately last week :roll:  Just a wait and see now.  The last time the codes went off for a period, it was two years before they returned...
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Those connectors are actually qute good at keepng water out, if I recall correctly, they look very similar to the OG9-5 connectors for the Lambda sensors & CPS

Can Joe just pull the connector off while it's being examined for the MOT. It'll save getting the lift equipment out for you, at least for that job.
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New Saab 9-5 (2010 on) / Re: Another Ng 9-5 joins the forum
« Last post by carrera on 13 May 2024, 07:18:49 PM »
The exhaust was welded up last night and fitted today, seems to be OK and not blowing, so those exhaust gases can get away a bit quicker now.

Next little job was to do the centre brake light. Quite a lot of the lights were out or dim, so this  is what I did:

Remove earth from battery
Lower rear seats
Remove 3 plastic retainers for the shelf trim
Pull forward the outer seat bolster froom the top
Remove the "Airbag" cover from the C panel covers, and remove the 7mm bolts - hence battery off
Pull off the door seal so that the trim section can be withrawn by pulling on the trim to withdraw the 3 locating clips of the C pillar
Unplug the electrical connector from the right hand side
Wiggle the trim cover off

Next is getting to the circuit board:

The light housing is secured with spring clips. The plastic holding the housing WILL break, so it will have to be screwed back together with a couple of self tappers
Pull the sticky tape off to release the cable & withdraw

On the workbency the plstic cover is removed by pressing on the 3 retining tabs from the back
The circuit board can then be withdrawn & examined.

There are 24 LED's, which seem to be grouped into 3's, with the polarity of the LED's following this pattern (1 - 12, counting from the cable end)

+ - + + - + + - + + - +

13-24 follow the same pattern

Handily the diode test on my meter not only gave the forward voltage, but also illuminated the LED's

In total I think I replaced 4, and reflowed one group of 3 which sometimes flickered. All you need is a basic soldering iron

Best include a link to the LED's https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185441246744

No photo's of the finished result (you know what a good one looks like anyway), but here's a photo of the components prior to reassembly







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I went down to Swedish Day and spoke to Joe, the mechanic who is doing theMOT and service next week.  He suggested that I shouldn't rule out a poor connection, so I went out to try and locate the connector on the front edge of the fuel tank.  I think i have found it, but I'm not sure.  It will only be readily accessible by removing the under tray and getting under the car.  The connector I have found looks exposed and ripe for a poor connection, but although it's in the right place and the blue/white wire in the end corner pin looks OK, there is no wire in the the adjacent hole.  Which is not matching the wiring diagram in WIS.

I won't have time to do a full check as I'm quite busy between now and the MOT time.  As long as the car passes, I will deal with it later. Get the car in the air and do the undersealing at the same time.  It looks like the underseal is needed
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